Nikon F3 LED

The F3 manual states that the LED in the viewfinder will grow dim in about 7

years and need to be replaced. The LED on my F3 is somewhat dim but usable. I

discussed this with my trusty repair person, and he a had a replacement kit,

that contained not only a new LED but also various replacement circuit boards.

He estimated the cost to be on the order of $170. Is it true that various

circuit boards need to replace and not just the LED? I just received the F3

which is in LN+ condition, but I can't get that little red button to work to

iluuminate the LED in the viewfinder. That red button must be among the poorest

examples of humnan engineering that Nikon ever did. That and hot having the

exposure lock not toggle between on/off rather than have to be held in while the

shutter is released. Very awkward for me.

Not sure where you are in the world, but if you want to dial into Southern California, try Authorized Camera Service at 818-340-0582. Ask for Peter. He is very helpful and an expert. They also do good work.

 

Yeah, I hate that crappy little light too, but then I still miss the match needle for pure visual ease.

 

By the way, my LED is still going strong after 15 + years.

To clear up a point of confusion: The LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes) in an F3 are the one on the front of the body that indicates that the self-timer is in use, and the one in the viewfinder that indicates that a compatible flash's readylight is illuminated. AFAIK, the LEDs have nearly infinite lives, or at least they'll outlast the mechanical portions of the camera.

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The shutter speed and metering info in the viewfinder is displayed on an LCD (Liquid Crystal Display), and this is the device that has a theoretically limited lifetime. It can eventually lose contrast and become unreadable. I assume this is the device you're talking about replacing. I think most of them will live far longer than 7 years.

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The LCD is illuminated by a tiny incandescent light bulb that's controlled by that darn red button that almost never works right. Theoretically, the incandescent bulb might eventually burn out, but since the red button never works, it seems unlikely that bulb could ever see enough use to actually burn out in practice. Who would know, anyway?

Sorry, I meant the LCD in my viewfinder has been going strong for 15+ years.

As Richard says, the LCD is what has the risk of wearing out. Having said that, my original LCD panel is still going strong at 23 years. Perhaps yours has been exposed to high heat or some other damaging force?<p>As for the little red button, it will only illuminate the LCD panel if and only if:<p>1) Camera is on<p>2) Meter is on (you've pressed the shutter button halfway down) <p>3) You hold down the red button<p>4) Bulb hasn't burned out.<p>If any of the above conditions are not satisfied, then the light will go out. That means that you've got a maximum of 16 seconds to get the exposure right in the dark, before the meter and light will fade out. Oh yes, I'm on my original 23 year old bulb too. I think it's going to need replacement soon, as it's getting a bit dim when I use it. The better answer of course is to bring a little mini-flashlight with you if you're going to go shooting in the dark. The little flashlight will help you find all the other controls too. Some of the new LED flashlights use very little power, and put out quite a bright light.<p>As for what needs to be replaced, I understand that the LCD panel as well as the display circuit board that it's mounted on needs to be changed. But, I don't know if the quoted price of $170 is right or not.

I also think that Kerry is referring to the L"C"D display in the viewfinder.

 

"Seven years" was the original estimation of the lifetime of LCD unit when F3 was first released, which turned out to be longer after ten or so years.

 

However, it has its lifetime and will be deteriorated anyway. The repair cost I heard was about 20,000 yen in Japan, so $ 170 should be reasonable.

 

You should bear in mind that F3 was designed, made and priced as the "flagship camera" of Nikon at that time and its repair parts are also designed, made and priced as such. The cameras on the shelves in camera shops will be cheaper and cheaper as time passes after its discontinuation of production, but the repair parts and labor won't.

 

I used to use a couple of F3's and loved them, but so far as the red button in question is concerned, I don't remember if I could ever successfully push it when necessary:-)

Thank you all for your advice. Of course, I goofed when I said LEDs vice LCDs.

Hi, Kerry. My F3, acquired new in 1988, work perfectly without any LED problems.

Ciao

 

Vincenzo Maielli Italy

I believe I read somewhere that heat is the enemy of the F3 LCD display. It will shorten the life of the LCD. Best not to leave camera in hot places like cars in the summer (Of course it's not good to leave ANY camera in a hot car).

I have 2 F3s, both from new (1983 & 1986)- both in excellent but well brassed condition. In the early 90's I worked for 3 years in outback New South Wales where the temperatures in the shade range from -10 to over 42 degrees celcius every year. My camera gear lived in a bag in the boot of my car where, more than once, the heat turned audio casettes into black blobs but, both The LCD's are sharp and clear and both the viewfinder illuminators are dead.

 

My D70 is nice but has been a little hard to use with a cracked black blob on its LCD.

I just bought a used (very used) F3. To my surprice it seems to work just fine - although it looks like it has seen all major battle grounds since 1980. One thing that did not work though was the backgound light for the LCD display. Removing some tiny screws I managed to find the light bulb. The smallest I have ever seen - the size and shape of a grain of rice. It gluded to a small metal plate and soldered to a small flexible PCB by two very thin vires. One of the vires was broken. But - no luck. I measured the lamp and it was broken. I am not sure it would be all that easy to find a replacement lamp for such an old camera. I took a yellow LED made for surface mount. Soldered two new wires directly to it. Scraped of the old lamp with a pocket knife. And glued the LED on to the metal plate instead. And assembled the whole thing back to the camera again. Hallelulja - it works just fine and gives just the right amount of background light to the LCD. Without any series resistor. Sheer luck.

 

Try this only if you have good light, a magnifing glass and a very small soldering iron. The operation felt like the equvivalent of performing a hysterectomy on a mosquito (not that I have done that - but it give you and idea of it).

 

Good luck,

Fredrik Kempe