OM-3 Spot metering question

<p>Hi. <br /> I read the manual, but I want to be sure that I understand the spotmetering in the OM-3 correct. <br /> <br /> Normally with a modern camera with spot I would press the release button half way down and use the settings the camera suggests. <br /><br /> With the OM-3 the manual says: <br /> 1. Point the spot-area on the area you want to photograph.<br /> 2. Press the spot metering button.<br /> 3. The metered value is displayed by a little "vertical rhombus sign" :-)<br /> 4. If you move the camera, another little "vertical rhombus sign" will appear that indicates the metered value in the middle of the frame.<br /> 5. Set the bar graph tip to the fixed point between the two arrows.<br /> <br />My question is that the "vertical rhombus sign" moves with the bar graph when I change either of the values. Should it not stay the same place all the time compared to the middle of the two arrows to indicate whether it will over or underexpose the picture?<br /><br /> Or is it because it stores and memorises the value and then follow the bar graph to show me that it will under or overexpose the same mount no matter how much I adjust the apperture og shutterspeed?<br /><br /> Can someone explaine this in an easy way for me to understand this?:-)<br /> Just want to be sure that I will come home with correct exposed pictures. <br /> Thanks.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>The spot meter basically doesn't care what settings you have the aperture or shutter speed or even what lens you have. It measures the light from an exact point in the center of the frame. When you change your aperture or shutter speed, your goal is basically to get the spot-metered point to be in the center.... or how ever many stops away from center you want based on your creative ideas on how to expose the image. You can press the spot meter up to 8 times in a row to generate an average reading of the scene. </p>

<p>Yes ok. But why is the rhombus symbol placed a little to the right of the tip of the bar graph?<br>

Is there any reason why it is there always? Why is it not at the end of the bar graph?<br>

That is actually my question boiled down:-)</p>

<p>OK - I'm extrapolating from the OM-4T here, but the readouts should be similar. The bar graph represents the exposure setting, a value the camera comes up with, integrating the light levels, film ISO setting, shutter speed and set aperture. If you didn't use the spot metering button, the bar graph is effectively a match needle metering readout. To get a "correct" exposure, according to the camera, you have to adjust the shutter speed or the aperture until the tip of the bar graph coincides with the central index mark.<br /> However, once you press the spot metering button, you're telling the camera that this is the exposure value you want to expose to. If you move the central metering spot to another portion of the scene and press the spot button again, you have now told the camera that you also want to expose to this <em>new</em> value, so the camera will try to come up with an exposure that splits the difference - an average exposure value that is represented by the bar graph - so it will place the tip of the bar graph midway between the two rhombi. To then achieve that exposure, you have the "center the needle" - adjust the shutter or aperture to place the tip of the bar graph in the center of the exposure index mark. Because the rhombi represent exposure values relative to the cameras calculated average exposure, rather than absolute shutter speed/aperture combinations, the rhombi move along with the bar graph as you adjust the bar graph to the center.<br /> By "tagging" parts of the scene with the spot meter, you're talling the camera what parts of the scene you want the camera to expose correctly. You can bias this by "spotting" on one portion multiple times, so the camera will concentrate on exposing this portion, while de-emphasizing the other "spotted" portions. The bar graph represents the cameras proposed exposure solution, so the end of the graph will end up somewhere between the "brightest" and the "darkest" rhombi.<br /> Clear as mud.</p>

<p>Excellent. Thank you very much David. <br>

That is really smart. I wanted a camera with single spot metering so I could practice the art of compensating manually for huge white areas og black areas etc. But I see that this camera does it all for me. <br>

Sad but still pretty smart. <br>

But if I only use single spot metering I guess I can still compensate by choosing a longer shutterspeed og another apperture etc. </p>

<p>Hmm.. <br>

But anyway. Thank very much again. Happy easter.</p>

<p>The multi spot metering is very very useful.<br>

You can take a few spots from the same part of the scene, then 1 from a brighter part for example. Works brilliantly. For landscapes I would often take a spot from the bright sky, and maybe a spot from a darker shadow, then 2 (or more) spots from the foreground because I wanted the metering to be more partial to the foreground without blowing the sky. Got perfect results every time. Hardly ever bracketed exposures.</p>

<p>btw, you can use single spot metering for photographs of huge areas of white without using the highlight button. Just take a spot reading from something with a mid-grey reflectance. Grass, concrete, blue sky etc.. Of course, it is easier just to hit the highlight button...that's why you have an OM3!!!</p>

<p>Damn! I wish they made digital backs for them....or even better, Olympus gives us a Digital Om (like they did with the PEN). Can imagine it being quite popular - OM cameras have such a loyal following I'm sure they could make money from it.</p>

<p>Hi again William. <br>

Yes it is really smart. Am playing with it as I write this. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>The great thing about the OM-3/4 spot metering system is that you can use a single spot reading and use your experience to figure out the optimum exposure for the entire scene using the spot reading as your reference, or you can use as many spot readings as you like (within reason) to fully map the scene, emphasizing and/or de-emphasizing as you go, and let the camera come up with the exposure solution. For the photographer willing to take the time to dissect the scene and think through the exposure, there has never been a more flexible metering system in a 35mm SLR - it's like brain food for the film photographer. My OM-4T has the same metering system, although with the multispot, which is effectively permanently engaged auto-exposure lock, I almost never have to resort to manual. Good luck with the OM-3 - it really is one of the coolest SLRs out there.</p>

<p>One cool thing about the multi-spot feature is that if you know the latitude of the film you are using, you can basically lay out the darks and lights in the image right there in the viewfinder... effectively previewing the range of the negative. This is especially useful with slide films that tend to blow out easily. Have fun!</p>

<p>Hi again and thank you for all the help. <br>

It seems the camera has an error (I can take 2 pictures and then I have to forward the film twice to shoot the 2 next. Then it happens again and again over and over. Expensive film), so I will exchange it when the holidays are over. But since they dont have any other, I will change it to a Contax S2 instead. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>I'd get it fixed and keep it.</p>

<p>The OM3 is one of the best cameras you can buy.</p>

<p>They do offer 1 year warranty on used cameras. But still... <br>

I will learn more with the contax, since it only have single spot metering, that will force me to learn the zonesystem. <br>

And I like the fact that it is mechanical and can function without batteries.</p>

<p>I disagree, the OM-3's ability to register multiple exposure values on a single bar graph enables the photographer to precisely measure the different reflectances of the various elements within a scene (eg, this element is 3 stops brighter then the other, which is itself 1 stop brighter than a third, etc etc).No other SLR that I'm aware of (except the OM-4) will allow you to simultaneously compare the reflectances of multiple elements. I understand your rationale of restricting yourself to spot metering in order to "force" yourself to think through the exposure in terms of the individual elements rather than simply letting center-weighted averaging or matrix metering do the job. However, if you really only want to use a single spot reading, you only have to press the spot button once. You still have the option of multiple spot reading if you choose to use it, of if the scene requires it. More importantly, IMO, the S2 meter readout is a series of shutter speed LEDs, which will allow you to evaluate the exposure in 1 stop increments. The OM-3s readout displays the exposure in 1/3 stop increments, allowing a more precise evaluation of exposure and reflectance. Further, the S-2 meter is only semi-coupled - the display responds to the light level, set aperture and film ISO and displays the recommended shutter speed as a solid LED, with the actual set speed displayed as a separate blinking LED. In contrast, the OM-3 meter display is fully coupled, responding to shutter speed, aperture, light and ISO. I agree it's a personal preference, but I've used both types, an OM-4T (similar to the OM-3) and a Contax 137MA (similar 2 LED system to the S2) and IMO the Olympus system is way better.<br>

I'm not saying the S2 isn't a very decent camera, but you're paying a premium for rarity and the Contax brand cachet, and you're getting a pretty standard camera with relatively unsophisticated metering, a very pedestrian exposure display and nothing else. Available lenses range from good (Yashica) to great, but ungodly expensive (Carl Zeiss). In contrast, the OM-3 is a full system camera, well sealed/weatherproofed, with as big and bright a viewfinder as you'll find anywhere, adjustable diopter, a unique and extraordinary metering system, TTL flash exposure and access to a huge range of excellent (and relatively inexpensive) Zuiko lenses. And btw, the OM-3 is also mechanical - it functions perfectly without batteries.</p>

<p>The OM3(ti) is the best 35mm film camera you will ever use. It was the flagship OM camera, and that is saying something.<br>

Just fabulous. I can't tell you to keep it, but you are making a mistake getting rid of it ;)</p>

<p>That was actually very convincing:-)<br>

I like the 1/3 stop increments and i did not know it was mechanical as well. <br>

And I do like the multispot option. It's just annoying that i already had a bad experience, but I guess it's better it happened now than in 1 year when the warranty has expired.<br>

Phew.. I have to admit that the multispot metering system is smart, but a big jump for me. It seems a bit overwhelming, but again that is why I was looking for a fully manual camera with spotmetering, so that I don't just use semiautomatic settings all the time and stay on this level.<br>

Hmm. Maybe i should keep it and get to know it 100%. <br>

But the user manual is not that thorough. I read a book about the zonesystem and I feel I have the basic knowledge, but I still think it's hard to apply the technique to the OM-3 multispot. <br>

You wouldn't by any chance have a great link to a very advanced, but pedagogic and thorough guide to using it? :-)</p>

<p>Wait.. never mind. I read the post @ Mar 31, 2010; 11:20 a.m. a few times again and this time I think i got it:-)<br /> The bar graph moves for example +2. 1/3 and stays at the same shutterspeed for example 1/500. If I then move the Bar graph back to the central index point it now says 1/2000 in shutterspeed. Very simple, but very different from what i'm used to in moderne cameras:-)<br /> <br /></p>

<p>My point (when I finally get around to making one) is that as you grow as a photographer, and your understanding of exposure becomes more sophisticated, you will never outgrow an OM-3. In the meantime, start basic. Take your scene, identify a mid-tone element within it and take a single spot reading off it. Now adjust your shutter and/or aperture so that the tip of the bar graph sits on the central index mark. That's it - you're set to expose. Remember that, although the aperture ring is indented at full stops, you can fine tune the exposure by setting the aperture ring between clicks. If you've selected your mid-tone correctly, you'll get a decently exposed negative, if not, your neg will be off. Take notes as you shoot and refer back to them as you inspect your negs. You'll pretty soon learn to identify the different elements within the scene, and then you're well on your way.</p>

<p>It was just confusing that I had to do double work, by first setting the bar graph at the central index point, and then press spot, and the set the bar graph back to the central index point. <br>

Or I could calculate the extra diffence it comes up with compared to where it started out without me setting it first. So its either double work or calculating:-)<br>

But i guess it just takes split seconds. </p>

 

<p>Aha... it's great that I am able to fine tune the apperture ring. Actually I have been wondering if I could do that on other cameras as well:-)<br /> one thing is that it moves and another is if it makes a diffenrece. But I guess the camera does not know if it is at a full stop or in between:-) <br /> That was very important that I just realized that. Thanks.</p>

<p>I have one last question and then I think I got it with the multispot metering. <br>

I want to take a picture and the camera says iso 400, 1/125 and f 5,6. <br>

The scene is just a wall in the background and a lamp to my left close to me. I want to meter the background first. The bar graph goes to -3 stops. The first rhombus symbol appears as always, and always the same place compared to the bar graph.<br>

Now I want to meter the lamp as well. I move the camera and press spot again. The bar graph moves to -1 stop and the second rhombus symbol appears at +1. 1/2 stop. <br>

I then move the bar graph back to the central index point and the difference is 1/60 th shutterspeed.<br>

I understand that. The camera is doing what it can to split the diffence between the wall in the background and the lamp. <br>

But I do not get the rhombus symbols. Why are they placed where they are? What can I see from their position? They do not even have to be there in order for me to take the picture I just took?<br>

What am I missing?</p>

<p>No I figured it out. The symbols have nothing to do with the bar graph, they just tell me the number of stops between them and the scene etc. It's a kind of a graph by it self. I don't need it unless I multispot meter. And I only need it for my own information in case I want to know the number of stops between the different things in the scene. </p>

<p>Great. Finally. <br>

Thank you all once again, and for your patience:-)</p>

<p>The diamonds just show you where the areas you metered are in relation to your exposure. As you change the aperture and shutter-speed, the diamonds slide back and forth across the scale. It's actually a great lesson in the zone system because you can pick and choose where you want those metered areas to appear in the negative relative to middle grey. You can also use the Highlight and Shadow buttons to base the exposure on what part of the image you want to be black or white (but not under or over exposed) instead of basing it on middle grey. </p>

<p>When you use multi-spot metering, the beginning of the dotted line below the diamonds represents the AVERAGE of those multiple readings. So you would adjust the aperture or shutter speed until the beginning of the dotted line is at the > | < point. Say you wanted to meter a person's face as well as their dark hair and white shirt. The goal of the photo is to make sure the face is properly exposed but the hair isn't under and the shirt isn't over. The camera doesn't know this, so you tell it this by doing multiple spot-meterings on the face... you can even meter different parts of the face to be sure you get a nice average of the whole face. Of course, multi-spotting a face isn't as important on the OM3 as the OM4, because that is usually used for overriding auto-exposure... but it CAN be very useful in high-contrast scenes and low latitude film to make sure your subject is on. </p>

<p>Yes - the little rhombi represent the <em><strong>relative</strong></em> reflectance of the things you measure when you "spot" them. They are not an absolute measure of exposure. Lets do a hypothetical based on your example - your camera is set on f/5.6, 1/125, ISO400. If you place the spot on the wall and press the "spot" button, the camera places a rhombus at -3 (3 stops to the right of the central index mark). The bar also stops at that -3 stop point. Since you've only input one meter reading, that's what the camera will work on. It's telling you that, as the controls are set, the wall will be 3 stops underexposed, so you have the option of setting the camera to 1/15 @ f.5.6, or 1/125 @ f/2.0 or some combination that will move the bar and the rhombus to the central index. Lets say, however, you want to meter for the light also, so with the camera still at 1/125 @ f/5.6, you place the central spot on the lamp and press the spot button. The camera places a rhombus at +1.5 stops (1.5 stops to the left of the central index). Again, this is not an absolute value, the camera is telling you however, that the lamp is 4.5 stops brighter than the wall. You have now given the camera two pieces of exposure information, and it tries to calculate an exposure solution by averaging the two, so the bar extends to ~ -2/3 stop. The camera is telling you that to get the average exposure for the two elements you have "told it about", you need to increase the exposure by ~ 2/3 stop to place the bar graph on the central index. So, you can drop the shutter to 1/60 and maybe tweak the aperture, maybe not. Of course, as you adjust the settings, the bar moves to the left, as do the two rhombi, so the "wall" rhombus now sits at ~-2 stops, and the "lamp" rhombus sits at ~ +2 1/3 stops. They remain 4.5 stops apart, as they should, because regardless of what shutter/aperture combination you choose, the lamp is still 4.5 stops brighter than the wall.<br /> So now, what to do with the information? If you take the picture now, and the cameras suggested exposure, the wall will be ~2 stops underexposed, and the lamp ~ 2 stops overexposed. Which element of the pic is the one you're trying to capture? If it's the wall, you might accept some serious overexposure of the lamp, so you set a slower shutter speed, which increases the exposure, so that the bar graph heads left, into the "+" territory, the "lamp" rhombus goes to +3 or +4 stops, but the "wall" rhombus moves leftwards towards the central index mark. If you take the pic now, the wall will be correctly exposed, at the expense of overexposing the lamp by ~4.5 stops. Might be OK if you're shooting color negative film. Let's say, however, that you really want to capture the lamp, and the wall is less critical, so you set a faster shutter speed (1/500) to underexpose. The bar goes to -2, the wall rhombus goes to -4, and the lamp rhombus is now approximately on the central index, and if you shoot now, the lamp will be well exposed, although the wall will be under.<br /> This is the beauty of the multispot system, The camera is telling you - giving you actual hard numbers - about how all of the elements in the scene relate to each other, all displayed simultaneously along a bar graph. and you can do this with up to 9 different elements - you can have the entire range of "zones" arrayed in your viewfinder. It's suggesting an exposure that will give you the best average, but more importantly, it's giving you all the information you need to make an educated decision about how you want to expose the picture. No other camera does this. I would go so far as to say that there's no better camera out there to learn about photography.</p>

<p>"I wanted a camera with single spot metering so I could practice the art of compensating manually for huge white areas og black areas etc."</p>

<p>Hey Sarah, I also own the Olympus OM-3 camera and I think you and I are probably the only ones in this thread, maybe the whole forum that actually own this very rare camera! What David Caroll has been saying about OM-3's spot/multi spot meter functions is correct. What nobody hasn't mentioned yet is the highlight/shadow buttons which are part of the spot meter. Here is photo of my camera and the highlight/shadow buttons and the copy of the Book B Creative manual. The highlight/shadow spot meter is a very neat feature of the OM-3. I would keep the OM-3 camera instead of the Contax hands down, as David mentioned it a fully mechanical camera and will operate without batteries. It is also one of the finest 35mm SLR cameras ever made not to mention the rarest OM camera. My OM-3 camera is over 25 years old and it performs flawless both in the studio and location. Congratulations and you will have lots of fun with your OM-3 camera!</p><div></div>

<p>OM-3 Creative brochure</p><div></div>