Opinions on long term C-5050 or similar?

<p>Summary: How's the reliability long term for the Oly C-5050 or comparable models?</p>

<p>For the past couple of years I've been hoping for that perfect (to me) compact digicam. Apparently nobody is interested in making one just for me. My list of must-have, no compromises or exceptions features includes:</p>

<ul>

<li>Eye-level, preferably optical finder. (Doesn't need to be good, just a quick composition aid.)</li>

<li>Silent shutter.</li>

<li>Fast lens, prime or zoom.</li>

<li>Affordable.</li>

</ul>

<p>That's pretty much it. I don't absolutely need higher than ISO 400 or low noise high ISO performance, but would happily accept it. I'm not allergic to noise/grain and don't care if my edited ISO 400 pix resemble Delta 3200. These are just personal journal type snapshots, nothing fancy.</p>

<p>BTW, this is for very discrete stuff such as shooting live performances from the audience, including ballet and opera - mostly snapshots of my family and friends, not so much the stage itself; church events; weddings where I'm Uncle Joe, not the primary, and don't wanna be a pest; hospitals; blah-blah-blah. Some of y'all may be familiar with my style of candids: my <a href="../photodb/folder?folder_id=908598">baby Stewie project</a> when he was undergoing open heart surgery as an infant, etc.; <a href="../photodb/folder?folder_id=925752">theater snaps from the audience</a>. That sorta stuff. For everything else I use my Nikon SLRs and dSLR.</p>

<p>AF isn't a big deal, I often use "manual focus" with my C-3040Z to zone focus for quick snaps. And its AF is good enough for live theater as long as the lighting is around EV 5 or 6. I'd even be happy with fully manual focus but the "focus by wire" thing with the Micro Four Thirds cameras seems clunky.</p>

<p>Unfortunately, nothing from any manufacturer meets my criteria. So I'm still using my Oly C-3040Z. I had high hopes for the PEN E-P-series but so far none of the three models I've checked quite meet my needs. They don't have virtually silent shutters, and I'd need an accessory shoe optical finder. And none of the other Micro Four Thirds cameras suits me - either the shutters aren't quiet enough, the lenses aren't fast enough or they cost too much.</p>

<p>So...</p>

<p>I'm considering stepping back to the older Oly lineup. I recently read about some mode dial fault with the 5060, so that's out. How's the reliability of the C-5050 long term? The features are very comparable to my C-3040Z but adds the CF media card, which is a big plus since my SmartMedia cards are dying (I'm down to three functional cards, two 128MB and one 64MB).</p>

<p>Any other models you'd suggest?</p>

<p>What is your opinion of what "Long Term" means in the digital age?</p>

<p><br />I don't think any digital camera has a good long-term reliability outlook because manufacturers don't support them with repair parts for extended periods beyond the end of the product cycle and they are not cameras that will be able to be kept up by third-party repair shops like all of the Nikon F2's and others from the 1970's and Contax rangefinders from the 1950's and earlier that still happily transport and expose film.</p>

<p>I am going to send my E1 in for a complete service soon because I do not believe it will continue to be available for an extended period of time</p>

<blockquote>

<p>"What is your opinion of what "Long Term" means in the digital age?"</p>

</blockquote>

<p>All of my Olympus digicams still work, the youngest being the now-eight-year-old C-3040Z. The only reason I ask about the long term reliability of the C-5050 is because I just today heard about some failures with the C-5060.</p>

<p>I'm not concerned about hypothetical issues regarding customer support, parts availability, etc. I'm only concerned about actual experience with the C-5050 or comparable models that might suit my criteria.</p>

<p>[[Apparently nobody is interested in making one just for me.]]</p>

<p>You are a photographer. Most cameras sold are sold to consumers. Therein lies the problem.</p>

<p>For fast lenses, Samsung has the new EX1/TL500 with it's f/1.8-f/2.4 aperture range, but alas you'd need to add your own external viewfinder. I have no idea what Samsung thinks of as "long term" though.</p>

<p>Thanks, Rob, I'll take a peek at the specs for the Samsung. I tried using dpreview's specification sorter doodad but it tends to overlook cameras that could be fitted with optical finders via an accessory shoe. That's a satisfactory substitute for my purposes so I'm also considering the Ricoh GR D.</p>

<p>C-5050 is one of two Olympus models that has infamous Sony CCD failure defect. It could be a risky choice also.</p>

<p>If you considered the C-5060, why not the C-7070? I've been using the C-7070 for the past 6 years. C5050, 5060, and 7070 are great for zone focus because you can programme the camera using My Mode to automatically set zone focus for different focal lengths, and programme the custom button to switch between those focal lengths.</p>

<p>I think focusing overall would be easier on m4/3 than C-x0x0 though. Plus, the DOF too high on C-x0x0 for creative use of focus. I am planning to switch to Micro Four Thirds soon.</p>

<p>C-7070 lens is too slow compared with the excellent f/1.8-2.6 on the earlier C-xxxx series. Hadn't heard about the Sony sensor defect also affecting the C-5050, so I'll check for that.</p>

<p>"Creative" DOF is what I'm trying to avoid. With quick snaps wide open it usually translates to "more photos out of focus". That's one of those things, like bokeh obsession, that doesn't interest me much or influence my photography.</p>

<p>Same reason I prefer 35mm compact rangefinders for candids over my medium format cameras. There are certain situations where a smaller format/sensor is an advantage. This is one of 'em. With the C-3040Z at the "35mm" (7.1mm) wide end, even at f/1.8 I have a pretty good shot at getting the subject in focus even if I snap the shutter before AF has locked. If I zone focus the C-3040Z to around 5-7 feet, I don't even need AF indoors for quick snaps.</p>

<p>I have and still occasionally use the C5060. Built like a tank, flip up screen (better than flip to the side screen), but feels slow now after using more modern stuff. Only 5 mp which doesn't leave a lot of leeway for cropping. I leave it in the sepia mode. Forget about using higher than base ISO, the picture starts to deteriorate even one step up.</p><div></div>

<p>P.S. I think if the camera has survived the first few years without developing the dial problem it probably never will. Mine has spent years (since it was a new current model) under the seat of the car with no ill effects. This is a very solid, heavy, all metal camera.</p>

<p>Why not look for a Canon G5? It has 5MP and a 35-140 equivalent f/2-3 zoom. The G5 takes CF cards and has the same rear screen as the G3. I have a DSLR now but I still use my older G3. In good light its 4MP can still squeeze out a nice 8X10 with minimal cropping. Just don't try to shoot fast moving subjects with any of these oldies. You'll lose your mind.</p>

<p>Thanks, Sanford, you're probably right about both problems. If the C-5060 mode dial problem and C-5050 sensor problem haven't shown up by now the cameras are probably okay.</p>

<p>I mostly use b&w mode for this particular type of stuff, tho' I'll occasionally shoot color and use Noise Ninja or Noiseware for ISO 400 stuff. Again, I'm not allergic to noise so it's not a factor for me.</p>

<p>Jeff, I've tried several Canon digicams and the ergonomics never agree with me. Not a knock against the Canon brand, but something funky about the ergonomics just doesn't fit me. Same with their SLRs, which is why I switched from Canon FD to Nikon about 10 years ago.</p>

<p>BTW, my trick for quick snaps with the old C-3040Z is to preset focus manually to around 5-6.5 feet (no AF lag), stop down as needed for anticipated distance - around f/2.8 indoors, f/4-5.6 outdoors - and use the burst mode. With HQ JPEGs even that ancient digicam is reasonably spritely. I'm still using the same techniques for snaps with digital that I used for decades with film cameras: preset, zone focus, stop down. With tiny sensor digicams this trick works even better because you get more DOF at faster apertures.</p>

<p>Look here: myolympus.org</p>

<p>C-5060 has the same lens as the C-7070. So when you say do not like the C-7070 because of the lens, I'm not sure what to make of that.</p>

<p>David, the C-5060 and C-7070 used a 27-110mm (equivalent) f/2.8-4.8 zoom, a slowpoke compared with the outstanding 35-105mm f/1.8-2.6 zoom used on the C-3040 and C-5050.</p>

<p>That f/1.8-2.6 zoom was in a class by itself at the time (and hasn't been surpassed), which is why I bought the C-3040 years ago. At the time virtually all compact digicams topped out at ISO 400 and that fast zoom made it possible to take shots that would have been impossible otherwise.</p>

<p>One reason I haven't bothered to upgrade my P&S digicam is because most made since the mid-2000's have been a step backward, with slowpoke variable aperture superzooms that forced using higher, noisier ISOs. Since the C-5060, C-7070 and several others from Olympus topped out at ISO 400 I cross them off my list.</p>

<p>Anyway, after comparing specs and user feedback for a few other models, I'm probably going to look for a good used C-5050. It'll be familiar enough, will use the CF cards I already have from my Nikon dSLR and should do the trick for my limited needs for a compact digicam. The only other models that appeal to me are the Ricoh GD Digital (too pricey, even used) and the Samsung TL500 (too new on the market and not readily available). Unfortunately, folks seem to love their C-5050's. I'm not seeing many for sale and the prices are generally over $200, surprising considering how sharply used dSLRs are devalued.</p>

<p>In terms of lens speed, yes the f/1.4 is fast, but since the 5050 tops out at ISO 400 (and it was a noisy ISO 400 if I recall correctly), I would imagine a Panasonic LX-3 (f/2-2.8 lens) would be able to shoot at the same lighting by bumping up the ISO one notch, and the noise would probably be similar. Canon G11 would be another possibility.</p>

<p>One thing to consider is that cameras are like computers in that a common failure mode of older gear is the capacitors lose their ability to hold a charge. I believe the 5050 is past the point where Olympus will fix it any more.</p>

<p>The 5050 had a recall by Olympus where the sensor would stop working. If you are going to buy a 5050, make sure the CCD sensor was replaced by the owner.</p>

<p>Does the Panasonic LX-3 offer an option to disable the LCD screen? One of my no-compromise requirements is the ability to completely shut off the LCD screen for use with an optical finder, including an accessory shoe finder. If not the only option is to somehow block it, such as with a sheet of black paper taped over the screen. Glowinky screens are more a hindrance than a help in the types of uses I have for a compact digicam.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Does the Panasonic LX-3 offer an option to disable the LCD screen?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Yes, you can disable the rear LCD on the LX3. I like mine a lot. I find it quite useful for street...</p>

<p><a><img src="http://static.zooomr.com/images/9192565_db2c43cec3_o.jpg" alt="" width="698" height="466" /></a><br>

ISO 800</p>

<p><a><img src="http://static.zooomr.com/images/9219117_d154c3c95a_o.jpg" alt="" width="698" height="466" /></a><br>

ISO 1600</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks, Leslie. That feature might come in handy if I decide to go with an accessory shoe optical finder. I've seen some good candids taken with the LX-3 so I'm assuming it's pretty responsive. The specs for that model look pretty impressive, especially for the lens. How's the shutter release sound? I'm looking for something as quiet as possible - the C-3040Z sounds about like a ballpoint pen clicking underneath a pile of pillows, barely audible.</p>

<p>I don' use it often nowadays Lex, but I will never sell my C 5050. Served me well indeed. A little tank. Now you have read that the Sony sensor had some defects, big time blooming which led to a recall and mine went back and got replaced. Not all sensors had that problem, but when it happened it was fatal. The lens is retracted when the camera is closed, and takes a goddawful time to come in and out to "periscope depth" so to speak. If you can find a good working model, it will serve you well.<br /> And, although it is kind of straightforward to operate, the little handbook sold by this guy is nice black and white only copy, no need for the color CD, for a grab and quick look at little features vs the little manufacturer handbook for me anyways. C 5050 was the model that turned me on the Oly brand, and I can't say enough good things about it as for durability. The four AA cells last a long time or one can use rechargeables. I just keep AAs..and it is my prime backup model. Limited focal length, but a superb super fast lens..that alone will make it a winner. Be sure the sensor does not fall in the bad boy list of serial numbers when you shop...call Oly and see if it is in the list is my recommendation. Mine never developed the "symptoms" so it is just a cautionary thing, aloha, gs<br /> http://www.shortcourses.com/store/olympus-c5050.html</p>

<p>Thanks, Gerry, I feel pretty much the same way about the C-3040Z - it's a keeper. The silly sorta-floppy SmartMedia cards are the only real flaw in an otherwise excellent camera. And I definitely prefer the AA NiMH batteries over proprietary rechargeables.</p>

<p>BTW, do you use the CLA-1 or other protective tube over your lens? Before buying the C-3040Z the only criticism I'd heard was the fairly fragile lens extension gearing could actually jam or break if the camera was turned on with the lens/body cap in place. First thing I did after getting the C-3040Z was buy the CLA-1 and a step-up ring for a 49mm Oly protective filter. That's been on the camera since the first week, 2002.</p>

<p>Usually when I'm out and about I leave the camera on, so it's ready to go. Gets good life due to the efficient power saver mode. When I'm shooting theater I have everything turned to quite mode, no beeps, boops, no glowwinky LCD screen, etc. And I try to avoid zooming until there's enough noise to cover the whining sound. So far nobody's ever even noticed me taking photos at the opera or ballet. Since I've been on the other side of the stage in live theater, I try to avoid distracting anyone. The pix are nothing special artistically, just snaps of family and friends, but they mean a lot to us.</p><div></div>

<p>Same pic as above, before salvage efforts. Probably more than two stops underexposed. Lots of luminance and chroma noise, but after a few tweaks it's good enough for web display or snapshot sized prints.</p><div></div>

<blockquote>

<p>How's the shutter release sound? I'm looking for something as quiet as possible - the C-3040Z sounds about like a ballpoint pen clicking underneath a pile of pillows, barely audible.<br>

<br></p>

</blockquote>

<p>Sound can be adjusted or completely shut off in menu. AF is good but still not as good as the phase based AF in the GX100 or GRD imo. I often uses the MF mode with auto aperture adjusted dof scale...<br>

<a><img src="http://static.zooomr.com/images/9193048_54945af892_o.jpg" _mce_src="http://static.zooomr.com/images/9193048_54945af892_o.jpg" alt="" height="466" width="698"></a><br _mce_bogus="1"><br>

<br><br>

<a><img src="http://static.zooomr.com/images/9212133_ded8b394d5_o.jpg" _mce_src="http://static.zooomr.com/images/9212133_ded8b394d5_o.jpg" alt="" height="466" width="698"></a><br _mce_bogus="1"></p><p>

 

These were bumped up saturation in pp but the in camera dynamic modes can be used quick and dirty.<br></p>

<p>Lex, I bought this thing called an Olycap which fits like a boot over the lens base assembly, which I guess has a screw on ring at the base as I recall for add on lens adapters but haven't looked for years, dont need them. I like the <em>Olycap</em> boot which I can never lose, not sure it is still made. The camera like so many wants to turn on easily in a bag , where Olympus never quite figured out where to put the on off switch on the trailing top edge. And if it turns on in the bag it makes a whooping sound that always bugged me until one shuts it off and on again...little gripes,well one learns to be careful. <br>

Compare though to the little Nikon P5000 Coolpix, of three or four years later, which has an on/button on the top plate, that has an LED to say I am ON. That camera, btw, can be found at a good price and has a magnesium front panel which suggest some solidity. Both have dinky eye finders, for my tastes but better than no finder, and both have the little flash ready and focus on lights on the side of finder that pop up to disturb vision unlike some of the newer SLR based P and S ones, but one gets used to that. For me, I always look for a flash that will be reliable.( I am a flash person indoors and out.). For the Camedia C 5050 Zoom, Olympus recommended a the time its big FL 40, but they never told anyone later that the FL 20 will do TTL with the camera, just not in the little manual with the FL 20 flash, weird, true, I had to read it online. I bought the Nikon Coolpix partly so my wife could shoot with the LCD option,which is better implemented on the Nikon Coolpix P 5000 and P 5100 ... series I guess. Both seem to give me good results for what I do,which does not challenge either one...Nikon's little SB 400 flash is much better,if one likes the idea of a tilt up tube, and the price aint bad either. Both of these can be had used, i am thinking for a couple bills, I saw a refurb Coolpix for about 250.00. And I expect both would serve you well.</p><div></div>

<p>Hey man, spring loaded Olycap still made,so it says, I just checked. And the rubber material lasted all these years and it still fits and protects the lens sleeve and all. Hot dog...<br>

http://olympuscap.homestead.com/</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks, Gerry, I saw a listing on Amazon for that boot doodad but it was illustrated separately, not mounted on a camera, so I couldn't quite figure out what it did.</p>

<p>The problem with the CLA-1 is it turns a relatively compact camera into an ugly snoot-nosed beast, not much more compact than a small current model dSLR (and probably larger than the E-420, which is a sexy li'l thing). On the plus side, since my C-3040Z has worn the CLA-1 and Oly skylight 1A filter (cannibalized from my OM-1) since the first week, the lens still looks spankin' new. I've used that camera in all kinds of weather and it's never hiccuped. It's actually proven more reliable than my Nikon D2H, and that magnesium crinkle-black finish looks better than the rubber armor on my Nikon, which has begun peeling up around the corners and edges.</p>

<p>That's another reason I'm partial to the Olympus, especially the C-xxxx series - darned things are durable. Unfortunately, that may be why I can't find a C-5050 for much under $200 too. Surprised me, I really expected they'd be selling for less than $100 by now.</p>