Positioning of flash

<p>Hi. I would like to use a small, portable flash unit for handheld close-up photography. I have a D90 and 105mm micro and would like the flash to be positioned just above the end of the lens. I want to buy the SB-400 as this is all I need and is small and light. Obviously, for close-ups, the lens would cast a shadow if the flash is on the hotshoe. Is it possible to just hold it above the lens or fix it with a band? Would the SB-600 be better? I have seen a photo where it was mounted on the hotshoe of a flash cord - which in turn was mounted on the cameras hotshoe - and it could bend so the flash was directly over the lens. Any suggestions?</p>

<p>Most brackets mounted on the bottom of the camera can accommodate various lighting angles. Any and all sorts of mini "soft boxes" can be added to your SB-600 bracket mounted with flash cord to hotshoe or sync.</p>

<p>Another approach, since you are so close to the subject of the photo, would be to position reflectors on the sides of (or even under) the subject. That will fill in any shadows and it's a simple and cheap solution. Just carry a ream of card stock (120 lb white paper). It's stiff enough so it won't curl around where you don't want it, but will take a set if you bend it properly. You can buy stick-on velcro pads to hold the paper on a cheap tripod.</p>

<p>Yes, a flash cord is exactly what you want. Look at the SC-28 or SC-29. The flash cord simply extends the hot-shoe, so you can hold the flash wherever you want it to be. Furthermore, you can mount the flash end of the cord to a tripod--there is a screw hole for a tripod quick release plate.</p>

<p>Hang on a second... The D90 will control the SB-R200 or SB-600 wirelessly. I would think of getting one of those. You can get one SB-R200 and ring bracket that will mount on the front of your lens. Or find another way to hold it. The tripod socket could be useful here for either the SB-R200 or the SB-600.<br>

Forget the wires. It's what makes the Nikon system so great!</p>

<p>" I want to buy the SB-400" - but SB-400 is not Nikon CLS compatible and cannot be commanded from the D90 built in flash. Perhaps will not operate at very close distance either ?</p>

<p>Before you get any flash download the Brochure or the Manual, and read specification section where you could possibly find the minimum distance from flash to the subject, if that fits your need for the close distance you want. </p>

<p>The SB-R200 is special macro flash in that way as to allow very close placement of the flash to the subject. You perhaps would not be allow that close with other non-macro flashes and would need the extension cord recomended already to move the flash back..</p>

<p>"You perhaps would not be allow that close with other non-macro flashes and would need the extension cord recomended already to move the flash back.."<br>

Not with the SB-600, or the SB-800 for that matter. For what's being described, a cord should not be necessary. That's the beauty of the Nikon system.</p>

<p>"Not with the SB-600, or the SB-800 for that matter." - the minimum distance for the SB-800 between the flash and the subject is 0.6 m or 2 ft to use automated exposure and the "beauty of the Nikon system". Perhaps SB-600 has similar limitation.<br>

Make sure you do not make closer distance flash pictures with SB-800 and perhaps SB-600.<br>

If you do and spoil your pictures, complain directly to Bill Keane.</p>

<p>"If you do and spoil your pictures, complain directly to Bill Keane."<br>

Right... <br>

Anyway, the SB-800 not being closer than 2 feet (or 20 feet!) to a subject for proper function doesn't negatively impact the useability of the D90/SB-XXX wireless control. If anything, it enhances it. Cords don't help and undercut the D90's built-in wireless capability.</p>

<p>There are multitudes of equipments and $$$ you could spend to make this work. Here's an inexpensive approach that may be a worthwhile test. Experiment with a white bounce card ( about 18"x24" or so) held in place by an assitant at distances of 1 to 4 feet from the flash. (The flash needs to be able to swivel around and tilt up and down as well to orient it towards the bounce card.)<br>

Bounce the hotshoe mounted flash off the card and onto the subject. You can place the card above and also to the sides at various angles from 180 to 90 degrees. Try positioning the card above and slightly behind the camera. A second card held below or to the sides of the subject may provide a secondary fill if you desire a softer shadow look. The shadow is harsher the smaller the bounce source is, however if the card is about 18" away that's a good distance to start. When positioning the card consider the bounce angle like you're playing pool. The SB 600 flashes will provide adequate power to accomplish this. If you are experienced with manual camera operations, you can use any non dedicated flash manually to test the look of this lighting design. Keep in mind it won't look like a ring flash, but that may be an advantage creatively. Usually, lighting isn't about the light as much as it is controlling shadow created by the light. </p>