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Nikon Z6ii + FTZ + 500mm f4 AFS gives fEE Error.


mike_halliwell

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The above sums it up.

 

The aperture ring is locked to f22.

 

The lens has a knackered AFS focus motor and a repair was attempted but no spares are available.

 

It works just fine in MF with my D850 with the aperture fully controllable from the body.

 

Not only can I not get past the error, but there seems to be no Control Aperture with Ring option... (D850 Menu f4)

 

In short, it won't work at all.

 

I've got a dumb Nikon F > Z mount adapter somewhere, but thought I'd ask here before searching for it.....;)

 

It seems you cannot tell the FTZ to be dumb...:(

 

Am I missing something obvious...?

 

Any ideas?

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I was just thinking you might contact Birna Rorslett who has a deeper understanding of how the lens CPUs work and what is needed for compatibility with mirrorless. She might be able to help you figure out what is wrong and if perhaps a CPU replacement in the lens would make the lens compatible also with Z cameras. If original Nikon CPUs for this lens are not available, it might be possible to use a third-party or a custom-made one. Edited by ilkka_nissila
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Not only can I not get past the error

Does the aperture ring on your 500 have the little tab that is supposed to engage the post at the 8 o'clock position of the FTZ telling the camera that the lens is set to the minimum aperture (they can break off on occasion)? The fact that the lens is working on the D850 is immaterial in this regard as the position of the aperture ring is sensed via the Ai tab, not via that extra tab on the aperture ring (which is used on the consumer DSLRs that do not have the Ai coupler).

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Good thinking.

 

I'm guessing something's been fundamentally changed in the comms. system so that it's fine with D and not with Z.

 

In-case anyone wants to know, it's the first AF-S 500/4 D IF-ED version.

 

EDIT. Just did a small test. The lens works just fine if I don't completely lock the lens onto the FTZ. The shutter speed shows and the aperture is f--. If i rotate to lock the lens there's various whirs and cluncks and fEE appears.

 

In the not-quite-locked position the aperture shuts down to the aperture-ring set value when the shutter is triggered.

 

EDIT 2. The same happens if I rotate the lens + FTZ > Z6ii out of lock.

Edited by mike_halliwell
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What happens if you just depress the switch on the FTZ without a lens being mounted? Have you verified that the aperture ring tab on the 500 really pushes that FTZ post down? I am talking about the switch that's visible in the 8 o'clock position of the FTZ in the left image here (sorry for linking to Ken Rockwell's page but he does have the best image of an FTZ): Nikon FTZ Lens Adapter Compatibility & Review ?
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Have you verified that the aperture ring tab on the 500 really pushes that FTZ post down?

 

And the Gold Star goes to Dieter!

 

No it doesn't, and oddly there's nothing anywhere near to it on the lens mount to touch it. Around the other side, nearer the top, yes.

 

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Maybe the lens mount has been modded?

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OK, just had a real close look on the mount and there's a very small 'scar' at the 8 o'clock position!

 

My little tab is GONE....:eek:

 

The fact that the lens is working on the D850 is immaterial in this regard as the position of the aperture ring is sensed via the Ai tab, not via that extra tab on the aperture ring (which is used on the consumer DSLRs that do not have the Ai coupler).

.. and there-in lay the answer!

 

Guess I can just wedge a matchstalk in the gap for now...:p

Edited by mike_halliwell
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Just a switch to confirm that the aperture is indeed set to the minimum aperture on lenses so equipped.

So, on a lens not equipped, ie a completely manual lens, say a T-Mount lens and adapter with no tab, it locks-up? Eh?

 

I see what it's for, but it seems daft to lock up completely without one.

 

or is the problem that the lens chip saying one thing and the FTZ saying something different?

 

ie, if i taped over the pins on the 500mm f4 it would work just fine?

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I had a similar problem as here, on a D3200, which has the same min aperture switch. I found that there's enough slop in the linkage of some lenses to allow the lens to lock in without pushing the switch down all the way. If your lens does have an intact tab, it can damage the ramp on the switch, so be careful.

 

I found in my case that a very slight burnishing of the sharp corner on the lens tab solved the problem. You don't need to file it, just burnish with smooth tool to take the sharpest point off the tab.

 

If the FTZ adapter is like those low end cameras (and now the D7500 too, I guess), manual lenses, T-mounts and the like won't function except in manual mode, but do not return an FEE error. Only chipped lenses with aperture rings will do that.

 

You can put a little shim, wood or cardboard or the like, between the aperture ring and the tab, to make it function, but of course you'll have to remember it falls out when you take the lens off. Maybe a little tapered wooden wedge, on a string, if you have to do it often. I don't know if there's any kind of glue with enough stickum to allow you to build up a new tab a drop at a time, but that might be worth a try if you don't want to have it repaired, or do real surgery on the aperture ring.

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Or find a replacement aperture ring?

Funny you should mention that....:D

 

I've got a 600mm f4 with dead AF motor and as they found out during the repair, a dead CPU too.

 

I'll check it's fully dead CPU wise and, i just checked, it DOES have its tab, swap the mount/aperture rings.

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ie, if i taped over the pins on the 500mm f4 it would work just fine?

Only if you also manage to disengage the automatic diaphragm lever that's being actuated by its counterpart in the FTZ adapter I would guess. Or if you only shoot wide open :cool:

 

it DOES have its tab, swap the mount/aperture rings.

Same diameter though? Most likely - so the aperture ring from almost any lens would do the trick? Width could be different though.

Edited by Dieter Schaefer
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I wonder if you can find some epoxy or the like that sticks well enough to the plastic of the aperture ring, and build up a new tab, a drop at a time. It might waste a fair amount of epoxy, since you can't just mix a drop at a time, but if it stuck well enough it might work. Or if there's room, you could, perhaps, drill a tiny hole and put in a pin to keep the glue in place (stake it like a cap on a tooth). It would have to be a tiny hole and a tiny pin, but you might be able just to heat up a pin and push it into the plastic.

 

On older AF cameras whose min-aperture switch moved sideways, the shape and location of the tab is critical, but on newer ones whose switch goes up and down, it's not. It can be larger and more sloped, as it does not need a precise leading edge.

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