elliot1 Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 <p>I just bought the E-P1 and am quite impressed. The on-board flash seems pretty good but I am considering buying the FL-14. Just wondering if someone who uses the FL-14 could comment on it. Thanks in advance.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
godfrey Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 <p>If you mean the E-PL1 with the on-board flash unit, it seems to me it would be more sensible to buy an FL36R vs a FL14. The FL14 is the compact attachment flash for the E-P1/E-P2, since they don't have a built in flash. The FL36R will net you a lot more power and flexibility in use. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elliot1 Posted April 23, 2010 Author Share Posted April 23, 2010 <p>You are correct - the camera is the E-PL1. I don't necessary want a huge flash. I am trying to downsize which is why I bought the E-PL1 in the first place. The FL36R looks like a 'real' flash size wise. I am just wonder how much better (if at all) the FL-14 will be over the built-in flash.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew_newton Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 <p>Just talking out my ear but very, very little. I am not sure of the flash power of the built in E-PL1 flash, but with a GN of 46/14 (ft/m) means that is a bit more powerful than the built in flash (with a GN of 10, I assume 10m, not 10ft). It also has the perk of not draining the E-PL1's batteries.<br> It doesn't do bounce flash and a diffuser looks no easier to attach to the E-PL1 than to the built in flash (IE really hard to do).</p> <p>So really all you get is a bit more power and not draining the E-PL1's batteries, oh and maybe a slight chance of reducing redeye, but the E-PL1's built in flash and the FL-14 seem to be at almost the same height, so there may not be a difference there.</p> <p>Frankly, spending that much money, I'd get a full featured flash to use for the times when I need a better flash. Otherwise I'd stick with the built in unit for everything the FL-14 can do.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
godfrey Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 <p>As Matthew responded. I don't think there's any great benefit over the standard built-in flash unit with the FL-14. I'd get an accessory flash that had a real advantage to it if I was going to spend money for an external flash. </p> <p>Flash units are by there nature largish, clumsy devices. It's the nature of the beast. The FL36R is compact and reasonably powerful, has a full range of features that are useful from dedicated operation to full manual control, and has the tilt/swivel head. It's about 5x more powerful too, and provides a much higher standoff for direct flash to minimize red-eye. For $220 vs the FL-14 @ $160, it's well worth it. </p> <p>If you don't want the extra bulk, it would be better to work with the built-in, accept its limitations, and maybe consider devices/attachments to diffuse or otherwise modify its output. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akira Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 <p>Elliot, according to the Olympus website, the GN of the built-in flash of E-PL1 is 7 and that of FL-14 is 14, both at ISO 100. So, you will gain two more stops with FL-14, which may make sense.</p> <p>That said, you may want to look at FL-20 which is older but fully compatible with E-PL1, and its GN is 20@ISO100 and fairly small. If you do not need to bounce, I would recommend FL-20.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
godfrey Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 <p>@Akira:</p> <p>My understanding is that the FL20 will only allow auto-flash with the Micro-FourThirds bodies, not full auto-ttl dedication. I would love to be wrong on that. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akira Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 <p>Godfrey, the good news is that you seem to be wrong on that. :D</p> <p>I've referred to Olympus' website and have read the downloaded manual (page 103 in the Japanese manual) of E-PL1. According to both, FL-20 is as fully functional as FL-14 with E-PL1. You can use all of Auto, TTL-Auto and Manual modes.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
godfrey Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 <p>That's good to hear, if true.</p> <p>I know from my own experience testing it that it does not work in full auto-TTL dedicated mode with the G1/GF1/GH1, while the FL36 and FL50 are. I'm skeptical unless I actually test these things ... I've seen too many errors in documentation. ;-)</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akira Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 <p>The official compatibility chart tells that FL-20 is NOT compatible with any of Panasonic m4/3 bodies. So, you proved that it was correct. :) I use FL-50 with my G1: it is fully functional.</p> <p>I'm also aware of possible mistakes in the documents. That's why I referred to two different sources, which was the best thing I could do at this moment.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curt_schimmels Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 <p>One other value of picking up the FL36R is that it can be remotely triggered by the E-PL1, which could be a major benefit if you decide to do alternate lighting.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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