Paul Lewis1664881697 Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 <p>I shoot film and use a Nikon F4S.<br> I have two Pocketwizard-triggered flashes (Quantum and Profoto), but there are times that setting up these units and metering is too time-consuming for the situation, or the lighting scenario is changing too rapidly.<br> Is there any way to use traditional TTL on an SB-28 with an Nikon F4S without a cable? I sometimes mount a the flash on a stand with a cable, or handhold the flash with a cable, but it would be great if I could set the flash on a stand and use TTL wirelessly. Is there any possibility of doing this? <br> Or is there any other flash that I could use quickly with an F4S with TTL?<br> Thanks,<br />Paul</p> <p><img src="/shared/portrait-bits.tcl?user_id=3731994" alt="" /></p> <p>Paul Lewis<br /><br /><a href="http://www.paullewis.us">http://www.paullewis.us</a></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member69643 Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 <p>Maybe try the RF-603 wireless flash trigger often sold on eBay.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lornesunley Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 <p>You can mount a TTL flash (SB-28) on the camera point it off into space ... and have an SB-28 on an SU-4 trigger as the remote. The camera will quench the on camera flash when enough light gets to the film, the SU-4 trigger will shut down its flash when the on-camera flash shuts down. You can have lots of remote flash units on SU-4 triggers going off, they will all shut down when the on camera master flash shuts off.<br /> You can use SB-800, SB-700, SB-900 (910) flash units as the remote(s) as long as they are set to remote SU-4 mode.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dxin Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 <p>No way can RF-603 do that.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_halliwell Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 <p>I would have thought that an Auto setting on the remote flash would be OK. It will quench it'self when it's got enough back from the scene to satisfy whatever Aperture requirement you've set it on...say f8.</p> <p>So, if conditions on set get brighter, it will produce less light and visa versa.</p> <p>You could certainly trigger it with an RF-603....but only trigger, no adjustments.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_meyers Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 <p>Here's a link to the SU-4 manual for any details -</p> <p>http://www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/Speedlights/SU4.pdf</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_stephan2 Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 <p>You could buy an inexpensive Newer brand flash for less than $40.00 and set the flash to slave, it'll be triggered by whatever you have in the cameras hot shoe. My wife uses a SB-600 on her D3200 and a couple of Newer flashes on light stands shooting through umbrellas with good results.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 <p>Paul, just forget TTL. Set the flash to AA mode and fire away. IME, AA mode is just as consistent and reliable as TTL or i-TTL, although you may have to apply some -ve compensation if trying to use it for fill-flash.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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