NIkon FM2/FM2N SHUTTER RELEASE WITHOUT BATTERY

I know the shutter of a Nikon FM2 or 2N will fire without a battery. My question is: if you want to use without battery and meter, does the film advance knob have to be in the "meter on" half cocked position in order to release the shutter?

Thanks You, Richard

At the risk of an unhelpful answer (I can say "no idea, but it seems like an odd and unnecessary interlock to have introduced given that if you just wanted to lock out the shutter release you could refrain from winding the camera and cocking the shutter" if it helps) I'm intrigued to know why you want to know. Do you have one and the shutter isn't releasing, or are you thinking to get one for a purpose where you can't leave the lever half-cocked for some reason?

I'm sure someone else here will be able to give a definitive answer, I'm just curious at the question. :-) Good luck.

Well, I stand by it being unnecessary and odd, but I'm interested to know that Nikon did it anyway! Glad we answered Richard's question.

I actually rather like it.

Cameras like the NIkkormats and, IIRC the FM, don't have any sort of separate shutter lock. I find the one on the F2(a lift and turn collar) a bit inconvenient to use.

I try not to store any of my mechanical cameras with the shutter cocked, but if I do tying the advance lever to the shutter lock is a quick and easy way to ready the camera for action while also preventing it from unintentionally firing your bag. I seem to recall that the FE2 has the same lock, and I know that the FM10 does. The EL and EL2 actually have a separate shutter release lock, but I never touch it as if you inadvertently leave it unlocked the batteries will drain(they also unlock with the lever).

I tend to associate this feature most with Nikon, but my Canon EF and Konica Autoreflex TC also work the same way, although both require you to press a button to push the lever back in. Of course, other manual advance Canons tend to have a free-floating offset and a collar around the shutter button(or otherwise a separate switch to turn them on and off). The only exception I can think of to that is the New F-1, which has a decisive "pop" into the offset position, but putting the lever there doesn't actually do anything :)

I actually rather like it.

 

Cameras like the NIkkormats and, IIRC the FM, don't have any sort of separate shutter lock. I find the one on the F2(a lift and turn collar) a bit inconvenient to use.

 

I try not to store any of my mechanical cameras with the shutter cocked, but if I do tying the advance lever to the shutter lock is a quick and easy way to ready the camera for action while also preventing it from unintentionally firing your bag. I seem to recall that the FE2 has the same lock, and I know that the FM10 does. The EL and EL2 actually have a separate shutter release lock, but I never touch it as if you inadvertently leave it unlocked the batteries will drain(they also unlock with the lever).

 

I tend to associate this feature most with Nikon, but my Canon EF and Konica Autoreflex TC also work the same way, although both require you to press a button to push the lever back in. Of course, other manual advance Canons tend to have a free-floating offset and a collar around the shutter button(or otherwise a separate switch to turn them on and off). The only exception I can think of to that is the New F-1, which has a decisive "pop" into the offset position, but putting the lever there doesn't actually do anything :)

I like it too! I think Andrew has problem with his nose. I like it because I never forget to turn the meter off and I can have the meter stay on as long as I want. The F3 or any newer camera times out and I have the press the shutter release half way again. It's the pain for me. With the F5 and Df I set the time out to the max 30 seconds.

But surely if the shutter isn't cocked (you've not cranked the wind lever) then pressing the shutter doesn't do anything anyway? That's why I was surprised that there was any point locking it - it's "locked" if you just don't wind it. I guess once you've wound it you'd have to waste a frame to "lock" it again, but it struck me as odd. Of course, I think I own (wow, the fact that I'm not sure means I should have a clean-out) only one camera with a purely manual wind, and I no longer use it, so I've no recollection what it does. (It's an original Bessa R, which has a sporting chance of being identical to at least one of the FM variants.)

I like it too! I think Andrew has problem with his nose.

Slightly personal, BeBu. :) Personally I think my slightly wonky nose (I don't think I've ever broken it) is genetically engineered to give me access to some Nikon buttons, although I'm still working on gaining a sufficiently prehensile snoot that I can get at a D850's Fn2 mid-shot. It's only a matter of time before I get nose hair stuck in the flip screen mechanism (I'm now horrified at the thought of the manual wind lever catching in hair while my F5 speed rewinds). I don't think I've ever tried to use my nose to move a film advance lever, but it could have happened accidentally.

But surely if the shutter isn't cocked (you've not cranked the wind lever) then pressing the shutter doesn't do anything anyway?

Even though-as I said-I try to make it a habit to not store my cameras with the shutter cocked, it still happens sometimes. Occasionally, I'll cock it in anticipation of a shot that never actually happens. More often, I just advance immediately after taking the shot without thinking about it, and then find myself with a cocked camera.

I'd hesitate to say how many miles of film my right thumb has advanced, but it's certainly quite a bit. I actually rather like manual advance for certain applications, and even though I have motors for most of my Nikons that will take them(or at least one motor driven body in the case of the F, where I understand you can't just stick motor drives on like you can with the F2 and later) I almost never use them.

So, like I said, I appreciate having some sort of shutter button lock, and having it tied to the advance lever is as easy as any other lock I've ever used. From what I can see, the Bessa R advance lever, frame counter, and shutter speed dial looks to be pretty darn similar to the FM10. It wouldn't surprise me if those parts at least work the same as both are made by Cosina.

Even though-as I said-I try to make it a habit to not store my cameras with the shutter cocked, it still happens sometimes.

I always had the MD-12 attached to my FM/FM2/FM2N and hence the shutter was always cocked - never an issue in all the years I owned those cameras. Incidentally, attaching the MD-12 is the only way I know of that allows to fire the camera with the film advance lever in the uncocked position (the MD-12 needs to be powered on though; one can advance the film manually with an MD-12 attached - just has to make sure that it is turned off (AFAIK, this does not work on an FM3A). Also, the batteries in the MD-12 only power the drive, not the meter; so leave those silveroxide cells in the camera.

I always had the MD-12 attached to my FM/FM2/FM2N and hence the shutter was always cocked - never an issue in all the years I owned those cameras. Incidentally, attaching the MD-12 is the only way I know of that allows to fire the camera with the film advance lever in the uncocked position (the MD-12 needs to be powered on though; one can advance the film manually with an MD-12 attached - just has to make sure that it is turned off (AFAIK, this does not work on an FM3A). Also, the batteries in the MD-12 only power the drive, not the meter; so leave those silveroxide cells in the camera.

I don't think that the FM/FM2/FE/FE2 necessarily have an issue with leaving the shutter cocked, but it is a known issue with the F2 and having a consistent approach at least for me lets me keep good habits with the cameras where it is necessary. Lately, I've been shooting a favorite F2-an F2SB(DP-3) more than I have anything else(even my D800), which I guess is probably why it's on my mind.

I do with that Nikon had made it possible to use the MD-14 on the FM2n and FM3a, as it can power the camera meter/other operations. Further, I'd say that could be especially helpful on the FE2, where the higher spring pressures in the shutter seem to make it have more of a battery appetite than the FM series cameras or even the FE.

Still, though, with an MD-12, as long as you flip the power switch on the back when you put it away(or rotate the collar to the L position) things still function as intended-the lever being in keeps the body release from firing, while the release on the MD-12 can be disabled a couple of different ways.

I've also always found it somewhat interesting that the MD-12 will not advance the film if the advance lever is clicked out. I suppose one could use that to their advantage if they wanted to move the camera before letting the somewhat noisy MD-12 advance the film, or otherwise if one DID want to make absolutely sure the body was stored uncocked(click the lever out, fire the shutter, turn off the MD-12, click the lever back in).

possible to use the MD-14 on the FM2n and FM3a

The MD-14 is for the Nikon FG/FG-20/EM and wouldn't fit the FM/FE/FM2/FM2N/FE2/FM3A; the one you are thinking of is the MD-15 developed exclusively for the FA. While the MD-12 can be used on the FA (while not providing power to the camera), the MD-15 does not work on any of the FM/FE/FM2/FM2N/FE2/FM3A; the only motor drives that work on these bodies are the MD-11 and MD-12 (and the former does not AFAIK on the FM3A).

The MD-14 is for the Nikon FG/FG-20/EM and wouldn't fit the FM/FE/FM2/FM2N/FE2/FM3A; the one you are thinking of is the MD-15 developed exclusively for the FA. While the MD-12 can be used on the FA (while not providing power to the camera), the MD-15 does not work on any of the FM/FE/FM2/FM2N/FE2/FM3A; the only motor drives that work on these bodies are the MD-11 and MD-12 (and the former does not AFAIK on the FM3A).

Sorry for mixing those up-I have an MD-14, but I've never used it...it came on my FG, a bit of a favorite of mine for a lightweight but still fully featured body.

I'd have to check, but I'm not entirely sure I've ever owned an MD-11-I have a handful of MD-12s I know, but there again don't use them. I DO have one MD-15 for my FA.

but I'm not entirely sure I've ever owned an MD-11

There's no good reason to own one (except to be historically accurate for early FM/FE bodies).

Ben, I no longer have my FM but am wondering if the earlier model (the one with the rotating collar around the shutter release) also have to have their film advance lever pulled out in order to release the shutter button lock? Do you happen to have one of those to check? IIRC, the rotating collar around the shutter release (used to switch to using the MD-11) locked the camera shutter release when the collar was set to the motor-drive position - but memory could fail me here.

Dieter, I only have one FM and AFAIK it does not have the collar lock. I'll check it when I can, but it will be a few days.

I need to pick up another FM-the one I have now is chrome, and I need a black one to go with it :) . I'll look for one with the lock.

Dieter, I only have one FM and AFAIK it does not have the collar lock. I'll check it when I can, but it will be a few days.

 

I need to pick up another FM-the one I have now is chrome, and I need a black one to go with it :) . I'll look for one with the lock.

I will check when I am home tonite. I have both version but unfortunately they are both chrome. But I think if you get a black you should get one of the same version you have on the chrome. Otherwise you will have to buy 3 and not 1.

Otherwise you will have to buy 3 and not 1

My thoughts exactly!

I think this would be the same as the F2 which I like better although I would release the shutter with the film advance level out. (I don't have tall nose)

I've used F2s more the past few months than even my digitals. All that clicking the lever out does is turn the meter(if present) on or off-or at least you hope that it does. It has no interaction with the shutter button-you have to turn the collar if you want to lock it.

And yes, you're right...I was shopping for FMs on Ebay today and black ones with the collar are out there, but certainly not plentiful. For the sake of completeness, I do need the full set. IIRC, I also need an FM2n in black wiht a honeycomb...or maybe I have an aluminum and need a honeycomb. I also don't have a single FM2(non-n)...although I think all of those are honeycomb unless they were serviced.

Someone wanted to know why I asked this question. I'm thinking of finding one and wanted to know because I have a NIkon Fe, with the same cocking lever on/off switch. I don't like this simply because my right eye is very weak, so using my left eye to peer through the viewfinder, the lever sticks in my face. It does seem redundant, if the shutter button needs to be half depressed to activate the meter (which I think is the case with the fm, though not the fe) Thank you all for your interet and responses

Richard

For the sake of completeness, I do need the full set.

Which means that you need to have six FM2 bodies: black and chrome original FM2 (1/200s sync speed, 1st generation Ti-honeycomb shutter). Black and chrome FM2N with 2nd generation Ti-honeycomb shutter (from the FE2); black and chrome FM2N with Al shutter. The original FM2 was only produced for a year - so finding one might not be so easy. Lastly, there is one FM2/T - it only came with the Al shutter.

I checked my FM with the shutter button collar and no you can release the shutter with the film advance level plushed with camera.

Thanks BeBu! I had the vague notion that the FM behaved like you described but wasn't sure since it's been well over a decade that I used mine last.

if the shutter button needs to be half depressed to activate the meter (which I think is the case with the fm, though not the fe) Thank you all for your interet and responses

The FM meter is on any time the lever is pulled out-the FM2(along with the FE2) added the half press to activate the meter.

As has been established, the FM with shutter button lock(knurling on the shutter release cup, as opposed to plain on the later) does NOT require clicking out the lever to activate the shutter.

You might also consider an EL2, which operates a lot like the FE albeit in a larger/heavier Nikkormat-style body. On the plus side, though, it has real full-time mirror lock-up and uses a silicon metering diode(that didn't return until the FM2/FE2). The EL, ELW, and EL2(the former two are branded Nikkormat, are non-AI, and have the annoying Nikkormat feature of requiring the lens to be set to f/5.6 before mounting) CAN be turned on by clicking out the advance lever, but this can also be done by a collar around the shutter release. Just don't forget and leave the collar unlocked, as it can drain the PX-28/4LR44/544 battery in a few days. This particular battery is not difficult to find-it was used in the Canon A-series cameras, New F-1, some Minolta meters, and outside photography in things like garage door openers and apparently some medical devices(Duracell cross-lists it as a "medical battery"), but often runs $5-10 rather than the pennies that you can pay for the LR44/76 battery used in most other manual advance Nikons from the F2 on if you shop around for it. Since you are left eye dominant, you can put the slow and noisy AW-1 winder on the ELW and EL2 if you don't want to ever have to mess with the advance lever.