Nikon F5 Command Dials Issue

I have a small, somewhat insignificant issue with my otherwise great F5 and I was wondering if this is common to the F5 or not.

The issue is, sometimes when I rotate the command dials, for any adjustment they can be used for, both dials seem to quit working for a

few clicks, then continue working. This happens when rotating in both directions. The dials feel fine, the clicks don't get quiet or feel

different when this occurs. As an example, when I rotate through shutter speeds, it will change one step for each click, then get to one

step, then I have to rotate the dial 2,3, sometimes 4 clicks to get to the next step. If I go backwards from there, it will usually go right

through the steps and do the same thing at a totally different shutter speed. This happens with aperture, and when holding a button to

make adjustments such as ISO. It happens when I rotate the dials fast or slowly. The issue does not seem to be isolated to a particular

portion of the dials, so it may not be a dead zone on the dials. It also does not seem to be limited to certain settings such as always

freezing at 1/500 shutter speed or anything like that. Anyone familiar with this issue and has anyone had the camera repaired for this?

<p>I do not have an F5, but this sound like dirty or oxidized switch contacts (usually called wipers in a rotary switch).</p>

<p>You can try to operate the dials quickly and hope the friction will clean the switch contacts. If that does not work a professional cleaning is in order. Yes, I know there are switch cleaning products, but I am not a big fan of spraying them in cameras.</p>

<p>I have an F5 and this is a the first time I heard of the problem. Do this. Make a mark on the dial where it stopped working and see if it stops everytime at the same mark. <br>

The dial probably uses an optical disc to generate pulses for the steps. At some position of the dial it simply not working. The clicks are added mechanically so it won't affect the operation. The camera counting the pulse so it doesn't matter where the shutter speed or aperture is at when the problem happens. </p>

<p>Although I recently sold my F5, I can honestly say that I never encountered the issue you described. I did have my camera CLA'd by Nikon when I got it though.</p>

<p>My F5 is very beaten up (missing paint), but - while it's not had anything like the amount of use of my digital Nikons - I've not noticed this issue. I got mine from a dealer who might have CLA'd it, though. Hopefully it's just a cleaning issue (while I agree that the switch contacts are likely, it <i>could</i> be a dry joint on the counter, which would require attention from a soldering iron). Good luck.</p>

I removed the screws and pried up the part that houses the upper LCD and command dials, but did not completely

remove this part due to the thin ribbon cables that link it to the body. I was able to see the underside of the rear command

dial and it looked like new, no corrosion or dirt. I put it back together and tried what Brooks suggested by spinning the

rear command dial rapidly numerous times, but it made no difference. As inexpensive as F5s are these days, I wonder if

it would be worth the repair cost. The camera is still completely functional, but it is an annoyance. I do have an F6, which

I absolutely love, but if I were to sell the F5 as is, I think it would bring down the value with this problem. I would not think

of selling it without mentioning this issue.

I have the exact same problem you describe. It affects only the main command dial (on the back). I've tried giving it a bit more use and burried the camera in rice to absorb any humidity it might have inside. That helped a little, I did notice that, but it's still far from perfect.

I have the exact same problem you describe. It affects only the main command dial (on the back). I've tried giving it a bit more use and burried the camera in rice to absorb any humidity it might have inside. That helped a little, I did notice that, but it's still far from perfect.

 

I just want to add that I am having the same problem with my Nikon F5 a couple of years back. The front wheel is fine, it's the thumb wheel that's giving me the problem.

The command dials on many of these (now getting older) F5's get dirty or "plastic mould" forms on the wipers and circuit board strips making contact intermittent or unpredictable. The only way I have found to revive a finicky command dial is to use a shot of electronics cleaner through the slot of the offending dial and move the dial back and forth many times. Short of complete disassembly of the dial turret to msnally clean the boards and wipers, I don't know of any other tricks for getting reliable operation back.

Here's an easy fix for those experiencing the problem of erratic readings when switching the aperture and shutter speed command dials on a Nikon F5. I own four F5's that had sat unused for around 10 years and all four of them were experiencing the problem with either one or both of their command dials giving erratic readings. I tried rectifying the problem by simply spinning the dials in both directions but that didn't work on any of my four bodies.

 

What did work, and doesn't require any disassembly of the camera, was the application of a small amount (a few drops) of naphtha (lighter fluid) on each side of the command dial and then working the dial back and forth rapidly to loosen up whatever film has built-up on the internal contacts. I also used a couple puffs of compressed air to force the naphtha farther inside so that it would get to all the areas needed. After you get the control rings working (it only takes a few minutes of working each dial back and forth), the canned air can also be used to blow out and evaporate any remaining naphtha.

 

All four of my bodies are now working fine with no issues.

 

I know this is an old thread but there are still lots of seldom-used Nikons sitting on shelves with this problem so I hope this helps someone in the future who needs a simple solution to getting their camera up and running again.

 

Cheers,

 

Rob McElroy

Buffalo, NY

idag@pce.net

I wouldn't use naphtha, because the dial uses rubber O-rings to seal against the weather. Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is a good solvent and reasonably safe for polymers. I'm not an advocate for DIY camera repair, and I'm pretty handy around tools. Any 20 year-old (or more) camera worth keeping could use a professional CLA.

I've never looked at the actual contents of commercial electrical switch cleaner!

I wouldn't use naphtha, because the dial uses rubber O-rings to seal against the weather. Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is a good solvent and reasonably safe for polymers. I'm not an advocate for DIY camera repair, and I'm pretty handy around tools. Any 20 year-old (or more) camera worth keeping could use a professional CLA.

A professional CLA would cost more than most film cameras.

A professional CLA would cost more than most film cameras.

Okay, but if you don't want to use it, wipe it down and put it on display, sell it, or give it to Good Will.

Okay, but if you don't want to use it, wipe it down and put it on display, sell it, or give it to Good Will.

 

Ms. Lomo is a greedy uh, uhm... never mind.

 

Hmm... I'll take it. That'll

make an even 18...

http://bayouline.com/o2.gif

Okay, but if you don't want to use it, wipe it down and put it on display, sell it, or give it to Good Will.

 

For me if an old camera is working I don't want to have it CLA by a professional. If it's not working I would try to fix it myself. So I agree with those who suggest to try to clean it.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1VIXU7GYLEF2X&dchild=1&keywords=contact+cleaner+electronics&qid=1611961295&sprefix=contact+cleaner,aps,155&sr=8-

 

 

VERY IMPORTANT ADVICE: When spraying items [small bursts] ... make sure that you TWIST or MOVE the KNOBS / Switches in maximum up/down ... left/right positions ... and 100% rotate knobs back and forth several times. This will clean the contact surfaces like a Pro Technician.

Oil which migrates to the shutter will require a $450 repair instead of a $150 CLA. Any liquid behind a sensor filter will require an $800 (or more) replacement.

Oil which migrates to the shutter will require a $450 repair instead of a $150 CLA. Any liquid behind a sensor filter will require an $800 (or more) replacement.

I doubt any repair person can fix the erratic dial for $150.

Ed, I don't think an F5 had a sensor...:p

 

Seriously, the cost of a human doing repair work has increased at a far higher rate than the cost of machine-made new gear.

I wish I can see a video of a tech doing a CLA.

Ed, I don't think an F5 had a sensor...:p

Speaking in general, digital cameras need repairs too, including damages caused by amateur attempts ;)

 

I would like to spare readers the pain of the latter, after following advice on the all-knowing internet. Secondly, don't ask to borrow my camera ;)

Ed!

Do you think fixing a bent pin in the CF card slot of a D810 is more or less expensive than fixing the erratic command dial?

In both case the correct repair is to replace the part.