Nikon old school DX images

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by blurrist, Jul 5, 2018.

  1. D200 and 70-200mm v1

    [​IMG]
     
  2. I took this to work with me today, and have used it a bit. I'll post photos this evening. BTW, it's amazing to me how much using this is like using an F5-even more so than the D1H/D1X. The top LCD doesn't even show shots remaining-instead it shows shots taken(the bottom LCD shows remaining). Things like ISO are behind the flip down door. As best as I can tell, there's no zoom on playback. Also, custom functions are set like on a F5 or F100 and not through a menu that actually tells you what you're setting(the D1H/X did at least add that ability).

    Also, even though I have several good batteries, I only have one with me. I have image review off so as to save battery power.

    The lens is probably a bit on the new side, but it's certainly not state-of-the-art DX. I really wish I had a 14mm f/2.8D for a couple of reasons, but it would be a nice match for this camera.

    IMG_5449.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2018
    blurrist likes this.
  3. I see that it's so like the F5 that, as with my F5, you lost the PC and 10-pin protector caps - I begged replacements off Nikon. Let me know if you also have your eyepiece fall out. (For such a robust camera, my F5 was prone to losing bits.) I'm impressed that that D1 seems to be nearly as beaten up as my F5, too.

    I'd kind of like a (cheap) D1 for historical reasons. They don't seem to be all that common, though, so maybe I'm not alone in that thought. The D1x is more available.
     
    blurrist likes this.
  4. Believe it or not, this one is probably the best of the 3 or 4 I have. They all work, though.

    The D1H is a different story-I only have one or two working ones out of a half dozen or so. I only have one 1DX, and it does work.

    This particular D1(along with another I have) was sold to me as an ex-NYT camera. I also got a D200 and three D300ss from the same lot. There's no way I'm aware of outside Nikon to check the shutter count on pre-D200/D2 cameras, but I'd be really curious to know. Two of the D300ss were at over 400,000. I kept the highest count one(I think it's 475,000) and although I haven't used it much it just keeps trucking along.
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2018
    blurrist likes this.
  5. I believe you - these things tended to get used enthusiastically. :) I'm mildly interested just because I remember the D1 launch, and it was fairly iconic as a camera. But I'm not so fussed about using it. Then again, I've spent the last few weeks throwing out useless things from my study, so picking up another one may not be so clever!
     
  6. Here's an SOOC JPEG from a D1 and 12-24 f/4 taken this afternoon. I didn't feel like digging through the custom functions to turn on RAW. BTW, this is actual size.

    DSC_6719.JPG

    And with a bit of "massaging" to taste.

    DSC_6719ed.jpg

    I'm pretty sure this camera has less dynamic range than Velvia.
     
    Andrew Garrard likes this.
  7. Ben I have to say, the first time I ran across a D1 I'd already been using a then current D2h (a truly bad camera) aD200 and my D1X. I decided that had the D1 been my introduction to digital photography I would have stayed with film forever. It was awful.

    Rick H.
     
  8. You're not kidding, Rick.

    I do have to say, though, that I like the images from the D1 better than I like D2H images(the colors straight out of the camera are better than I've ever been able to get from a D2H), although the D2H is a much nicer camera to use. At least the D2H was designed to be a digital camera rather than effectively being a digital F5 like the D1. Even the D1H and D1X are an improvement in handling over the D1.

    Of course, the D2X is a totally different story from the D2H. Aside from the fact that it looks terrible above ISO 400, it turns out both great RAWs and JPEGs. I used one as my main camera for a month or two last year and liked what I could get from it.

    None the less, the D1 has its place as the first truly practical and affordable DSLR on the market...
     
  9. I'm having a bit of frustrating fun learning my way around the D1(I wasn't even into photography when it came out, and when I did get into photography it was ~6 years old, still worth a pile of money, and I didn't use Nikons). In any case, I wanted to get RAW files out of mine and couldn't figure out how to do it. I had to venture to the manual(perish the thought) to do it.

    For anyone following/wanting to do it:

    First, set CSM 28 from it's default value of 0 to 1. This "enables" RAW recording. Anyone who has used an F5 or an F100 will find setting the custom functions second nature, but someone who has never used one of these cameras will find it a bit non-intuitive. Basically, you flip down the little metal door next to the small back LCD and then press and hold the button that says "CSM"(bottom left). Two number separated by a dash will show up on the small LCD-the left of these numbers is the function number, and the right is its current setting. You MUST consult the manual, as the functions are indecipherable without that or a cheat sheet. In any case, while holding down the "CSM" button, turn the rear dial to pick the desired function, then use the front dial to change the setting. To enable RAW recording, spin the rear wheel until "28" shows up, and then turn the front dial 1 click to change it from 0(default) to 1.

    Once you've enabled the ability to record RAW files, you need to go back to the quality setting to turn it on. Hold down the "QUAL" button-also under the flip-down door-and turn the rear command dial until "HI" appears on the small rear LCD. You will then have a string of seeming nonsense further to the right on the LCD which denotes the type of file-you want to turn the front command dial until "2.7r" appears. This will record as a .NEF file. BTW, the other options under "HI" are YCbCr and RGB, along with a B&W option for both of those-all of those settings record .TIFF files.

    Nikon REALLY had a long way to go in digital UI design in those days...

    Fortunately, the D1H and D1X recording RAW a bit easier, but make changing the quality a bit more complicated. You have to hit "menu" under the flip down door twice, then use the AF selector pad to go down to the "camera" icon menu, go right, go to quality, go right, go to "HI", go right, and then go to RAW.

    As a side note, does the D5 still use electroluminescent LCDs? I have to admit that after I've used an F5/F100/D1 series/D2 series I always hate going back to the cheesy edge LEDs of my D800 and other cameras.
     
    blurrist likes this.
  10. Yes it is. Its jpg size is perfect for social sharing purpose, almost no need to resize it.

    DSC_0021r.jpg
     
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  11. For me, initially looking for D1X but in vain. Luckily I saw a D1H on eBay in good condition, which is low mileage by seller memory, grabbed at once.
    Battery quite poor and has virtually indication issue. I have to take all 3 batteries out for a shooting session.
    But what can you expect more from old schoolmate. Hehehehe.
    Here he is!
    41111428995_e61bf1083a_o.jpg
     
    luis triguez likes this.
  12. I have CF card issue for first use since all my CF card from 4Gb, bigger than 1Gb to be allowed in D1* series (somebody says 2Gb accepted).

    Try to see how noisy he is with 70-300mm attached at F/5.6 S1/25 ISO1600
    DSC_0054.JPG
     
  13. Well, never buy the first version of anything. But I've got to say my interest in a D1 has very little to do with actually shooting it. On the other hand, my Eos 620 (approximately the first Eos - the less capable 650 has it beaten by a couple of months) was bought specifically for IR shooting because almost everything later had an IR sprocket counter - but I'm holding on to it partly because of historical interest. I can't really claim to be a collector, though. Of cameras, at least - I don't have a good reason to have a Cray supercomputer manual in the house, and I have some very elderly computer graphics kit.
     
  14. 2gb is fine. TECHNICALLY I think you could go as large as 3.1gb, but obviously no one makes a card that size(can't recall seeing a 3gb card).

    This is a problem with all 32 bit cameras-in Nikon land you'll run into it with the D1 series, D100, and the Fuji S1 Pro(plus the 600 series, 700 series, and earlier Kodak models).

    If you don't have a small card, you can format whatever size you have in the camera and it will work. Just be aware that it can take a LONG time. When I bought my D100 and wanted to test it, all the camera store had handy was a 16gb card, and I'd guess it took all of 5 minutes to format it.

    I've picked up a bunch of 512mb cards for a little of nothing. I use them both with early cameras, as well as when I'm doing something like listing on Ebay and just want to take a few photos at a time.
     
  15. You guys made me want to pull out my D1x. Yeah I have to charge the batteries first.
     
  16. One thing I meant to mention earlier:

    I mentioned having a box full of D1Hs. The failure mode I most often encounter is that the camera will see an otherwise full card as empty. Along with that, the camera will refuse to format and pressing the "menu" button with the camera on doesn't bring up the menu. I've tried all kinds of things to get around the "full card" problem, including using cards in all range of sizes from 8mb to 2gb(an 8mb card should at least hold a dozen D1H images) and formatting them in a working D1H. I SUSPECT that the issue may be a bad back-up battery, but I'm working up the courage to dig into one and try changing it. The D2 series moved the back-up to a hidden but otherwise user serviceable location that's listed in the manual-the D1 series requires a tear-down to replace it.

    Also, if one wants to use these seriously, newly manufactured batteries ARE available for around $40. If buying used, I'd suggest looking 3rd party batteries and NOT genuine Nikon ones-I rarely find a Nikon battery that will work for more than a couple of shots(although the one in my D1 now, which has a sticker indicating belonged to one of the top photographers at the local newspaper and also a hand-written label that says "New 2008" is going strong on 100 shots or so, is proving itself to be the exception) while many 3rd party ones seem to last a lot longer.

    Also, again, read the manual. There is a specific battery charging procedure outlined. After the light on the charger turns green, the battery should be unplugged, allowed to cool down and "rest" for a bit, and then plugged back in and charged until the charger light turns green again. Also, if one hasn't been used in a little while(which for me basically means every time I use one) it's a good idea to hit the "refresh" button on the charger-this discharges the battery completely and then charges it.
     
    SSepan, Andrew Garrard and blurrist like this.
  17. Wayback: D70 with AF-D 80-400 VR
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  18. How old is your F5? Mine is like new. I bought it in 2002 and I think it has may be 5000 actuations or so.
     
  19. Sunrise at Vero Beach Florida 2 weeks ago DSC_3714.JPG
    , with my old but still used Nikon D 50, 18-55 lens, 1/4000, f 6.3---
     
    iansurita, bnelson, blurrist and 2 others like this.

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