OT: Full-frame slide mount

I posted this also in the Leica forum, but thought I might find some

useful answers here, as well.<P>

 

Almost always, I shoot print film. Lately, however, I've shot a few

rolls of slide film - and now find myself with four or five images

that I'd like to have scanned for portfolio use.<P>

 

One image, in particular, has critical elements (part of a face) on

the very edge of the frame. When in its mount, this image is weakened

because part of the face is masked. My lab doesn't want to scan the

image outside its mount - which leaves me the option of taking the

frame out and taping it to a negative strip so they can handle it;

or, compromising the image by having it scanned in the mount.<P>

 

Since I expect this issue to "crop" up again (if I continue shooting

slides), I think the best option is to use full frame mounts (which

I've heard are available). Any idea where I might find slide mounts

like this? How do you slide shooters deal with this issue?

Full frame mounts - see thread below... let us know which option you go with w/re to the current images. I'm especially interested, since I've also only started to shoot slides (and getting quickly <b><i>addicted</i></b> to Agfa Scala)...

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=000oIn

Umm Doug, do you project your slides at all? If not, you might want to just not get them mounted in the furure. That way you can scan them in strips...

Thanks, Jack, for the thread - I have no idea why I didn't do a search under "Full-frame slide mount" - didn't even occur to me. I'll be sure to follow up here as soon as I pick something.<P>

 

I've been dying to try Scala myself, though I haven't yet. I can imagine it is addicting (maybe that's why I've been putting it off - given the price and inconvenience).<P>

 

Daryl - Actually, for awhile I asked that my slides be returned unmounted - then I'd cut and mount them myself. But what I found was that the processed film was being sent back tightly rolled - which made it difficult to deal with. Since having them returned mounted cost only pennies more, I decided to try that with these latest rolls. Then, too, I thought it might be nice to try projecting them (though it means buying a projector and screen - which I haven't done yet).

Several ways to procede. Get clear on your viewfinder coverage. Once that's dialed in, allow yourself some room in the shot. Gepe makes a dizzying array of crop mounts that allow fine-tuning the image area. All this is made easier with a 100% viewfinder common to top-of-the line Nikons going back to the original F.

Thanks for the info on Gepe, Gary. I'll check it out. As for the camera/viewfinder coverage: I shoot mostly with an F3HP, so I know its 100%. When on occasion I shoot with an FM2n, I make allowance for its 93% coverage. (The image in question was shot with the F3.)

<p>Hi<br>

I have been having this same question, and it seems to me that the 24mm x 36mm slide mounts made by GEPE that I use are not full frame. I use the Glassless snap-on mount and I suspect about 0.5mm of the vertical axis and 0.5mm - 1.0mm of the horizontal axis is covered by the mount where there is an image exposed. Now this could be the fault of my camera exposing too much on to the film, I use the the AE-1P, but I have not been able to find any viewfinder inaccuracy with that Canon. Does anyone know if there were ever any 35mm slide mounts producer larger than 24mm x 36mm, such as 25mm x 37mm, if so I'd be willing to purchase a large quantity.</p>

<p>On one occasion the guy at the slide mount section at the NYC B&H store told me there was a company that made larger sized mounts which B&H used to carry years ago, and he did say the GEPE 24 x 36 were not full frame. He didn't know that other company name. A few weeks later another sales rep told me that the GEPE 24 x 36 WERE in fact full frame. So I never got a concrete yes or no from B&H.</p>

<p>As a result I have been telling my E-6 lab not to cut the film and they just give it to me in a complete roll. I then view it on my light table and choose the ones I want to scan and then cut them in strips of 5 for the Strip Film Adapter (Nikon SA-21). The only thing that I avoid is cutting a selected frame to be sacnned as the first or last frame of the strip of 5. That way you avoid cutting into frame by mistake and also some some scanners give a light fog to the immediate area next to the frame line if there is no other frame next to it. I think that's because the light leaks and slightly bounces inside the scanner so it may create a bit of fogging over the edge of the scanned area. I think the downside to cutting the film in strips of 5, is that long term they get warped a little, as opposed to a mounted slide that has corner to corner flat support.</p>