lewis_brymner Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 <p><img src="http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/mbrkid/Photo2.jpg" alt="" width="272" height="367" /><img src="http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/mbrkid/Photo1.jpg" alt="" width="381" height="276" /><br> <img src="http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/mbrkid/Photo2_1.jpg" alt="" width="311" height="416" /><img src="http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/mbrkid/photo3_1.jpg" alt="" width="302" height="419" /><br> Ive only had my camera for about a month and having problems with the pictures im getting dark areas on the photographs ? its only some of the pictures a few come out fine.<br /><br />Please help :(</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User_1172872 Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 <p>Looks like shutter tapering: one of the curtains is catching up to the other. Generally gets worse with faster shutter speeds.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewis_brymner Posted February 14, 2010 Author Share Posted February 14, 2010 <p>Ah i was hoping it wasnt something like that..</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_levine Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 <p>This was recently discussed , and I suggested that it is a failure of the shutter braking mechanism.</p> <p>Try here: http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00VaQc</p> <p>Try firing the camera with a flash, and keep the back open without a lens attached. You want to watch the frame carefully for what the shutter is doing. The flash will silhouette the offending parts, as they get caught in the frame during exposure.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Currie Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 <p>If the problem is at higher speeds than 1/80, the flash won't give you a true picture. But it will show up without flash. If you fire it multiple times, you'll likely start to see the problem.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewis_brymner Posted February 14, 2010 Author Share Posted February 14, 2010 <p>well i fired a few times without the lens on and with the back popped open and had a good look, and to be honest it looks like its operating smooth and theres nothing obvious blocking or anything else happening</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_carroll4 Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 <p>I'm not sure how helpful looking through the back of the camera will be for examining the shutter's behavior at high speeds. I know the F3 defaults to 1/80 sec on auto until the counter reaches frame #1 (ie, it will only fire on 1/80 sec with the back open. Can you override this by setting the shutter speed manually?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewis_brymner Posted February 14, 2010 Author Share Posted February 14, 2010 <p>nope just stays at 1/80 sec.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_hooper1 Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 <p>It's time for a CLA. It happens to the best of them. I can highly recommend <a href="http://www.nikoncamerarepair.com/?gclid=CNm--_H88p8CFSYbagoduWLYhg">Nikon Authorized Service</a> in North America. The image flaws look very artistic, way cool, and intentionally done. I would keep them.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewis_brymner Posted February 14, 2010 Author Share Posted February 14, 2010 <p>Ah i live in the UK ?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_hooper1 Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 <p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://soverf2repair.webs.com/" target="_blank">Sover Wong</a>, (In the UK), only works on the Nikon F2 to my knowledge, but I'll bet he could recommend a good counterpart. I would contact him for suggestions. He has gladly helped me with recommendations in the past.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertbanks Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 <p>In UK you may be able to get Fixation to look at it, they are are Nikon authorised pro repairers so I think they should still handle F3.<br> Also there was a guy advertising Nikon repairs on ebay. I had an email discussion with him some time ago about my F3 being cleaned and he said he should be able to take a dent out of the top plate that was stopping the frame counter from working too for me as part of the clean. I never did get round to it though...</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jean_yves_mead Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 <p><a href="http://www.aztechservices.com/">Aztech Services</a> may be able to help you - they're Nikon subcontractors and I seem to recall reading that they bought up the remaining stocks of F3 spares in the UK (although I may be mistaken). I did, however, contact Fixation something like four months ago about an F3 with a shutter problem - their advice was to be prepared to junk it as shutter repairs would probably cost more than buying a replacement body.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_carroll4 Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 <p>I used the guy on ebay to CLA an F2 Photomic (seals were gone, meter was way out and the self timer release didn't work). Turnaround was very quick (IIRC, I had it back <10 days after I shipped it), and the camera came back looking and working great. He offers an F3 CLA for $90 + shipping.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
photo5 Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 <p>A very good friend of mine is also a very good technician. Glen at Alpine Camera can fix this. Not the cheapest tech out there but he has the parts and the experience (more than 20 years at his own business). He's in Spokane, Washington and ships UPS daily. www.alpinecamera.com</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_mcniven Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 <p>To see the faster shutter speeds on F3 with the back open you need to press and hold the frame counter engage/release lever which is normally operated by the back door top edge close to the hinge.<br> It's a tiny button 10mm. to the left of the hinge at the top edge - in the groove where the seal is.<br> Cut a small piece from a toothpick or cotton bud stick that will hold the button in and stay there.<br> Wind on & release the shutter 3 times and frame counter should now be on frame 1.<br> All shutter speeds are now available.<br> Without a lens fitted hold the camera at arm's length facing a white wall. At the faster shutter speeds you will see the film gate will be unevenly-illuminated like your negs.<br> It looks like the first curtain is dragging - if you're lucky it may be seal debris in the top or bottom guide.<br> Don't touch the shutter blades.<br> Repair is usually uneconomic.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewis_brymner Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 <p>Thanks alot david worked perfect i can see exactly where its happening.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffgp Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 <p>I'd contact Dave at Aztech as Jean-Yves suggested. He's serviced my F's, F3 and F5, he's excellent reliable and very honest.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now