Polaroid 55 Type Processing Question, Help needed

Is there someone that can help me regarding Polaroid 55 type film. I am working on a project with this P/N film and am struggling with how to clean/harden the negatives once they have been shot and processed. I have read a ton of stuff on the internet, and googled the heck out if it. I have read about sulfate and certain chemicals to use but I just need someone to explain it real basic for me and list the exact chemicals to purchase. I just don't understand what to do and the dilutions to use. Any help is truly appreciated.

I haven't worked with this in over 15 years, but I do remember using sodium sulfite (from Kodak) to clear type 55 negatives. After a couple of minutes the coating will dissolve to the point that you can remove it. Follow this with a 5 minute wash and then PhotoFlo or some other wetting agent and hang it up to dry. That said, this film is pretty old by now and the original developing chemicals in the Polaroid packet may not work properly, especially if it has been frozen.

If the film is from the original stock, it's almost certain to be difficult if not impossible to use.

 

Or are you talking about the "new" type 55? - but I don't think that's available anymore either.

"New 55" isn't being made any more either, and the sample box I got as a Kickstarter supporter wasn't that great so I'm not surprised that $15/sheet didn't sell.

Having recently used some T55 that expired in '07, I can state that some of the stuff will still work. Not necessarily perfectly, but it might work. I usually do a long water wash of the negative and make sure the goo is all washed off. It usually takes 5-10 minutes for the goo to wash off well. I've done it this way for 10 years and my oldest ones are still ok. I haven't really been that worried about them lasting forever, though. I was told before that regular fixer could be used on the negative as well.

After exposure, place the holder’s arm in the process position. Pull the film/print completely through, with a rapid but smooth and uniform motion. Developing time is 20 seconds provided the ambient temperature is between 55°F - 95°F.

 

Separate the negative from the print by stripping off the thin brown paper mask material. It is important to detach the mask immediately otherwise when the print dries, the mask will adhere to the print. This will make it difficult to separate the mask from the print.

 

The print requires a protective coat using the container of coating provided. Place the print on a firm, flat surface, free of lint and dust. Apply 6 to 8 coats using firms straight strokes that overlap.

 

Handle the now-separated negative with care to avoid scratching. This negative is completely fixed so it is not light sensitive. This negative must be cleaned to remove all traces of the chemicals (reagents) of the process. If the negative is not to be cleaned immediately, allow it to dry in the air. This delay makes future cleaning more difficult and the residual chemicals will slightly lower contrast.

 

The normal procedure is to treat the negative, within 5 minutes to harden the emulsion and remove residual chemicals.

 

Prepare an 18% solution of sodium sulfite. Formula: 6 ounces sodium sulfite --- 32 ounces of clean water. Metric: Dissolve 180 grams in 900ml then add water to make 1000ml.

 

To use – Strip off the reagent pod at the perforations. Immerse the negative in this solution and swish it about. With gentle rubbing, with fingers or cotton swab or cotton ball or soft sponge or well-washed “T” shirt material, remove reagent material.

 

Wash the negative – Rinse in running water for 30 seconds or more, no longer than 5 minutes. The idea is to remove any residual reagent or mask paper. You may rub with fingers etc.

 

Emergency procedure, no sodium sulfite: This film has an anti-halation coat on the reverse side. It is an acid plastic, thus it becomes soluble in an alkaline, and we use sodium sulfate which is also a hardener. Wash in 60°F water or below. The anti-halation dye will remain, make printing and scanning more difficult but not impossible. The un-hardened negative is fragile, but it can be managed by taking care not to scratch. Use fingers or cotton ball to remove residual reagent. Use a wetting agent like PhotoFlow and air dry. No wetting agent? A drop or two of Dawn in a cup of water will do this deed.