Nikon N80 flash metering

I was wondering about getting a Nikon F80 for macrophotography using

flash. My query concerns flash metering, the F80 does 3d matrix and

matrix fill flash. How well does this work in the macro region? Also,

does the Nikon N/F80 (or any other camera!) allow TTL spot flash

metering, if so is it any good for macro work?

 

Any comments concerning accuracy/ usage of macro flash metering with

a Nikon N80 would be appreciated. I would hope to use a Tamron 90mm

f2.8 with a ring/twin flash and/or an off camera ttl flash.

Many thanks

Henry

Due to the attention to detail in the Nikon engineering department, you would lose 3d matrix flash with anything but a lens that has the 'D' chip within. If your Tamron 90mm has the 'D' chip, you should be OK but be prepared to 'bracket' a couple of rolls to figure out what type of exposures you want.

I don't think any of the Nikons will do 3d matrix fill flash in spot metering mode, just straight TTL. Though I never recommend third party lenses, the lack of "D" capability if that lens doesn't support it, shouldn't make a difference if this is all you want to do.

The only thing I would add to the previous post is that you must use a lens with a CPU or you will not be able to meter with the camera. This means that you can't reverse the lens for macro, use a bellows or nikon's extension tubes and use the cameras meter.<div></div>

Although the N80 requires a CPU lens for ambient light metering, the TTL flash works fine with non-CPU lenses. Just remember to set the aperture on the lens. There is no particularly compelling reason to do this, unless you have a favorite (or find a bargain) manual focus macro lens, and will be doing night time macro photography.<P>The N80 has a five selector spot AF/spot metering system. In other words, the selector functions for AF as well as the spot meter, when it is selected. I personally would never use Matrix metering for macro, but if you want to, I won't turn you in. I generally use the spot meter for macro with flash. It's especially beneficial with very small subjects. My SB24 manual has a section on close up photography, with guidelines for the maximum aperture for different film speeds, for use at distances less than one half meter. It's no big deal, as f8 is wide enough for ISO 100 film. Any wider and you may as well turn off the flash. I have used a Sunpak 355, with a translucent diffuser made from a Crystal Light container, or with an old Vivitar bounce reflector; Vivitar 6000AF TTL ringlight; SB24 with a homemade bracket to position the flash head a couple of inches from the subject (softest possible shadows); and, maybe best of all, a SB22s on a SC17 off-camera cable, handheld and positioned all kinds of ways for different effects. My favorite use of the Vivitar ringflash is as a daylight fill (at close-up distances). It gives the appearance of a reflector, not like flash at all.