Nikon FE and FM vs FE2 and FM2

My local camera repair-man has told me that the older Nikon FE and FM

shutters are twice as strong as the newer FE2's and FM2's, and that

he is constantly replacing shutters in the newer models but not the

older ones. Is there any truth to this? I'm really only contemplating

buying an FE or FE2, but I'm still curious to know about the FM/FM2

as well.<p>Part two of my question regards only the FE and FE2: I

know the older FE uses the FRE sensor and that this part is no longer

available, but does the FE2 also use this troublesome part? And how

much of a problem is the FRE sensor? I hear about people having

abused their FE's for close to two decades without problems, but

these cameras are getting older now.<p>In case you havn't noticed,

reliability is the theme here. I should also note that I don't need

speeds over 1/1000 and I prefer the analog readout of the FE. I also

like the slower 1/90 backup speed of the FE, not to mention the lower

price. Thanks!

The FE/FM shutter mechanism's are heavier and have a slower top shutter speed than the FE2/FM2 which accounts for much of the difference, but I'm not sure you want to buy my wife's FE beater that has taken well over 8,000 rolls of exposures. It is well beyond its design life expectancy, not that she would sell it. You also don't want to buy a body that has been sitting around collecting dust for the last 3 years because mechanisms need to be used to keep them trouble free.

 

The FE2's sensor is also no longer available.

 

Why not go with the FM3A if you want a manual Nikon body? Its parts will be around for at least another 7 years.

<p>I love my FE2, but there is really only two drivings reason to consider purchasing it over the FE: maximum shutter speed and flash photography (OTF-TTL and faster max sync speed). Everything else is just icing... brighter viewscreen, the exposure compensation reminder light, intelligent shutter-speed roll start, the correctly-designed exposure lock display, the finer (1/3 stop) exposure compensation settings, etc. For my applications, the FE2's fast maximum shutter speeds are a real boon. I still say that this is Nikon's best bang-for-the-buck MF camera... I don't think you'll be disappointed.</p>

both are very rugged. the fm/fe shutter might be a little more durable due to its slower speed, but most of this is offset by the lower mass in the fm2/fe2. i don't think either one is likely to be done in by any normal human number of exposures.

 

what WILL do either one in, though, is carelessness in film loading: a finger or thumb through the shutter will be the end of it (of the blade, anyway; they can be replaced individually). this is one, possibly the only, advantage of cloth curtain shutters.

 

rick :)=

 

http://rick_oleson.tripod.com

Read <a href="http://www.cameraquest.com/nikonslr.htm">this </a> for some info.

I put together <a href="http://www.lanset.com/rcochran/fmfm2n.html">

this list</a> of differences between my FM and my FM2n. I listed

every last little trivial detail that I could see on thorough

visual inspection without taking things apart. Though the

cameras are more alike than different, when you examine them

closely, hardly any parts are actually the same between

the two cameras.

<p>

One theme you'll notice is that quite a few parts are plastic on

the FM2n where the corresponding part is metal on the FM. I'm not

sure how closely the FE/FE2 followed this trend, but I suspect

they did.

Hey hey, good info from everyone. I was bracing for impact awaiting the typical "that's a stupid question" replies that get dished out so often. Thanks. <p>Oh, and I forgot about that new FM3a. I'll have to go have a look at one. I wouldn't mind having a warranty for once!

Hi Marcus,<P>

 

I recommend the FM3A, as combining the best of the FM2 and the FE2 (and, btw, Richard, your surmise about the FE and FE2 is correct - I owned both until recently and there were/are several plastic parts on the FE2 that were metal on the FE). You might want to consult <a href=http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=003oYl>this thread</a> in the Nikon forum - which, for a brand new forum, has been a busy and informative place; though it would be a better place, Marcus, if you were there.

Thanks Doug.

One additional point to consider is I dont believe the "dash two's" will accept any older lenses that are pre-AI. There is a vast used market of good older lenses that you'd be shut out of if you go the newer route. Of course, you have to use stop-down metering with them, which is a little of a pain.

It's pretty straightforward to do. It doesn't look so pretty, but they all work when done correctly. I don't get the second f-stop scale visible in the finder. But the lenses meter-couple, and work in full aperture mode:

 

By doing this, I picked up a Pre-AI version of the 105mm f2.5 and the 55mm f3.5 Micro Nikkor each for less than 1/2 of what the comparable condition AI lenses sell for, and converted them myself.

 

For the less parsimonious among you, a gentleman by the name of John White will convert your Pre-AI lenses for $35 apiece, and he WILL add a 2nd aperture scale so that the f-stop is visible in the finder. Here's his website:

 

http://www.aiconversions.com/

My two camera repair tech buddies say that the FE-2 is better built than the FM3A.

My two camera repair tech buddies say that the FE-2 is better built than the FM3A.

A thread from 2002 - the OP seen last in 2015, the poster prior to yours in 2007.

A thread from 2002 - the OP seen last in 2015, the poster prior to yours in 2007.

 

What are you saying?

What are you saying?

The OP and interested parties are long gone, so no value to them. In these kinds of cases I suggest that you start a new thread - on the Nikon FE and FM vs FE2 and FM2 - any or all, I'm sure others would be more interested in your fresh post than an ancient one. There is certainly no rule against searching out and responding to old posts, feel free to do so

I will continue to post the age of the post and status of the Op / last responder as I customarily do in these cases, so members can have the information necessary to decide where to contribute and spend their time.

What are you saying?

 

Since this is at least the second post you've made in the past two days about the differences between these camera models, you seem to want to talk about it, but doing it in a thread with information as old as the cameras themselves(at least in the case of the FM3a) likely isn't going to get a lot of interest.