Nikon FM-what is this problem?

<p>Here is an example.</p><div></div>

<p>Looks like a light leak to me. Check the seals around the camera back.<br>

If that's not the problem, it could be the shutter.</p>

<p>Does the light band (dark on the negative) extend into the area around the sprocket holes and between frames, or is it only within the negative area itself? If the former, then it's a light leak; if the latter, a shutter problem.</p>

<p>This is the third case of this that I've seen in the last few weeks involving a Nikon FM series camera... I certainly hope it's a back leak.</p>

<p>Only in the negative area. The sprocket holes and areas between the images are transparent. Looks like a trip to Essex Camera.</p>

<p>One way to determine whether it's a light leak along the film door edge is to advance the film only halfway and expose edges around the closed film door to bright light. If you still see apparent fogging across the unexposed margins between frames, it's probably a light leak. The reason you sometimes won't see even fogging along the film edge is because that part of the film is only very briefly exposed during the film advance step.</p>

<p>Check the light seal area (whether the foam/felt strip or baffles) for debris. Occasionally a bit of film can break off a sprocket hole and become lodged inside the camera. This may cause a slight bulge on the film door hinge or elsewhere. I tracked down an apparent light leak in one of my older SLRs this way several years ago. A good sized chunk of broken film was lodged in the door hinge area.</p>

<p>Please post a note after Essex has had a look at it... I'd be interested to know what is causing this.</p>

<p>The light streak is at the bottom of the image, which means it will be at the top part of the rear film door, as the image is reversed in the camera. This is also the part of the film door that sits above the top of an ever-ready case, should you be using one.<br>

At the risk of repeating myself, check out my instructions on how to fix this problem permanantly for less that $10: HOW TO REPLACE LIGHT SEALS WITHOUT USING FOAM STRIPS, MOVIE CAMERA STYLE (http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00SVtt)<br>

Almost every camera made since 1960 has this problem of foam light seal deterioration. If you don't want to do it my way with 8-ply wool, Bostic Clearbond and acetone, Jon Goodman sells replacement foam kits that do the same thing more easily with less mess, although his kits still use foam which will deteriorate eventually.<br>

Once you learn how to do it the wool/glue way you will have a skill that can stand you in good stead. Some old cameras don't seal well or at all with foam. Plus if you frequent this forum you may find yourself falling victim to GAS - 'Gear Aquisition Syndrome.' I have made several attempts over 30 years, but I can't stop buying cameras...<br>

Peter</p>

<p>Thanks, Peter. Actually the foam I sell has been proven not to deteriorate nor change for over 40 years (and this span of time is approaching 50 years as I type this note). I wouldn't sell it otherwise. Part of the problem with the original foam (besides being a cheap ester product) was formaldehyde-based adhesive, but I insist on 100% rubber-based adhesive (the same product NASA, Daimler, Boeing and others use). I don't think this is a light leak, however. I think Rick nailed the problem, especially if the negative shows dark only in the negative area...good luck!<br>

Jon </p>

<p>I just heard back from one of the other FM owners with a very similar looking problem: it turned out to be a shutter cleaning issue.... probably hesitation in the blades caused by dirt in the mesh of the gears.</p>

<p>If I remember correctly the FM has a vertical metal shutter so my guess is that the shutter is not closing properly over the last millimetre or so. Easy to check against a bright light source with the back open if this is the case.</p>

<p>James, I know this isn't helpful (but I do agree that its a shutter problem and not light seals), but the subject in your photo seems very familiar...let me guess - New Harbor, Maine? <br>

Now to try to be somewhat helpful - I've just fired off my FM-2 several times while looking at the shutter...and it seems that if there were some dirt/grit/old grease/or what have you - or perhaps if the top section of the bottom curtain were slighly bent, or if the small rivet located near the top right of the bottom shutter blade were loose - then it might not "cap" (close) properly near the top of the frame. Maybe you could try this - looking at the shutter from the back of the (filmless) camera - fire the shutter, then slowly wind it as you watch...paying particular attention to the top section of the bottom curtain as it rises - and see if it rises up well past the inside of the top of the cutout frame - or if it might be hanging up. Maybe after you've wound it you could take off the lens and (carefully) raise the mirror with a finger - hold the camera in front of a bright light - and see if you can detect any light creeping by the top of the frame. Again, pay close attention to the rivet near the top right of the bottom shutter blade - as this should normally come to rest just inside of the top frame edge - but if it were loose it just might instead come to rest on the frame itself - and possibly let in some light. Hope this helps! </p>

<p>Thanks for everyone's help. I changed the door seals and ran another roll of film through with the same result. Funny thing, I cannot detect any obvious problems with the shutter or curtains upon close inspection. I am going to drop it off at Essex Camera Repair this afternoon. I will post their diagnosis<br>

No, John, not Maine. Beautiful New Jersey.</p>