Perfect Camera and Lenses

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by phil_burt, Feb 23, 2010.

  1. I am sure that this is very interpretive but it could be fun to try.
    Assuming you have the choice of either a D90 or D300, also assume that you are a general type of Photographer doing a little of everything. Kids sports, landscapes, portraits not professional though. Then go and fill out your camera bag. What will it contain?
    Third party lenses are OK. Limit to 6 lenses or less. Also include all other accessories, flash filters and so on. This could be wind up helping a lot of people decide what to get for a general set-up. Also if you can indicate what the main purpose for your selections are.
    So what all would you put in that bag?
    Thanks to all,
    Phil B
    Benton, KY
  2. This kind of question comes up frequently, phrased in different ways. I shoot with both FX and DX bodies. My own lens kit is a step back from the latest professional models, but includes everything you need to capture almost everything. Limiting it to six, I would pick:
    1. Nikon 17-35mm f/2.8 AF-S
    2. Nikon 28-70mm f/2.8 AF-S
    3. Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 AF-S VR
    4. Nikon 60mm f/2.8 Micro
    5. Nikon 105mm f/2 DC (for portraits)
    6. Nikon 300mm f/2.8 AF-S & TC17 Teleconverter
    For most people with DX, you could probably trade the 17-55mm AF-S for #1 and #2, trade the 50mm f/1.4 for #5, and trade the the 70-300mm AF-S VR for #6.
  3. For DX:
    Sigma 10-20
    Sigma 10 FE
    Nikkor 17-55
    Nikkor 70-200 VR + TC2III
    Nikkor 85 1.8
    Nikkor 105 2.8 VR micro
    Feisol CT3402 + Manfrotto 486RC2
    For FX:
    replace the first 3 with:
    Sigma 15-30
    Sigma 15 FE
    Nikkor 24(28)-70
  4. I shoot with a DX (D300) and an FX body always in my mind. I find that my kit is almost complete and I can cover almost everything with it.
    1. Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 (I'll keep it to use as an WA with my DX body after buying an FX)
    2. AFS 17-55 f/2.8 (This is the only lens I'll change when I ad an FX body)
    3. AF 35 f/2 (Compact, good for candids and to use on the street even in the evening)
    4. AF 50 f/1.8 (Same as above but I like it as a portrait lens too and even faster at night)
    5. AFS 105 f/2.8 Micro (Great for everything, micro, portraits, land scape)
    6. AF 180 f/2.8 (Good, light and fast tele. I like it better than the big 70-200)
    7. AFS 300 f/4 (For avian. But it's not long or fast enough. I need a lot of $$$ to change it.
    I'm sure many people could skip the the short primes but I think they are very useful.
    I also keep 2 more lenses to use in occasions when I don't wanna risk more expensive glasses:
    AF 35-70 f/2.8 (Very nice short-tele zoom on DX and I use it on risky places)
    AF 35-70 f/3.3-4.5 (Nice lens, light and compact to shoot on the street during the day)
  5. D300 and Nikkor:
    • 12-24
    • 24-70
    • 70-200
    • 85 PC
    • 200mm f/4 AIS (for when the big zoom is too big, too heavy, or too expensive for the occasion)
    • 105mm f/2.5 (What's the point of using Nikon if you don't have one of these?)
  6. Nikon D90, Tokina 11-16mm f2.8, Nikon 17-55mm f2.8, Nikon 70-200mm VR-I, TC-20 III, Nikon SB-800, x2 Nikon SB-28, RF 602 triggers, lightstands, umbrellas, Gitzo tripod, AcraTech head, polarizer, Canon 500D. This would be a nice compact kit that has tremendous flexibility. For portraits, it's the lighting that makes all the difference.
    I've "evolved" to the point where I don't want to be carrying around a whole bunch of lenses, but instead look for versatile high quality ones. I've also come to understand the importance of flash. When you control the light, you have a tremendous advantage over those who can't.
    Kent in SD
  7. My pick for 6 lenses to go with a D90 or D300 would be:
    Nikon 17-55 f/2.8 Af-s (General Walk around lens - The one I use now on my D90)
    Nikon 50 f/1.4 Af-s (Low Light Situations)
    Nikon 300 2.8 VRII Af-s w/TC-17 Teleconverter (Sports and Nature)
    Nikon 70-200 VRII Af-s (Great general use Telephoto, sports nature, portraits)
    Nikon 12-24 f/4 (wide angle for landscapes, and distorted close-ups)
    Nikon 105 f/2.8 VR Micro Af-s (Macro and Portraits)
  8. D300 and the following Nikon lenses:
    35mm 1:1.8 AF-S for low light and as small walkaround-lens
    17-55 mm 1:2.8 AF-S general purpose (I love this lens)
    10-24 mm 1:3.5-4.5 AF-S for the occasional wide angle and landscape pictures
    70-200 mm 1:2.8 AF-S VR II for the long shots, portrait, sport
    SB-600, SB-900, some mobile light bouncers, Manfrotto carbon tripod, Markins head, that's about it. I like to travel light. The last two lenses are on my wish-list, the rest is in my bag. I might take the plunge for FX one day, but right now I buy what I need today, DX or FX I don't care. The above for me is just perfect.
  9. I take a D90 with 10-24, 16-85 and 70-300 whenever I go out. I add to that depending on circumstances- 35/1.8 if I plan on low light, 10/2.8 if I want a particularly wide (and odd) look and a macro lens. I use all three macro's - 60, 105 and 200, and carry the 60 if I want to go light, the 105 if I expect to do much macro shooting, but rarely carry the 200 because of it's size and weight. If I carry a flash, it's usually the SB-400 (very small and allows me to bounce flash). I always have a GT0531 with RRS BH-25 with me - two pounds, but will use the GT2541ex with Arca Swiss Z1 and Kirk macro focusing rail when doing "serious" macro work, but it weights over 5 pounds. I also carry polarizing, graduated ND and ND filters.
    I love having three lenses covering 15-450mm (equivalent), particularly since they overlap sufficiently that I don't have to change lenses too often. I also tend to shoot at f8-f16 for DOF, I shoot primarily in daylight and like to travel light, so the larger, higher speed, fixed aperture lenses don't appeal to me. Also saves a lot of cash (eaten by tripods).
  10. D300S Sometime movie come in handy like putting together a sport portfolio. D300's auto focus is a good to have for sport.
    70-200/2.8VR is a bread and butter for sport events. It's also a somewhat versatile portrait lens too.
    85/1.4 Nikkor, for tight head and shoulder portrait.
    50/1.4 Sigma or Nikkor, Portrait and some once in a while macro needs (via diopter and rings)
    30/1.4 Sigma, Low light Normal
    17-55 Nikkor/2.8 GP Zoom and Landscape
    300/4 VR AF-S, +1.4X TC Not too heavy nor expensive telephoto
  11. Well, here is what I would want the bag to contain:
    10-15/2.8 AF-S (when the one following isn't wide enough)
    16-70/2.8 AF-S VR (the general walk-around lens)
    70-200/4 AF-S VR Macro (modern version of the 70-180/4.5-5.6)
    150-300/2.8 AF-S VR with a 1.4x/1.7x
    Until this comes true, I pack the following:
    35/1.8 or 50/1.8
    70-180/80-200/80-400 (depending on what I expect to shoot)
    I often leave the house just with
    and may throw in either the 150/2.8 or the Apo-Telyt 180/3.4
    My bird photography bag contains the
    300/4 AF-S with TC-14E and TC-17EII
    12-24 (just in case)
    and a 500D.
    Either a SB-800 or SB-600 in the bag. Various light modifiers. Wired remote. ND4 and ND8 filter and polarizer. R1 macro flash kit.
  12. Not professional, but gets the job done. Limiting me to 6 lenses has me missing a few goodies, though.
    D90 with the following:
    Nikon 12-24mm f/4 AF-S
    Nikon 80-200mm f/2.8 AF-S
    Sigma 30mm f/1.4
    Nikon 85mm f/1.4 (Maybe the Sigma will take this place)
    Sigma 150mm f/2.8 macro
    Nikon 300mm f/4 AF-S with TC-14EII and TC-E17II
    2 AB800's with SB800
  13. General non-pro photographer doing a bit of everything, with a D90 or D300 body, (Nikkor lenses except as mentioned):
    - 10.5mm Fisheye
    - 18-70 Kit zoom lens
    - 55-200 VR zoom
    - 50 f/1.8 or f/1.4 for low light portraits
    - 35mm f/2 Nikkor or the Sigma f/1.4 for general available light shooting
    - 300 f/4, and a monopod for stability
    - Polarizers in enough sizes to cover all the lenses (except fisheye). Skylight filter for each lens.
    - Nikon flash, say SB-600
    - Lightweight tripod
    - Remote trigger matched to your camera
    - GPS (I use the DawnTech di-GPS)
    The next addition would be a macro lens, probably 55mm f/3.5 or f/2.8, and a macro focusing rail for use on tripod.
  14. I too am a non-pro, jack-of-all-trades (master of none, is true too) photographer. I am quite satisfied with my complement of lenses, to list a pack of 6:
    D300 (over D90, just because of the improved focus module for middle/high-school sports)
    Tokina AF 12-24mm f/4
    Nikkor AF 24-70mm f/2.8 AF-S
    Nikkor AF 70-200mm f/2.8 AF-S VR
    Tamron AF 90mm f/2.8 1:1 macro
    Nikkor AF 85mm f/1.8
    Nikkor AF 50mm f/1.4
    Nikkor 300mm f/4 (non AF-S) (I rarely carry this, only take it along for bird/animal shots).
    I also have the Tamron/Kenko 1.4x and 2x tele-converters. I'd love to have the Nikkor 105mm f/2.8 VR macro, the Nikkor AF 85mm f/1.4. I am more and more convinced that as little as I use the really long end, I would rather rent those for the few occasions.
  15. Let's keep it a bit a decent budget for a more normal "starting kit"....
    D90, Nikon 10-24 (or Tokina 12-24), 16-85VR, 70-300VR, 35 f/1.8. The other 2 lenses mainly depend on interests (portrait/macro/wildlife etc.). SB600, something bouncecard and a omnibounce, Circular Polariser, a good bag, decent Manfrotto or similar tripod with ballhead, the remote control for the D90, extra battery, bunch of memory cards, extra batteries for the flash too.
    If there is no budget consideration, the list obviously changes. But for the types of photography outlined above, I think the above kit would serve perfectly well for 99% of the people.
  16. Oops, forgot the accessories. Extra batteries, SB-800 flash with home-made "a better bounce card", Circular polariser (thin, and multi-coated), a travel tripod and a monopod (mostly in trunk of car), Tiffen filter holder with Hi-tech ND and graduated ND filters, lens-cleaner, brush, blower, cleaning cloth. When I take the 300mm, I take the Better Beamer flash accessory.
    In line with Wouter's comment, no need to acquire everything all at the same time. I think it is good to create a planned list of lenses and acquire good optics over several years. Start with the slight-wide to mid-tele (24-70, 17-55, etc) and get used to it for a year, get a macro maybe the next year to open up lots of possibilities, and a super-wide the following year, etc. etc. Add the longer lenses later.
  17. This is just a hobby for me and it seems to satisfy my NAS. My bag consists of the following;
    D300, 10.5 Nikkor Fisheye, 16-85 VR Nikkor, 70-300 VR Nikkor, 105 macro VR Nikkor, Sigma 170-500, Nikon SB 900 flash, Bogen tripod, Manfrotto monopod, UV/Haze filters for all lenses and circular polarizing filters as well. Then there is the Leica stuff..... Wait......that's only five Nikon lenses! I need to tell my wife that I need to buy a 6th one :) Seriously, I enjoy landscapes, wildlife, birds and some macro stuff.
  18. One lens. 16-85 VR or some such (perhaps 17-55 if you have to have big pro glass). Shoot with it a while. Buy additional lenses as you KNOW you need them, not just to fill slots in the bag.
  19. I'd pick D300 because I like its build quality... but because I like toys :) I'd beg for it's newer brother D300s. Regarding the glass:
    Kit Version I (smelling pro):
    Tokina 11-16/f2.8
    Sigma 30mm/f1.4 (or Nikon 24mm/f1.4...)
    Nikon 50mm/f1.2 (or Sigma 50mm/f1.4)
    Nikon 85mm/f1.4
    Sigma 150mm/f2.8 macro
    Nikon 180mm/f2.8
    Kit Version II (budget):
    Voigtlander 20mm/f3.5
    Nikon 35mm/f1.8
    Nikon 50mm/f1.8
    Tamron 90mm/f2.8 macro
    Nikon 70-300 VR
    Kit Version III [zoom(b)ie]:
    Tokina 11-16mm/f2.8
    Tamron 17-50mm/f2.8
    Sigma 50-150mm/f2.8
    Sigma 150-500mm
    Other mandatory stuff:
    SB900, ND8, polarizer, good tripod & ballhead, monitor/printer colour calibrator, Capture NX2 software.
  20. Nikkor 14-24mm f/2.8
    Zeiss 100mm f/2
    Nikkor 200mm f/2
    Plus the mandatory stuff:
    4 x SB-900, plus gels, snoots and barn doors
    PocketWizard Plus II
    Gitzo GT3531
    Markins M20
    Singh-Ray Filters (CPol, grad ND, reverse grad NDs, variable ND)
    But most important of all, more creativity and more talent ;)
  21. Why does it have to be DX? (Sigh.)
  22. Wow, Great responses.
    What can be so good about this, is one can now look at this list and have some idea of what others "would" put in their bag. It is often stated wait until you shoot to buy anything, I believe most people today who buy them don't really know. They want something better than a P & S and they think getting a DSLR will do it.
    I would not suggest to someone to go out and buy all of this stuff but it does lead them down a path for future when they do know a little more.
    Several people did say what they would use the particular lens for and that sure helps out a newbie.
    Ilkka Nissila, The only reason I started this in mind for the DX crowd as they make up the majority, as most new users do not jump into FX. Usually by the time one gets to purchasing an FX they should have a good idea where to start.
    Thank you to all that have replied, I hope that it does fill a need and others will look at this list for a little guidence. I hope that many more will answer as the day goes on.
    phil b
    benton, ky
  23. My own kit, perfect for me:
    35/1.4 AIS
    55/3.5 micro, AI-converted
    monopod, polarizer, ND 400x filter, slingbag
  24. For most uses:
    Nikon 10.5mm FF fisheye
    Sigma 10-20
    Nikon 18-200 VR
    Nikon 70-300 VR
    For the zoo or aquarium
    Tamron 17-50 f/2.8
    Sigma 50-150 f/2.8
    Nikon 70-300 VR
    Nikon 50mm f/1.8
    This assumes that I'm paying for the lenses. This also is what I actually have. If you were paying the only changes would be a Nikon 10-24 instead of the Sigma 10-20 and a Nikon 50mm f/1.4 instead of the 1.8.
    There are 7 lenses in all, but only 4 in each kit. I hope that's OK.
  25. I'm Prime Happy, generally because they're cheaper and faster, (and you get to learn some fundamental photography before you get into zooms). I also live by the rule that you should not overlap focal lengths in zoom lenses, otherwise you're just carrying around more glass, (and weight), than you need to.
    2x D300s:
    Nikkor (Prime lens kit; Pros: Light weight, durable Cons: No Zoom)
    35mm f/1.8 (general, all purpose lens on my D90 75% of the time)
    50mm f/1.4 (Indoor/Low light/no flash)
    85mm f/1.4 (Portraits)
    105mm micro-nikkor (Macro/Portraits)
    135mm F/2 DC (Ultimate Portrait lens) also, mid-telephoto for getting a little length
    200mm F/4 (Outdoor sports)
    Realistic / on a budget (Pros: Inexpensive, covers most needed focal lengths on DX Cons: No Wide-Zoom)
    35mm f/1.8
    85mm f/1.8
    70-300mm f/3.5-5.6 VR
    Unlimited Budget / Pro Kit (Pros: Everything you need for 99% of what you will ever shoot Cons: EXPENSIVE and HEAVY)
    35mm f/1.8 -or- 135mm f/2 DC depending on your needs
    50mm f/1.4
    85mm f/1.4
    14-24mm f/2.8
    24-70mm f/2.8
    70-200mm f/2.8
    Or, the do-it-all solution for a really tight budget:
    Nikkor 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 VRII (Pros: Lightweight, one lens solution Cons: Heavy distortion on both the wide and tele ends of the lens/ no low light solution without flash)
  26. My personal limit is a system I could carry comfortably on my shoulder for at least 12 hours. So that would be a DX based system starting with a reasonably light camera with the very good AF--NOT the D40 or D60. Lenses would then be just the following 3:
    • The 35F1.8 DX AF-S of course! This lens alone, puts Nikon ahead of Canon, Sony, etc.
    • The 18-55 DX VR zoom--essentially a decent light WA in lieu of a compact 14-28mm wide zoom.
    • The new 85mm F3.5 VR micro. This is the most reluctant choice as I'd very much prefer a F1.4 DX/APC lens in the 70mm to 90mm range instead of a slow macro. Still the VR may make this an adequate "night" lens.
    That's it!
  27. I'd choose a canon :)
    Happy debate
  28. You said you are just getting started. You can get better glass when you're ready to exploit it.
    My suggestion is:
    • D90
    • Nikkor 50mm 1.8
    • Sigma 28-90 3.5-5.6 Zoom
    • Sigma 70-300 Zoom
    You can always upgrade later if you want/need better glass.
    Sampson Law,
    I'd love to hear your opinion on why you have 4 SB-900s. I'm actually a Canon gal who recently dumped the kit I just listed above. I thought these lenses were plenty versatile for general photography stuff. Served me well all the way through school. (The kit I sold had a D100 and not a D90--I wanted to trade in my Nikon gear for a backup body that used the same lenses as my 5D, and I have a lot more and better Canon glass).
    Anyway, I see that you use pocketwizards and you have those 4 SB-900s and I wanted to ask why. I can see having a backup, and then wanting a couple for off-camera flash. My question is this:
    Do you really need TTL for your off camera flas units? I use a non-Pocket Wizard branded trigger that doesn't have TTL. I get great results and I actually prefer the constant light over TTL for off-camera-flash--makes adjustments easier. Further, my triggers are cheap, and my flashes are old, so if they walk away I'm not out much. Is there any case to be made for using a TTL off-camera-flash? I have a couple TTL flashes that I use on my camera in combination with off-camera-flash, but for off-camera-flash I rely on non-TTL flashes.
    Why the expensive flashes for off-camera-flash? If it's just for more power, I understand.
  29. The lightest, simplest "do-it-all" kit for me would be:
    18-55 VR
    55-200 VR with 4T closeup lens
    35 1.8
    This set up is cheap by photography standards, very lightweight, and uses one standard/cheap filter size. You get low light capability and flexible focal lengths. The 4T lens will get you almost to 1:1 for macro.
    If you wanted a dedicated portrait lens that blurs the background more, you could add a 50 1.8 or similar.
    You could add any accessories you saw fit (flash, tripod, etc etc). The lightweight lenses also mean you can get away with a lightweight tripod if you need one.
  30. I am actually turning more into film now, cos it slows me down, I only do landscapes. I cannot do events, sports or candid or portraiture.
    If I used my DX camera. I would take along a Sigma 10-20mm, Nikon 18-70mm and if I get it 70-200mm f/2.8 VR II. I also use this at home if I was walking about and doing photog which we get a monthly topic at my camera club. For these non special shots, I don't use film. A lot of it is not what I am into, but the purpose of the club is to get you shoot something not in your comfort spot. Ie., topics like mystical, finality, letter S, self portrait, organised etc etc ..
    If I shoot film I shoot only primes maybe a zoom for the WA.
    DX is not really suited for low light travel when I go overesas. So I don't really use it for that then ..... meaning the fast primes has a 1.5x.
  31. I were to go overseas, maybe Sigma 10-20, Nikon 18-70, and a 180mm prime or just skip the 3rd lens.
  32. If I could update it and I probably would at home, maybe a Sigma 10-20mm and Nikon 17-55mm and 70-200mm VR II on DX body. If travelling I prob would stick with Sigma 10-20mm and Nikon 18-70mm and not sure about the tele, skip it or just a 180mm or even a older lens I had before 80-200/4-5.6.
    For argument sake, if I did have a FX and I did use digital overseas, probably not but hey. Really not sure. I rather not say it. With film I just shoot a few primes. With FX digital I may shoot either or both some kind of portable FF zooms and fast primes. Dunno ...
  33. For me it would be the D300, but I use a D700, lenses would be the same though:
    17-35mm f2.8 Nikkor
    24-70mm f2.8 Nikkor
    50mm f1.4G Nikkor
    85mm f1.4 Nikkor
    150mm f2.8 Macro Sigma
    70-300mm VR Nikkor
    Also SB 800s X4, 1.4X extender, Canon G11
  34. Bill,
    Would you care to comment on the four SB-800s? I posted a question above asking why so many flashes.
  35. I do some event and wedding work, and in larger halls I find that a light stand in each corner, with the SB 800s fired by the on camera flash gives me freedom to roam the hall and the resulting shots give a very natural lighting effect. Also when I need flash for fast shooting, the flashes can be ganged with velcro and give a much faster recyle.
  36. also assume that you are a general type of Photographer doing a little of everything. Kids sports, landscapes, portraits not professional though. Then go and fill out your camera bag. What will it contain​
    Pretty much the exact same gear as I use every day as a newspaper photographer. I mainly use one body with a normal prime, which by my definition would be a 28mm on a D90/D300, and that is all I need for most of my assignments that aren't sports. The second body (which I suppose is optional if you aren't professional) has the 70-200/2.8 VR. I consider everything else (superwides, macros, tilt-shifts, superteles) specialty, which can be loaned from the photo department. Throw in a couple of flashes and I'm good to go.
  37. @ Juanita,
    Remember this is a dream list. Like Bill, I do some weddings and events, and I find one can never have too much light. Currently I only use two speedlights, on on the hot shoe and one off camera, but I certainly wouldn't mind more off camera. Regarding TTL, I really can't say, I haven't used TTL flash for many years, but Neil van Niekerk seems to be a big supporter of the system.
    None of these things (lens or lighting) will ever be bought, but its nice to dream.
  38. Two M6s
    Lots of film
    Yes I know it's the nikon forum but I felt like being the purist(even though recently I've not been content with my Contax G1, and have for some reason been wanting on a D300 and some assorted lenses.. nevertheless, I know I'd never bother carrying it anywhere, so I'll stick with my little purist kit. Perhaps substitute M9s in.. I don't really know)
  39. I have my dream list!
    Nikon 18-200 VR
    Tamron 17-50 2.8
    Tokina 11-16 2.8
    Sigma 30 1.4
    Sigma 50 1.4
    Tokina 100 macro 2.8
    and one extra just for fun- Vivitar 7mm fisheye
  40. 28mm on a D90/D300, and that is all I need for most of my assignments that aren't sports. The second body (which I suppose is optional if you aren't professional) has the 70-200/2.8 VR. I consider everything else (superwides, macros, tilt-shifts, superteles) specialty, which can be loaned from the photo department. Throw in a couple of flashes and I'm good to go.
    Hi Hugh J Could you please tell (I am a beginner so please excuse any dumb questions) would the 70-200/2.8 VR lens be for the sports side of things and the 28mm for everything else. Also does the 28mm have a f number. I enjoy taking photos of my kids sports and my dogs racing around (whippets) so I need a fast lens. I have a D90 with a nikon lens 18-105mm. Thanks Jo
  41. Why does it have to be DX? (Sigh.)​
    Ilkka, quiet! They don't know any better.....
  42. Nikon 200mm f2 VR is the best lens I have ever used, no question.
    I much prefer primes, so I'd also go 50 1.4, 85 1.4, 24 1.4 (check that price tag!) and a 55 2.8 MF macro.
  43. My pick :)
    Nikon D700 or D300s
    FX: 16-35, 50, 70-200, 105mm
    DX: 12-24, 50, 70-200, 105mm (maybe also 10-20 or 10-24)
    If budget is not your problem... 24mm, 28mm, 14-24mm, 24-70mm, 85mm, 300mm,...but let us be real...
  44. Also Zeiss 21mm f2.8 - has excellent reviews.
  45. I shoot a D300s and a F5
    Tokina 12-24 F4 DII ( landscapes)
    Nikon 50 1.4
    Nikon 35-70 2.8
    Nikon 105 2.8
    Nikon 80-200 2.8
    Nikon 400 3.5
  46. Nikon D300
    1. Nikon 12-24 f/4 - landscape, architecture
    2. Nikon 17-55 f/2.8 - everything from landscape to action (concert), except portraits.
    3. Nikon 70-200 VR1 f/2.8 - action/sports, concert lowlight, portraits
    4. Nikon 35 mm f/1.8 - indoors lowlight
    5. Nikon 85mm (1.4/1.8) - portraits, concerts (lowlight), action (lowlight),
    6. TC 1.4E-II - extender mainly for the 70-200.
    • MB-D10 VG
    • Lights- SB800/900
    • Filters UV Hoya/ B&W
    • tripod+ball head.
    But I have a D3 as well... so I have in addition:
    • nikon 14-24
    • nikon 24-70
    • nikon 18-200 (that is for the d300 but you said 6 lenses) :)
    • nikon 50 f/1.4 (AF-D)
    • nikon 300 f/4
    • triggers, umbrellas, softboxes, stands...
  47. mizore

    mizore A Gringa in Nicaragua

    105mm VR macro for flowers, pen nibs, insects, certain kinds of portraits, and landscape details (where the VR really comes in handy).
    80-200 F/2.8 AF-D as the poor woman's 70-200 F/2.8 VR AFS zoom (love the color rendition of this lens). The used AFS versions cost as much as new AF-D.
    24-85 F/2.8-4 AF-D as the poor woman's 24-70 AFS VR f/2.8 (improved color rendition over 18-70mm AFS).
    400mm f/5.6 manual focus as the poor woman's long telephoto lens. Great for head and shoulders of deer. Takes the same filters as the 24-85mm. Must have sturdy tripod to get best shots. Very susceptible to vibrations. 300mm AFS with teleconverter would be a better alternative, but this was cheaper.
    Round out with 50mm f/1.8 AF-D, 105mm f/2.5 gaussian MF, and 24mm 2.8 manual focus. I also have a 70-300 AF-D (bought used) but the word is that the 70-300 AFS VR is superior. I'm keeping this one for days when the 80-200 and the 400mm would be too heavy, but I may replace it with the VR version if that's not appreciably heavier.
    If I had the money, I'd have the D700 or the D3s and the big f/2.8 zooms, the 200mm macro, a 600mm bird tele, and one lighter prosumer zoom as a walk about lens. The D300 and the 80-200 weigh about as much as a Hasselblad with 80mm lens.
    My other Nikon cameras are an F3 and a F100, so I want things that play nice with at least both the F100 and the digital. Having a pro body (D700, D3#, D300, D200) makes using manual lenses close to painless.
  48. Phil, these make me feel secure since I do events and lots of Street photography.
    sigma 10-20mm 4-5.6
    Nikon 17-55mm 2.8
    Sigma 30mm 1.4
    Sigma 50mm 1.4 (becoming my favorite walk around lens)
    Nikon 85mm 1.8
    Nikon 80-200mmD 2.8 (for obvious beautiful portraits from a distance.)
  49. Good, this helps me to actually write down a checklist for myself. ;) I normally carry the following (backup extra):
    • 10-24 or 12-24
    • 24-70
    • 70-200
    • 200-400 with Wimberley Sidekick (if there is wildlife opportunity)
    • 200 micro with mini reflectors and "Plamp" (if there is macro opportunity),
    • TC 1.4x, 1.7x, 2.0x
    • LPlate for camera(s), not forgetting the hex key
    • Polarizers (multiple brands), Lee ND grads and holder
    • Bubble level
    • SB800 or SB900
    • SC-17, Better Beamer & Wimberley telephoto bracket (if there is wildlife opportunity)
    • Gitzo GT3530LSV tripod with Markins M20 ballhead and RRS clamp
    • Bag: Airport International (roller) or Airport Acceleration (backpack)
    • 8GB CF cards in Pixel Pocket Rocket
    • Extra batteries and lens caps
    • Microfiber towel-size cloths
    • Card reader, rechargers, laptop, 2 mini harddrives, small power strip, stored in "Aiport Check In" and "Cable Management" (ThinkTankPhoto products) for non-field needs
  50. Perfect way to get through a Monday...
    Nikon D300 and F5
    AF 20/2.8 or 24/2.8 Ai'd
    AF 35-70/2.8 or AF 55/2.8 Micro or 50/1.8 Ai
    85/2 Ai or 135/3.5 Ai'd
    AF 180/2.8
    SB-400 w/ Stofen
    What I would consider adding:
    Superwide DX Zoom 10-20, 11-16, 12-24, 10-24... OR new 16-35/4 VR
    AF 105/2.8 VR Micro
    AF TC 1.4 or 1.7 for the 180/2.8
    AF DX walkaround zoom - 18-70, 16-85 or 18-200 OR 3rd party 2.8 17-50
    This is my current and 'wishlist' for my purely personal photography and not specific to a type of assignment. If I was doing event/wedding type photgraphy I'd probably stick to the 'holy trinity' plus a fast prime or two, add in a SB-900.
  51. Hi Hugh J Could you please tell (I am a beginner so please excuse any dumb questions) would the 70-200/2.8 VR lens be for the sports side of things and the 28mm for everything else. Also does the 28mm have a f number. I enjoy taking photos of my kids sports and my dogs racing around (whippets) so I need a fast lens. I have a D90 with a nikon lens 18-105mm. Thanks Jo​
    Well generally a 70-200/2.8 is for any situation where you are stuck in one place and can't move. The sidelines or press box at a sports event would certainly qualify; the yellow police tape around a crime or accident scene would be another. It's also a very versatile portrait lens, or for any kind of composition where you want to compress foreground and background, or get a narrow depth of field. The Silent Wave Motor makes focusing very fast for action. Although it's used far less often than my regular lens, the 70-200 has saved my butt on so many assignments, usually situations in which I couldn't get as close as I thought I'd be able to.

    The 70-200/2.8 VR (I owned at one time) or VR-II (no experience with it yet) would be the best you can possibly get for your intended purposes.
    I actually used a 24/2.8 as my regular lens when I was just starting out in my newspaper internship, which worked out to around 36mm equivalent on the 1.5x crop Nikons. I was allowed to borrow whatever else I needed from the photo department until I could get my hands on a 17-55/2.8 and a 70-200/2.8.
  52. The perfect 6 lens D300 kit:
    1) Nikon 10-24
    2) Nikon 24-70 f/2.8
    3) Nikon 70-200 f/2.8
    ...and when traveling light:
    4) Nikon 16-85
    5) Nikon 70-300
    6) Nikon 35mm f/1.8
    Add in a couple sb-600's...a cheap umbrella set up...a tripod...a remote, and you've got versatility, portability and coverage from 15mm to 450mm (DX).

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