Powershot G7 strobe test shot

Discussion in 'Mirrorless Digital Cameras' started by david_manning|1, Jan 30, 2007.

  1. Hi Everyone, I bought a Powershot G7 as a compact travel camera when it's not logistically possible to travel with my D2x or F6. I've enjoyed learning about the G7, learning it's capabilities and weaknesses. I took this test shot with the G7 using two Nikon Speedlights off-camera and fired with a MicroSync wireless trigger in the hotshoe. The nice thing about the MicroSync is that it's very compact when you don't need range, and that really pays off with the rangefinder styling of the G7. The shot is, aside from resizing, straight out of the camera. I thought I'd pass along my delight at the power of this little camera. David.
  2. David,

    Nice shot. I recently bought a G7 as well for the same reason (D2X and D200). So far I'm very underwhelmed with the image quality, even at ISO 100. I'm still trying to learn my way around this thing though. Sure isn't as intuitive to operate as a Nikon, and the Canon manual is pretty much useless, IMO.

  3. Nice photo from the OP. I am getting wonderful output from the G7. Very intuitive to use.
    High rate of keepers that are easy to nail first time around. Live histogram is something I
    wish my DSLR had. Enlarged prints are where this camera comes into it's own. Simply
  4. I don't know if this photo will upload, but I'll give it a shot. Recent trip to Florida.
  5. Someday photographers are going t learn photography is about lighting and not cameras. Nikon and Canon will then go out of business.

    So you see how well you can do with some proper lighting. It is not the camera at all. Yea you need sheet film for large prints, but the G7 does fine for 8x10 and that is mostly what we need.
  6. Thanks for the nice responses. For what it's worth, I shot that at ISO 80. At that ISO, pictures are very clean. At ISO 200 and above (I admit to pixel-peeping during testing) I can see very slight noise reduction degradation of images on-screen. These are, fortunately, unviewable printed at 8x10. I haven't super-sized any images yet, although at full resolution and 240dpi, I would expect the same printed image quality at about 11x17 or so. So, if the ISO is kept reasonably low, the noise or artifacts are, in practical use (for me anyway), insignificant. It echoes film use more than we want to admit for a digital camera...the higher the ISO, the less clean and sharp the image (ever blow up 1600 ISO B&W? not so good, but flavorful). I got the camera to shoot travel stock instead of lugging a body, three lenses, and a strobe or two (I'm also an airline pilot and the lighter the load, the better). For professional stock usage, shots will be at low ISOs anyway. So, I'm satisfied. Paul, I'm also underwhelmed by the ergonomics...years of Nikon shooting (with, in my opinion, the best ergonomics of any camera system) have spoiled me. And...yep, the manual is terrible. Luckily, you can't break a camera by using different settings, so I just go out and shoot-shoot-shoot. For what the camera is, I enjoy it, and it has invigorated my desire to get it right the first time and think/visualize creatively. I'll probably shoot in the studio with a powerpack and the G7 in the next week, just for fun. By the way, for the comment about "it's all about lighting," ever pick up an American Cinematographer magazine? It's published by the ASC (American Society of Cinematographers)...well, I like moving pictures too. Whenever I pick an issue up to look for gearhead stuff, every article is about LIGHTING. My eyes glaze over reading about Moles and HMIs ad nauseam...however, they have it right..."It's the light, stupid!" Thanks for reading my post, now turn off the computer and go take pictures! (my wife's quote). ---Dave.
  7. Very nice, David. If I may ask, what Nikon speedlights did you use, and how did you
    connect the MicroSync receiver to one, what with its big jack?
  8. Hi Bernard,

    Thanks. I used an SB-600 for the hairlight and an SB-800 for the main. Both SBs were in
    manual mode at 1/8 power. The SB-800 was in SU-4 slave mode, and I had the remote
    wireless slave on the SB-600. The MicroSync came with a small cord that can run from the
    receiver to a mini-plug strobe (as opposed to the household plug-type end for a
    powerpack system). I simply inserted that mini-plug adapter into the SB-600 (via a Wein
    optical slave which isn't working optically, but has a plug on the side--about $35). Follow
    so far? (it sounds hobbled together...it's a bit more elegant than it sounds).

    So, the trigger on the G7's hotshoe fired the receiver on the SB-600. The flash triggered
    the SB-800 optically. Voila! Basically, using both expensive, sophisticated strobes as
    cheapo, dumb strobes. Manual camera settings set with a strobe meter...although just
    looking at the result in the LCD is probably both better and as-fast.

    Hope that helps.

  9. Thanks, David, I get it. But MY MicroSync didn't come with a PC cord. Not that I remember,
    anyway. And, any reason why you chose the SB-800 as the slave and the SB-600 as the
    main, instead of the other way around? After all, the SB-800 does have a PC sync outlet,
    and the SB-600 can fire in optical slave mode, right?
  10. Bernard, Call me slow, but I can't seem to find a way to fire my SB-600 optically, neither just pushing buttons through menus nor perusing the printed manual. Yes, via CLS, but not just basic SU-4 optically. If there is a way, PLEASE let me know how I missed it! In a single-light setup, the SB-800 is my go-to strobe, via PC-cord adapter as you mentioned. ---Dave.
  11. David, you are absolutely right, and you're not slow. I am. I can't find a way to use the
    SB-600 as an optical slave either. It didn't occur to me that I always used it in remote slave
    mode with the SB-800 as main and the D200 in "commander mode". However, I have this
    hotshoe, it is called a "Mini-cell" and it has both a "peanut" and a PC sync outlet. It triggers
    the SB-600 optically very well with the SB-800 as main. Try to get one.
  12. Yeah,

    The Wein optical trigger that I referred to is like that...a little hotshoe with an optical
    window or "bubble" and a small PC socket on the side. I've never been able to get it to
    trigger the SB-600 optically. Maybe someone can help me with that one...I'm beginning to
    think that optical is just not an option with that model. That's why I use the mini-PC cord
    that's about 6" long from the radio slave to the mini PC plug. If I could get it to work...it
    would open up a lot of flexibility for me.

    By the way, you're not slow either...these poorly-written manuals are written by engineers
    and then translated by second language-speaking secretaries!

  13. David,

    If the Wein hotshoe has a PC socket, you could buy an inexpensive "peanut" and just plug
    it in via a small lenght of PC sync cord. Then, your SB-600 could be optically triggered by
    the SB-800, and you could use the SB-800 as main.

    Yes, aren't those manuals generally awful? I think Nikon win hands down in the awful
    category with their manuals for speedlights. As an ailine pirlot, you must know a thing or
    two about manuals, yet even you can't find your way ;)
  14. Bernard,

    Honestly I'm not sure if the SB-600 can be optically triggered at all. The Wein unit that I
    have is an optical unit, and the second one I've tried with it. No good. I'm glad it does
    have a PC socket on it though. In real-world use, it doesn't matter that it's the master and
    not the slave...the ouput of both Speedlights is adjustable and they're portable (easy to
    move or swap).

    Yes, I've seen some manuals that made my eyes glaze over. The military ones were the
    worst...at least Boeing knows it's writing manuals for customers...

  15. Believe me, David, the SB-600 can be optically triggered. Not by itself, mind you, but here are two very simple configurations which work. The first one is a hotshoe with a built-in optical eye...
  16. The second one is a hotshoe with a piece of sync cord to which I add an inexpensive "peanut." And you can screw both on top of a stand. No sweat. And voila.. All this in M mode, of course.
  17. Am I crazy but when I zoom 100% a G7 image, it's not totally sharp... I feel a kind of grain-pixel on the edge of subject, Compared to my 20D... Am I alone to feel this strange non-sharpness thing? Like pixel-grain Same as an Resized image (20x24 @ 300 dpi out of a 8MP)

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