Old Vivitar 285s

<p>Thought I would start a new thread. My interest is photographing watercolor paintings. I do have two old Vivitar 285 flashes (not the HV version). But I have very little experience with off camera flash. What I would need to trigger these two flashes? I am shooting a fairly old Pentax DSLR. Wireless is one option. Suggestions for using these flashes as such welcome. Another might be to use a Wein Safe Sync with cable connections to the flashes. Thanks for any help.</p>

Got a flash meter? It might help.

<p>First of all, can you have the voltage at the sync cord tested to be sure whether you can safely attach one of these to a camera via a long sync cord or (for other subjects) use it in the camera's hot shoe. Check the voltage that your camera's sync system will allow and make the comparison. If they don't match up, you HAVE to use an interface at the hot shoe to keep from serious damage to the camera's innerds.</p>

<p>If everything checks out, you can set one or both on slaves fired from a sync cord or by using another flash on camera but pointed to the ceiling to avoid it's light contaminating that from the copy positioned 285's. The suggestion about a flash meter is valid. Copying art is very exacting work if you wish to capture the nuances of the painting.</p>

<p>Cheap radio slaves. A few bucks on ebay. </p>

<p>I have used 3 methods over the years, Tim mentions a 4th.<br>

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1) Two wireless triggers, I use Yongnuo RF-602 (about $25). The newer RF-603 models are more versatile, but I have not used them. Available on Amazon. They sell a Canon & Nikon model, these will include cables to fire the shutter also. Either should work with a Pentax, worst case, you may need to tape over the extra contacts on the hot shoe.<br>

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2) 2 PC cords with a Y-connection. Y-connections are hard to find, I make my own. I always use a Wein Safe Sync, even if the voltages are compatible, the PC connector on the camera wears out easily.<br>

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3) One PC cord + Safe Sync and put the second flash on an optical slave.<br>

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Place the two flashes about 45 degrees from the artwork, one on each side. Put them rather far away so the light will be even, 4 times the size of the artwork if you can. Use manual output, use a flash meter or trial and error to get the exposure right.</p>

<p>Any sort of radio trigger would be total overkill when the flashes are only 2-3 feet from the camera. Do use a Wein Safe Sync since you're uncertain about the trigger voltage. Plug one in with a long PC cord. Either user a Y connection (actually the ones I've seen more often are a three-way splitter) to connect the second flash. If you have one laying around you could use a Wein peanut optical slave on the second, but the splitter and cords would be cheaper.</p>

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<p> Do use a Wein Safe Sync since you're uncertain about the trigger voltage.</p>

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<p>Or measure the voltage.</p>

<p>"Any sort of radio trigger would be total overkill when the flashes are only 2-3 feet from the camera."- Why? Distance really isn't the issue here.<br>

A Safe-Sync will actually cost you more than a cheap radio trigger kit and still needs a pair of tangly and unreliable cable connections and a splitter to fire off two flashes. A radio kit of one TX and two RXs does the job of safeguarding the camera <strong> and</strong> connecting the flashes. So it's one cheap purchase and job done! Plus the radio triggers will come in more than handy for any other off-camera flash need.</p>

<p>Oh, and BTW having the flashes only 2 or 3 feet apart is almost a sure-fire way to get uneven lighting and glare off a frame or glass. The lights should be about twice that distance away, minimum, and more if the artwork is bigger than about 18" across.</p>

<p>Cable (with safe-sync) to one flash and something as simple as <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/63118-REG/">Wein Peanut</a> to trigger the other.</p>

<p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<p>First let me congratulate you on your most excellent vivitar 285s.. they will probably out last you, <br>

I like the 283s as they have a bit more power and the shape of the head lends them to velcroing stuff to them<br>

On all 285 the trigger voltage is around 12v volt or less i had 1 at 12.5v and 1 at 5v or sumthing like<br>

The best way to trigger them is a total no brainer and that is with cheap radio triggers, i recommend the Yongnuo rf-203.. i have 6 and found them to be 99.9 reliable.. on a line of sight test i find they still triggered at almost 200 yards i ran out of space so not find the limit .. its a no brainer as all the other recommendations are as expensive or more!, than the triggers but not as versatile ..with sync cables you have to get the best quality you can and you will still find you have to tweak them with a pair of needle nosed pliers with regular use even if you don't trip over them ..the optical slave may be ok for what you need but if say you whant to use your flash outside in bright sunlight for fill then that will be a different storey you will find they only work at a very short range</p>

<p>Dave</p>

<p>I am getting back into wedding photography. It has been several years, but I used those Vivitar 285, 283 remotely using the Pocket Wizard. You have to make the connection your self by cutting the cord that came with the flash and connecting them to a standard 1/8 inch plug you get anywhere. That is the same plug that you use for a standard headphone, which is the same plug that the Pocket Wizard takes.It is a pain to do, since the wires in the chord from the flash is really small, but you do it once and that is it. The 1/8th inch plug you get anywhere like Radio Shack or Fry's Computer. You can even use the chord from the headphones if you have an extra one.<br>

The 285 is really great because it has a built in variable power adjustment. I mount the flash on an umbrella holder and bouncing the flash off the umbrella. You can't use auto this way, since the sensor will face the umbrella. They have remote chords for the sensor, but probably hard to find. The flash have plenty of power even using the umbrella. Since my application are for fill flash, the minimum setting 1/16th power is what I use, pretty close to the subject, feathering the umbrella for soft transition fill. I use a Sekonic light meter to meter the balance of ambient to flash ration. It is perfect since it will trigger the Pocket Wizard as well.<br>

Please check out my <a href="http://www.weddingphotos4me.com">blog</a>. I am still developing it but plan on putting some info on this portable lighting stuff.</p>