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PC Nikkor 28mm on Fuji S3: which funtions are available?


alpshiker

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I know automatic exposure won't be available for instance. But what about

automatic light balance? Will it work in mixed lighting conditions? Or with a

light balance preset?

 

Any advice on using that lens on digital bodies? I plan on using it for table

settings and the x1.5 crop should make it just right. Even if Photoshop can now

correct perspectives quite well, I guess that it's a plus to be able to compose

the image right. But of course I'm aware that there are some trades, especially

the lack of exposure control. Any experience you would share?

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As Ellis said, CA will probably be more noticeable. It is with the 28mm f/3.5 PC Nikkor on my D2H. However this is easily corrected via software. Other than the fact that it is not a true wide angle perspective correction lens on a DX sensor dSLR, it works as well as on my 35mm film Nikons.

 

Used as you've described (which I've also done), you won't need extreme shifts which, along with careful lighting, should minimize problems.

 

White balance should be no problem. The lens itself does not appear to introduce any color shift.

 

Exposure with perspective control lenses is always a bit tricky. Usually (assuming TTL metering is available), it's best to meter stopped down *before* shifting. Among the few exceptions is the F3. My D2H handles metering well enough with the lens shifted that I occasionally forget this rule of thumb. But I usually get better exposures when I spotmeter before shifting.

 

Since you won't be in much of a hurry, you can use any lens that allow metering with your S3, then swap to the PC Nikkor. (I'm assuming the S3 doesn't allow metering with non-CPU lenses.)

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Ellis, Lex, thanks for your comments. Color aberration is certainly a draw back if it is noticeable. But while I thought I hadn't any left, I could find a non CPU lens in my drawers. I tested it on an S2 body, the S3 being out for service. They probably behave the same on this regard, and the fact is that in manual mode (required to trigger with non CPU lenses), the automatic light balance doesn't work on those bodies. The presets work however. Having to shoot mostly under fluorescent light mixed with halogen spots and daylight (never the same light for two consecutive shots), this automatic balance is a must. I think I will skip the lens and continue using Photoshop to simulate perpendicularity. Thanks again!

 

Paul

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