North facing windows

What time of day is advised to shoot for portraiture?

Probably early or late day like every other recommedation for

shoooting is... probably don't even need to be asking this but oh well

Any info appreciated

Thanks

Hi,

 

Sorry Matthew, I don't have an answer, only an added question. Why is a north facing window so important. What does it add in compare to a South window, softer and more spread light?

If you look through a north-facing window, you most probably will see stuff brightly lit outside, and in the same time, the sun will never directly shine through the window. So you get a large softbox. Of course, at the southern hemisphere, one should go for the south facing window, since there in the winter the Sun migrates towards North, not South - i think ;o)

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Related to the original question, I think it depends on what is outside of the window. If you have tall buildings closeby, north facing window won't be of much use unless you wait for the correct minutes when the sunlight finds a narrow way between the buildings to shine on something bright in front of the window... If you have a big parking place or a beach or snowy hills or something flat and reflecting, midday should be the same as evening or mornig, just brighter.

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<center> <img border=2 src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=2086138"> <p><i>

By the way, it's not ALWAYS bad if you have direct light falling on your subject through that window</i></center>

Any window through which the sun does not shine directly, will produce the same effect as a north facing window. As another poster has noted, such a window acts as a diffuse single light source. So in answer to your question, if you are shooting indoors, using window light, high noon is probably best, producing maximum, indirect light. If you are shooting outdoors, and want the same kind of diffuse lighting that a window provides, you need to find shade, which can be very scarce at noon when shadows are short, but if you can find some kind of overhead cover, like a carport, or awning, or tree etc., you're all set. If you want harder, more contrasty light from direct sun, morning or evening will provide the lowest angles, reducing the problem of distracting, unattractive facial shadows. Hope that helps. Good luck.<div></div>

The practice of having a studio with north facing windows dates to the 14th and 15th centuries, when artists need to have consistent light in which to paint. The north light gave them several advantages, which include:

 

1) a dependable light source that did not have bright beams of light coming through the window to upset the lighting inside or to impair their visual perception of their subject;

 

2) a consistent light source that did not have dramatic changes in brightness and temperature as the day progressed;

 

3) a relatively cool temperature bias which, as they compensated with color mixing, usually gave a warmer and more pleasing color balance in other lighting conditions.

 

It isn't nearly as important today with all of the lighting and correction tools that we have available, but it is good to understand the principle.

Thanks guys, hope that answered your question Mark.

additional to Stanley's #3: "...did not have dramatic changes in brightness and temperature <i>or direction</i> as the day progressed." In a southern facing window, the shadows and light will move to opposite sides of the subject as the sun traverses the sky from morning to late afternoon. <p>Painters can let their brain "white balance", so the bluish color temp of a clear northern sky becomes neutral as your "eyes" re-calibrate... t

My understanding of using 'north light' is basically using diffuse skylight for your lighting instead of harsh direct sunlight.

 

Diffuse light is desirable for most forms of classical portraiture, especially female subjects. Harder light can be useful in bringing out the strength in male subjects. Keep in mind that if you are using 'north light' (or skylight) as your primary light source the colour temperature is very high, leaving a marked blue cast on your subject. A warming filter such as an 81B can compensate for this if you are using slide film.