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Nikon F3 Advancing Problem & Olympus OM System Opinions


rich_s5

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<p>I also posted this in the Nikon forum but I figured I'd give it a shot here as well (every other post in the Nikon forum says D7000)</p>

<p>I've had a trusty Nikon F3 for about a year and a half now and it has been a dream to shoot with. However, yesterday I picked it up and seemingly out of nowhere it started acting up.</p>

<p>Every time I advance (cock) the shutter the camera fires as soon as the advance is complete. The meter also seems to be acting up but i did try 3 sets of fresh batteries and nothing helped. At times the shutter does not fire at all and the shutter button becomes unresponsive, at this point the only way i can fire the shutter is with the auxiliary shutter switch (on the front of the camera).</p>

<p>Any Idea's?</p>

<p>I've also been thinking about purchasing a more compact camera system and the Olympus OM series has caught my eye (mainly because of their bargain price). I've seen OM-1's, OM-2s's and OM-4's at very fair prices and i was wondering if any of my fellow Nikon users have any opinions on the OM system.</p>

 

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<p>Hey Rich. How about that D7000. Have you ever seen such good high ISO performance and dynamic range in an APS camera before. And, it's got good compatibility with older lenses, so you could use some of your F3 lenses on it...</p>

<p>OK, seriously, something to check. I've seen the "fire after cocking" thing before, more than once. It always turned out to be one of three things.</p>

<ul>

<li>The shutter button was shorted. Either the main shutter button or the shutter trigger connection to the motor drive on the bottom plate. </li>

<li>The mechanical motor drive shutter release on the bottom plate was jammed. I don't know if F3 has one of those, some other Nikons do. They can use motor drives that trigger the shutter electronically or older drives that trigger the shutter bu poking a pin into a little hole on the bottom plate. That little hole mechanism is vulnerable, a lump of crud gets in, sticks the mechanism, and schwango, a camera that fires randomly, or every time it's cocked.</li>

<li>The film sensor or switch is damaged. Some cameras (and I believe F3 is one of them) have a nifty little switch, so when you load film and advance it, if there is just leader, not full width film, going over the pressure plate, it immediately fired the shutter on advance. Saves you time when loading, roll goes in, you hook the leader, close the back, cock the shutter twice, with the camera firing the shutter between those, and you're ready to shoot. If that switch isn't working right, you get that same cock, fire, cock, fire behavior.</li>

</ul>

<p>Now, about that Olympus. Seriously, you'd have a lot more fun with the D7000. It's a sweet little DSLR...</p>

<p>OK, OK, back on topic. Yes, some of us have tried it. OM-4 was my favorite. I used to trade systems with an OM shooter every now and then. And 3 years ago, I'd have said "go for it". But this whole four thirds, micro four thirds, Sony NEX thing has driven the prices of the "best" OLY primes through the roof, so although the body prices are dropping like dead pigeons, you won't be able to get the best glass.</p>

<p>Get an FM2, it's pretty much same size and weight class as an OM (I can't feel much difference, and I've shot them side-by-side) and some of the "lightweight" Nikon classics like the short "pancake" version of the 50mm f1.8, the 28mm f2.8, the 105mm f2.5 Ai-S, and it really doesn't feel much different from a Nikon kit. And a Voigtlander 40mm f2.0. That lens has a rather "Oly" way of drawing an image and it shaves grams down to below Oly levels.</p>

<p>Good luck, and have fun. Enjoy that D7000...</p>

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<p>The Om's are wonderful cameras. My favorite is the OM2n. I own a black version that looks and works great. While the OM lens prices have risen on the used market due to digital adapters they still are reasonably affordable. I just purchased a very nice 50 1.4 for $150. Oh btw it had a OM1 attached to it. :) One low cost gem is the 28 3.5. Everyone wants the 2.8 version and the 3.5 is sharp as a tack.</p>
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<p>It's time to get the F3 serviced.</p>

<p>If you want to go with a really smaller camera, on the order of an Olympus, just get a Nikon EM series instead.</p>

<p>I've owned and used OM's through the OP PC. Nice cameras, contrasty lenses, but nothing really on the Nikon EM. If you have a basket of Nikon lenses, get an EM.<br>

If you don't, then don't feel an obligation to continue into the dslr world with Nikon. You have all of the choices available to you. Consider them all carefully before you make a commitment.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>The F3 doesn't fire off the shutter automatically when loading the film - rather, it defaults to 1/80 sec until frame 1 is reached - this means that you can load film with the camera set on auto and the lens cap on, without the camera trying to go through a long exposure every time you hit the shutter as you wind the new film onto the spool. This is purely a function of the frame counter - there is no sensor or switch distinguishing between film leader and full width film.<br>

If your F3 is playing up and you like F3's, you can probably pick up another for the price if the repair - they're common as dirt (although, in your situation, I would get mine repaired if possible - I'm very attached to <em><strong>my</strong></em> F3HP - I don't consider it to be disposable - if it were truly beyond repair, it would end up on the display shelf). If you want another Nikon, I agree with Joseph above (apart from the whole D7000 thing) - get an FM2 - compact and capable - simply a great camera<br>

OM's - beautifully built, slightly idiosyncratic gems. Beautiful viewfinders - arguably the biggest and brightest available. Great lenses, full system support. The OM-1 is a classic bare-bones manual/mechanical SLR - tiny, but it'll do everything a Nikon F2A will do, at 2/3 the weight and 1/5 the price - I bought my OM-1n used in 1986, and it hasn't missed a beat since then. I bought my OM-4T new in 1993, and it has been just as reliable. IMO, the OM-4T is the best manual focus 35mm SLR ever made - the combination of size, build quality, viewfinder, metering system, TTL flash (inc synch up to 1/2000 with the FP280) and full system support, including macro, motor drives, screens and great Zuiko lenses - a unique and brilliant camera.<br>

In case it's not obvious, the F3HP and OM-4T are my two favorite SLRs.</p>

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I don't actually know what to do about the F3 problem besides sending it in for repair, but as for smaller cameras have

you looked at the FM/FE/FA options? Not quite as small as an OM but very capable cameras. My FE2 is noticebly

smaller than my F3 and only slightly larger than my Minolta XD11, which is my standard for small SLRs. And adding a

second system has definite disadvantages.

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<p>I was never an F3 owner so I'm no help there. But I've owned and used OM's since their intro c 1970's. These cameras have one of the best viewfinders ever conceived by mortal men. The whole frame is right there. Nikon made their FM series cameras. In an attempt to miniaturize ala the OM's. But the FM/FE cameras VF's are horrible compared to the OM's. An OM that uses silver oxides, and a 50mm lens is all you need. Most still run fine in spite of their old age.</p>
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<p>I have both the Nikons and the OMs - my two pennorth is get the f3 repaired - if you want a precision engineered electronic manual focus it is the best I have handled (sorry Canon, but I prefer the Nikon to the T90) The Olympus is a different kettle of fish. I wouldn't get the Om1 because of battery issues, but an OM2 or OM2n (Not OM2PC or OM2SP) offers full auto, TTL flash and manual. But definitely not the same feel as the Nikon, which is why I suggest getting it serviced while it is still relatively easy to do so. Om4s and especially OM3s are still quite dear to buy.<br /> Putting this ramble into perspective, if I just want to shoot some 35mm film I will probably take out an f3 (or the Nikkormat ftn) If I want to have more of an outing with a camera for fun's sake the OM2 will often be the camera chosen from the collection to do it with.<br /> Ps: Another point is that a serviced f3 is up to the mark and will last a long time before it needs anything else doing to it, while ANY second hand camera could need servicing next week/month/year - like cars it is never easy to tell when you buy.</p>
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<p>I have both systems and with the exception of weight, IMHO, the F3HP outperforms the OM system on all levels. Lens quality for the Nikons is better. Nikons are built better. OM-1 needs a battery adaptor. Also, Zeiss makes incredibly great lenses, though costly, that fit the film & digital Nikon cameras. A Nikon F3HP partnered with a 35mm f2.0 Zeiss & a Nikon 105mm f2.5 AiS is an awesome duo. If you get the 50mm f1.4 AiS lens get it with the highest serial number as there were 6 models, and the 6th is the best. Again, these lenses will work with digital, though they will not auto-focus. But, the difference is subjective, too. With the Olympus I feel that if I drop the camera I could break it with the Nikon F3 it could break my toe.</p>
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<p>I'm with you on the relative ruggedness Steve - both my F3's were given to me after being used by professional photographers, and while neither is a work of art, both are perfect mechanically and optically. Apart from Lichfield, and Bailey, in the adverts at least, I don't think I have ever seen a pro use an Olympus.</p>

<p>Despite that they are jewels of cameras and a delight to use, but just not as solid as the pro Nikons. </p>

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<p>The F3 is my favorite camera. I have the F3 since 82. It seems that your F3 has a shorted shutter release button. Check the bottom contacts and see if you find a short there. Otherwise disassemble the camera is quite difficult.<br>

I have been a Nikon shooter for a long long time and think highly of the OM system until I actually owned some of the OM cameras. They are no where compared to the Nikon F3 system.</p>

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