Nikon F2 Photomic Battery?

Can't seem to find the "correct" battery to power the DP-1 finder on

my old F2. I'm told the original voltage is no longer available.I'm

bewildered by all the choices out there and I'm not getting any help

from the corner camera shop. What are you F2 shooters using? How does

the battery voltage affect the meter performance?

That's not right. The F2 needs 2 simple 1.5V (e.g. SR44) batteries or one 3V lithium, everywhere available. If your DP-1 doesn't work, well, this can have other reasons. Many of these finders give up life after 30 years and need a CLA. The weak parts are a ring resistor inside the finder and the CDS-cells. A Nikon service shop can fix it. If they need parts this can be a problem. One of my F2s I once have owned had a problem with the electrical connection between the batteries and the finder, but this a rare appearance as I was told.

Maybe this link is interesting about

 

http://www.geocities.com/sover_wong/Nikon_F2_Repair_Service.html

Just as a matter of form, the batteries for the F2 are in the camera body in the compartment at the bottom, and are, as noted above, either 2 1.5 V. cells or 1, 3 v unit. The 1.5 V units can be LR44 or equivalent, the most popular type.

 

The ones no longer available are mercury 1.35 V. cells. They can be bought in some places( they are still made in JApan and China)or replacements are available, but very expensive- Wein makes them.

There are sources on the Web: Google "1.35 V. Mercury batteries".

 

Cheers

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"One of my F2s I once have owned had a problem with the electrical connection between the batteries and the finder, but this a rare appearance as I was told."</i>

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In my experience, the power connection between the head and the body is just about as problematic as the connection between the battery and the chamber. When I'm chasing a meter problem in an F2, the first thing I do (after verifying a decent battery) is clean *all* the contacts in the battery compartment and head interface with an alcohol soaked Q-tip. Many a fussy body has been brought back to life this way.

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This is not quite the same as a 'real problem' like an internally corroded wire, but it's easy to check / remedy.

I have no problems with these 3V lithium batteries 2L76 from Energizer. I find the format to be more convenient than the two 1.5V cells.<div></div>

You can used two LR44 or AG13 with 1,5 volts.

My camera it's other problem. Look links for help.

 

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NikonRepair/

http://www.geocities.com/sover_wong/Nikon_F2_Repair_Service.html

http://www.geocities.com/sover_wong/F2_battery_problems.html

Just a wee tip: size 675 zinc air hearing aid batteries will usually work perfectly as a substitute for 625 mercury button cells.

 

If you don't care to try to repair your F or F2 metering prism yourself I think Stephen Gandy, www.cameraquest.com, either offers repairs or has a link to someone who does this work.

 

"Parts replacers" will tell you that some of these old metering prisms can't be fixed because "the resistor is shot" or some other reason. A real repair tech can find a way to fix it, assuming you're willing to pay the extra cost for labor and talent. Sometimes true repair techs, gunsmiths and other craftspeople have to fabricate replacement parts from scratch or by modifying other parts.

 

However I wouldn't expect even a serious repair tech to fix an all-electronic camera for which parts simply aren't available. I can only imagine how cost-inefficient it would be to fabricate an entire circuit board or module from scratch.