Pentax K200D?

So, I'm interested in the K200D but I'm curious what everyone else has to say about it? Strengths? Weaknesses?

And I have a bunch of older lenses I would like to use with it, does it work well? How do the images turn out?

Pretty much, what's your take on the camera? Your input would be so greatly appreciated! :)

HW, While I do not own this body, everything I have read from users is 100% positive. I do not believe I have ever read a negative remark about it. The images I have seen are stunning as well..Sorry I am not much more help.

I have a K10D. I too, have heard good things about the K200D. The only real complaint I've heard is that some people are not certain whether to buy it or a good, used K10D, since they have the same 10 MP sensor, or to spend the extra money and get the K20D, with its 14 MP sensor.

 

As for old lenses, this is one of Pentax' selling points. Their claim is that any Pentax lens ever made will work with the new digital cameras. This is certainly true of k-mount lenses. Or course, a 1975 manual-focus lens with no automation will not magically acquire those abilities when you mount it on a K200D, but it should work just fine. With an adapter, any M42 screw-mount lens can also be used. I really enjoy using my old 50mm, f/1.4 Super Takumar on my K10D.

 

Screw mount lenses must be used in stop-down metering mode. Genuine Pentax lenses of that era had an auto/manual switch for the aperture. Set the lens in manual. Some third party lenses don't have that switch and there is no way to stop the lens down, either for metering or shooting.

 

Original K-mount lenses (from the K-1000, KX, etc.) era, work, but exta steps must be taken to stop the lens down for metering. The same is true for the M-series lenses, which were basically smaller versions of the same lenses, to match the M-series cameras (ME, MX, etc.).

 

Note, for screw mount, K and M series lenses, you should find the menu option that says "Allow use of aperture ring" and set it on. This is off by default and will prevent the camera from using any lens that it can't control, via the electfical contacts.

 

KA-mount lenses from the Program Plus era (mid-eighties to early nineties) have electrical contacts for the lens to communicate with the camera and allow the camera to control the aperture. These work just fine. The only thing you lose is auto-focus.

 

KF and KAF mount lenses are full-frame auto-focus lenses. These work best of all. All camera and lens functions work perfectly. These are the F and FA series lenses.

 

Beware of third-party k-mount lenses that are made for later model Ricoh SLR's. Ricoh used a modified k-mount on their cameras. Specifically, they added a pin of some sort to the mount. I'm not sure what it was for, but on a Pentax auto-focus camera, that pin can become entangled in the AF drive screw. If this happens, it can be extremely difficult to remove the lens.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Paul Noble

I bought a K200D about 3 weeks ago. I hadn't previously owned a digital camera to compare it against but I am very impressed with it. The photos it produces are very sharp.

 

Pros: I can mount any old K mount lens onto it. Body has shake reduction. Plenty of useful features built in (some I'll use, some I probably won't). Weather sealing is a bonus.

 

Cons: Bigger and heavier than my old Pentax SLRs. Viewfinder is smaller and dimmer than my old SLRs but I don't find that a major hurdle. Sometimes need to hunt through the menus to adjust settings - but at least they are there!

what about AF? I've read in this forum that the AF is not as good in low light as similar canikon bodies.

I know someone can say something bad aboot this camera.... all it needs is to be smaller and have a bigger viewfinder and its perfect?

I've heard the the older lenses don't attach as easily, is this true? I haven't found anything through my reasearch...

I'm new with DSLRs, but I have older pentax cameras (as you could probably assume). My digital camera is dying

and i'm looking for something to replace it, is the K200D a good replacement option? Is there room to grow? I've

also heard that it takes better photos in RAW, but that's more computer space, how are the images in JPEG? Does

anyone have any sample images I could look at? Thank you for all your responses! They have been very helpful, I'm

just nervous about spending the money on a new camera...

Regarding AF, what I can tell you is that until now I didn't found subject dark enough for my K100D AF to miss... and I think I said enough. A sample : ISO 1600, f/3.5, 1.3sec exposure and it did AF !

 

Regarding JPEG and RAW: H W mixed facts from different cameras, what he said is true for two digit bodies (K10 and K20) which are aimed to pros, shoting more RAW, the entry bodies like Kx00D, aimed to snapshoters, have better JPEG processing, not so much need for RAW, the output is quite nice if the subject dinamic range does not exceed JPEG capabilities (6-7 f-stops)

Other than the caveat about Ricoh k-mount lenses that I mentioned in my earlier post, I've never heard of any problems attaching older k-mount lenses. If you're going to use screw-mount lenses, a high-quality adapter is a must. Some swear that only the genuine Pentax adapter will do. I have a third party adapter that works well for me, but I know that there are some crappy ones out there.

 

I don't have a lot of older lenses, but the few I do have go on my K10D very nicely and work perfectly, within their own limitations (no AF, etc.).

 

The jpegs from my K10 are pretty good. I think that Pentax gets a bad rap for this, because they set the defaults for a more "film like" look, whatever that means. Most people have found that, if they bump the contrast, image tone and saturation a little bit from the defaults, the jpegs are comparable to any other manufacturer's.

 

I have begun shooting in raw lately, not because of jpeg quality, but because, if you need to do any modifications in post processing, its much easier to start with raw. For example, if the white balance is off, the jpeg just doesn't have the original information that the raw file does. I find that I can correct WB on a raw image (using Photoshop Elements 6) very easily, but jpegs are much more problematic.

 

Paul Noble

There is a lot of information about this camera in this thread: http://www.photo.net/pentax-camera-forum/00QMes

 

I don't know of anyone who owns this camera who is dissatisfied.

Very well built, remarkable for a compact model for that price. Nice features, including an exclusively Pentax Hyper operation in the "P" mode where you can instantly intercede and select a different shutter speed, and Hyper manual operation in the "M" mode, where you can get instant metering and exposure setting at the touch of a button. Instant RAW button when shooting in JPEG mode, and more. New features also include enhanced dynamic range control and noise reduction user control at high ISO.

 

DSLR VF are typically smaller, having less magnification than those found on older film SLR cameras. The smaller format sensor has a great deal to do with that. The VF of the K200D is rated exceptionally good for its category and price range, according to test reports.

 

I recently acquired one and am delighted with it. The new compact 18-55mm II kit lens is remarkable as well for such low cost. And I say this even though I have some heavy-duty pro type lenses.

Judging by your original question, I think the K200D would serve you well, and better than a K10D. The soon available K-m

/ K2000 sounds pretty good as well. Sort of a cross between the K10D and K200D with a bit of Optio-option-magic in it. In

my opinion, it's possibly your best match.

hello HW,

I have the k200d and cant find anything wrong with it but, you should definetly do alittle resourch on your own and check out other cameras like the k10d, which is basiclly the same thing but alittle more advanced. If you are buying from Wolf Camera then you can stop by the store and ask to see the camera. who knows, you might not like the feel of it.Im sure youll love it.

Rick

Out of camera JPEG shots are unquestionably sharper from the K200D. I have seen side by side comparisons. One good websight to check for this is imaging resource. Click on compare sample images. The K10D is no longer listed but the Nikon D200 is, which was shown to be identical to the Pentax K10D. Compare the Nikon D200 against the Pentax K200D. Use the house poster, and click on the enlargement icon for maximum blowup. Check intersecting lines and the roof shingles.

Michael, K10D is still there, just need to click All link in top of page (Display Current | All Cameras)

Thanks, Renato. Good info!!

How does the pentax k200d do with action shots?

I have not tried action with the K200D yet, but shooting hockey with my K100D and a fast lens gave very satisfactory results. These cameras do not have the larger buffer and longer burst capability of the larger models, but for me did fine. I picked my shots in single mode, but with continuous AF setting.<div></div>

Is there any reason I should get an extended warranty on it? Would you suggest I get an extended warranty? Would it work well with shooting gymnastics? I would like a camera that takes good action shots in fluorescent lighting with fast moving gymnasts. Would love your input :)

If you can get a longer Pentax Corp. warrany, fine, but I don't think such is available for a DSLR. The usual Mack extended warranty is not worth it, IMO. I just go with the 1 year from Pentax.

 

Like the above shot, Gymnastics is normally an indoor sport, requiring a fast lens and higher ISO camera setting. You do not give specific info on the lenses you now have. The above was shot at ISO 1600 with a Tokina 28-70 lens set at f/2.8, which is wide open. Such fast, constant aperture "pro" type zoom lenses are larger, heavier, and much more costly than standard zoom lenses. But you need that wider F/ number to get your shutter speed up to stop action for sharper shots when shooting fast-moving sports. Here I was able to achieve 1/350-1/500 sec shutter speed under these lighting conditions. Shooting in the manual mode is a good idea to fix good exposure irrespective of changes in background as the athletes move around.

 

Frankly, I think you could get very good results with the K200D at ISO 1600 with careful metering in the manual mode, and use of the adjustable noise reduction, although I have not yet tried it. But the K100D super has been really outstanding for this kind of thing, without the noise reduction adjustment, and perhaps with more metering latitude. I suspect I may continue to prefer the K100D Super for higher ISO shooting. Last time I checked, Tristate camera still had some in stock. With this store, I recommend dealing by phone and verify the item is in stock before giving credit card info.

 

You might be shooting from a greater distance for gymnastics than I was for the hockey, so a longer zoom may be needed. The new Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8 is a superb zoom lens. Hopefully that will be long enough. Using your old lenses from where you sit might give you that information. My Tokina is no longer made, but the Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 zoom is also excellent. Both of these I believe to be still in stock at B&H in New York (bhphotovideo.com).

BTW, the top ISO setting on the K200D and K10D is 1600, where the K100D Super and K20D can provide ISO 3200. But with ISO 3200, quality does suffer, although still usable with the K100! There are also noise cleanup software programs available.

I bought a K200 2 months ago and it seems to be working well. I obtained a number of Pentax m lenses a rikenon which

is surprisingly good and a Carl Zeiss. I also got hold of a sigma auto lens 100-300mm. I used slr's back in the70"s and

80's but they then became too expensive. This is my first dslr. The use of old lenses was a big attraction.

 

These lenses have cost me very little picked up at the market, ebay and op shops. I have an mz50 sitting here unused

as I wanted the auto 100-300 sigma. It also came with a smaller auto zoom lens and bag. All AUD50.00. The camera is

a bargain for this reason.

 

The autofocus in low light is not good. It's preferable to use manual and this you have to get used to as there is no old

fashioned split prism mark. The sensor goes off in manual mode to tell you it's focussed but in some situations such as

a sunset this can be inaccurate.

 

With the manual exposure all the lenses work well you just choose the aperture setting manually and press the green

button which will set the shutter and press the button. You can also set the shutter and press the lock button if you need

to meter off the subject. In some really difficult situations that are not changing rapidly use a light meter.

 

There are no branded pentax K mount lenses that wont fit. I haven't used an adapter as yet as there are so many k

mount lenses available. Just be careful of damage and fungus. I have had 2 disappointments from ebay. The Rikenon

lenses which are very cheap and some are quite good for armchair enthusiasts do have the problem with the pin. You

simply unscrew the three screws , or four on the flange with the bayonette fitting and lift it off, remove the pin and you

have a manual k mount lens. Don't be tempted to try it on the camera before removing the pin. Just be careful and

patient and cover the back lens. There are older sigma lenses that have larger protective flanges for the aperture lever

than the pentax lenses these interfere with the two electrical contacts inside the camera. These contacts were not of

course on the older cameras.

 

I have tried Tokina and Tamron lenses and they fit perfectly. The Carl Zeiss jenar also fits perfectly. Later lenses with

the A setting have electrical contacts for aperture priority and work well. Some of the optics in the old lenses are superb.

Just scour the net for other peoples opinions.

 

I have had a lot of fun with these old lenses and it hones down your skills to use manual everything.

 

I like the camera. It's the right price and lens compatibility is great.

 

Steve