Nikon Flash Question

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by lekaicasi46, Aug 7, 2021.

  1. For those of you using Nikon flashes... Does anyone use the SB-500 or SB-700? Nikon has the SB-500 in their refurb store for under $200 and I'd like a first hand account. I'm using a D750 and my SB-400 has gone missing. Is it much better to get the SB-700 or other instead? As far as I can tell the main missing features of the SB-500 are less flash coverage at wide angle, no AF illuminator and no gel covers.
  2. I use an SB-800 with my D750; it works quite well for me. It is more powerful than either the SB-500 or SB-700. KEH is selling the SB800, in Ex condition with filters, stand, and case for under $150 (US).

    An added feature of the SB-800 is that it also works with my F100 film camera.
    FPapp likes this.
  3. Get a 3rd party flash from a well-known make like Nissin, Godox or YongNuo. For the price of an SB-700, or less, you can get something with the same power and facilities as an SB-910. Or I'll second the recommendation of an SB-800.

    Avoid the Meike SB-900 knockoff though. It's a piece of crap with nowhere near the stated guide-number.

    There's no such thing as having an 'over powered' flash. Which you quickly find out if trying to use bounced or off-camera flash with a softbox or other modifier.
    bgelfand and Jochen like this.
  4. Depends on what you need it for. The SB-500 is the only Nikon flash that features LED video light. It is also light and compact and inexpensive. You can buy new one for under $250. I bought one to accompany my Z mirrorless system, but I have not used it yet because I hardly ever use flash.
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2021
  5. I bought a used D700 a year or so ago simply because I wanted a flash that communicated with my digital bodies. It works well and does what I ask of it though itโ€™s rarely needed.

    Rick H.
  6. I have several SB-800's, the 1st one I bought new the rest used and none of them have ever failed, The menu might be a little tricky to navigate but well worth it imho.
  7. Which models of Nissin, Godox or Yongnuo has A modes? I think they only have TTL and Manual.
  8. +1
  9. In whose world is $250 inexpensive for a non-zooming flash with a claimed GN of only 24? Even if it does have 3 cheap COB LEDs built in - easily replaced by a <$5 bargain store COB light, or even the LED lamp in your smart phone.
    The Nissin Di866 Mkii has AA mode. But if that's all you want, then an SB-24, SB-25 or SB-28 all work excellently in A mode, and can be got for under $50. And all have the same light output as an SB-910.
    bgelfand likes this.
  10. I got Cameron W700HS for $35, it's actually SB-910 copy. When I tried it, I drive right back to store and got second one. Been happy ever after:)
  11. In your case I have no idea. Hwvr, it is not unusual for people to like a Nikon-brand flash that also has built-in LED for not more than $250 new - even less buying used - that is designed in one piece in a style, shape, and weight that one desires, as long as it has the function they need and produces the results they want. Naturally there are many other tools that can do the same thing, or the user may not need any.
  12. Mary, professional always looking for efficiency, if you overpaying, you got less profit. That's about it.
  13. Well if I buy the Godox or the Yongnuo I can only use it on a Nikon. With an SB-910 I can have TTL with Nikon cameras and AA with others. I go for the SB-800 as it does everything. The overheating is never my problem.
  14. Not so. I use a YongNuo YN560 mkiii equally well on my Nikons and a Sony. Manual mode is all you need if you know what you're doing or own a flashmeter. The YN560 mk3 & 4 have a built-in and totally reliable radio slave, which makes them ideal for off-camera use.

    Same goes for the Godox Ving 860n flashes I own. Yes, they have i-TTL dedication, but can be used in manual mode on any camera. They also take a small radio-slave module that allows off-camera 'power' control from an on-camera master trigger.

    But all this is off topic. The OP was asking about Nikon dedicated flashes, and IME those 3rd party makes offer a wider variety of options that are all far more affordable than Nikon's offerings.

    Plus, the money saved by buying an i-TTL compatible 3rd party flash would easily cover the cost of one or more used SB-2X speedlights to use on relics of film cameras, or to give you AA mode on almost any digital camera, if wanted.
  15. Too funny. "Professional"? "Overpay"?. How "objective". ;) So, anyone who pays more than your $35 Cameron W700HS flash must not be as professional and efficient.

    I hope we can see (not just read) more professional results from professionals - not referring to you particularly.
    Nick D. likes this.
  16. With either flash meter or test shots I got good results but it takes time. I use AA or TTL only when I don't have time to make a measurement or take a test shot.
  17. Well professional must efficient I agree with that but paying for saving time is efficient. It just too much work to come up with a DIY. Pro don't have time for DIY.
    bgelfand and Mary Doo like this.
  18. Depending on the situation, flash (power) bracketing will provide the answer pretty quickly.
  19. Agree. One wonders about the "professional" who constantly uses the cheapest-everything and have DIYs hanging out every pocket and and uses his cell-phone or worse for flash. I can see isolated incidents when the better tool(s) happens to be not available.
  20. The OP asked for an "AF illuminator" which I read as an AF assist light - the red light on the SB-800, and other flashes, that illuminates the subject when the camera AF system is activated to aid the AF system locking focus quickly. It does not cast shadows and is not apparent. A LED modeling light is something quite different; it does cast shadows and is quite apparent when activated.

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