bob_estremera Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 <p>Here's another quick question:<br>Had a nice initial portrait session and the client was extremely happy and immediately referred me to a new prospect.<br />Exciting.<br />The first shoot was done where shadows falling behind the subject were not an issue.<br>But on my next one, I will be using a 6X9 muslin background.<br />I will be placing main light in a variety of positions. <br />From my early testing with a dummy head, I am a little worried about how to have the freedom to move my main around without having a shadow cast on the background. My challenge is that I do not want to light the background, just let it be dark and neutral behind the subject.<br>What do portrait pros avoid shadows when NOT lighting the background?<br>Thanks, Bob</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJG Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 <p>Place your subject at a good distance in front of the background, and keep your main light fairly high for a start.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Laur Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 <p>If that backdrop is too small to move it farther behind your subject without showing the edges of the backdrop, you may need to increase <em>your</em> distance to the subject as well, and use a longer focal length lens ... since that will narrow the angle of view, and thus include less of what's behind the subject.<br /><br />It will also help if you mention what sort of light source(s) you're using. This is one of the reasons that people choose softboxes (or octaboxes, etc) over umbrellas, and why they will also choose modifiers that allow them to use grids. Grids keep things from splashing around quite so much. <br /><br />Depending on how you're configuring your set, you may also be able to rig up some black foam-core (or other material) flags to help control the light. But mostly, it's about positioning. Your subject's shadow on the backdrop suggests that the light source is relatively low and in line with the camera. Consider getting it higher, or off the side a bit more, and using a reflector to fill as needed.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_levine Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 <p>Your fill light should be high, above the lens, so it's shadows will fall low and behind the subjects. The main light should be several feet right or left of the camera and higher than the lens.</p> <p>Combine these two factors with at least 5' of distance between subject and background, and your shadows are out of the lens' view.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_estremera Posted June 29, 2010 Author Share Posted June 29, 2010 <p>Excellent. That's what I was looking for.<br> My problem is that I will be traveling by subway and on foot and have reduced my lighting inventory to what I can carry - a couple of stands, umbrellas (reflective for now but will go with an umbrella softbox next) and a background that I will affix with Dap BLUESTIK.<br />For me, it's all about learning to capture a quality 'essence' of my subjects with minimal lighting.<br />A challenge but doable in my estimation.<br> Thanks for all the help.<br />Bob</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mariosforsos Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 <p>Shooting with a ring light (or a ring light adapter) would also minimise or even eliminate your shadows...;-)</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_estremera Posted June 30, 2010 Author Share Posted June 30, 2010 <p>Marios,<br> I've looked into the ring light and look forward to using one as a fill in conjunction with the main.<br />Bob</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igord Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 <p>Your lamp close to the model. no need for a long distance etc.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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