Photographing Silver Jewelry on white backgrounds

<p>I cannot get the background white and still be able to see the jewelry - especially fine chains and pearl necklasses.<br>

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.<br>

Mike</p>

 

<p>You might want to consider shooting on a translucent surface, and placing one of your light sources <em>under</em> the object. That way you can get just the light you want on the silver piece while still overexposing that background by a stop or so. <br /><br />Or, you need to consider suspending the object (you can clone out the monofilament, later) so that you can cast a different light source on the background than you're getting on the jewelry.</p>

<p>I'm not happy with silver jewelry shot on white unless you make the background lighter in post-production. Think of the silver jewelry an a dull mirror. As such, it takes on the color and brightness of it's surroundings (what it's reflecting). I like the center parts of silver jewelry to be white (reflecting the light source) and the edges darker (reflecting the background). If you set up on white seamless (I like white formica), by the time you make sure that the silver isn't blowing out and your not losing important detail you'll find that the white background is dull and under exposed. I go into Photoshop and brighten the background without affecting the jewelry - the darker edges of the silver against the white background really makes it pop. Same for pearls. I have examples of both on my website - www.Quindry.com<br>

Richard Quindry</p>

<p>Many times it's easier to light on two planes (the kind without wings).</p>

<p>I do this with rings and small tokens from weddings.<br>

For example, Set a ring up on a small pillow / stand / felt (I love to use my felt beret) and set up 2 small strobes on either side of it into white paper diffuser</p>

<p>Then 5 feet behind this, I setup a piece of white poster board with 2 flashes or 1 gelled flash in the middle.</p>

<p>You set your flashes so that if you take a picture and just have the front flashes fire, you don't see the background. or just the back flashes, you get nothing on the front. See? You're lighting each section independantly.<br>

There's no spill from the background onto your subject.<br>

So you get your background as white as possible, then turn it off and get your jewelry exactly like you want it.<br>

then you turn both on.</p>

<p>Mix to taste.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Consider how the directlion and shape of your light plays in this, not just exposure and background vs foreground. I've shot many white on white scenarios with pleasing results by manipulating shadows and highlights. Soft even light will be boring here.<br /><br />Also, the reflective qualities of the silver important. Use a combination of black and white poster board to reflect into the silver around the edges and in the center respectively.</p>

<p><br />You basically need to shoot this as if it were glassware.<br />Read the book Light Science and Magic available at any Borders or Walden books store. It has a great section on this kind of lighting.</p>