Nikon F100 - Battery Door Latch Probs

<p>Hello All<br>

I just picked up a used F100 and upon my first try at opening up the battery compartment door the thumb screw broke off in my hand.<br>

Background - I had Minolta and Pentax film cameras before and switched to Nikon with the introduction of digital, having a D50 and now a D90. I have never owned or even touched a Nikon film camera before.<br>

So a couple of questions to this excelent collective Photo.net brain:<br>

1 - how do I open the door, any suggestions ?<br>

2 - where is the best place to order a new door ?<br>

3 - if I purchase a used grip do I still need this battery compartment door ?<br>

Thanks in advance <br />Steve O<br>

Pics:</p>

<div></div>

<p>Another Pic</p><div></div>

<p>Mechanical Drawing</p><div></div>

<p>Oh, last question, there appears to be a contact in the recessed area where the thumbscrew normally would live, about the 2 o clock position, along with a hole in the washer, both visible in the pics above.<br>

Does the contact actually do something and is the hole in the washed supposd to line up with the contact, so that the contact is in physical contact with the "bottom" of the thumb screw ?<br>

Thanks once again<br />Steve O</p>

<p>Hi Steve:<br>

You can get a replacement off eBay, or try the following link.<br>

<a href="http://www.bocaphoto.com/products/new/nikon/nikonacc.htm">http://www.bocaphoto.com/products/new/nikon/nikonacc.htm</a><br>

HTH<br>

Raymond</p>

<p>Hi Raymond,</p>

<p>Thank you for the excellent link. Before ordering a new door, my biggest challenge is getting the old door off.</p>

<p>Can anyone confim for me how the door latches onto the body as I feel I have to drill out the bottom of the door and I do not want to hit anything I shouldn't</p>

<p>thanks<br />Steve O</p>

<p>I advise against drilling. It's difficult to recommend the best tool for the job without knowing the exact configuration of the piece just out of view, but the gist is to rotate the shaft, from which your little flip-tab has become detached, approximately <em>70 degrees counterclockwise</em>. Perhaps a very small Easy Out (EZ Out, etc.) will do the job? Nothing fancy but maybe a small screw gently threaded into the sleeve (?) of the shaft will do the trick. Thread in (clockwise), apply firm pressure while turning counterclockwise. How much resistance can such a small mechanism offer? Your target is the opposite end of the Philips head in the 1B991 drawing.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>If you can catch Nikon service in the right mood, and use just the right combination of sounding desperate, despondent, and slightly pissed, they just may send you one freeeee!</p>

<p><strong>RE: Boca Photo/Precision Photo<br /></strong><br /> I'd have to advise against ordering from them. I ordered a couple small parts last year and it took about 3 months to get them. Of course, my credit card was charged immediately and after that it was impossible to make any contact about the order. I did eventually get the items, though.</p>

<p>There were a lot of stories on Reseller Ratings about Boca by people that had the same experience I had. Too bad I didn't look there first.</p>

<p>Here's a photo of the battery compartment. The little hole is where the pin of the latch goes. It's only about 2mm deep. I'm not sure if drilling would do much since there's no place for anything to go.</p>

<p>The latch doesn't have much resistance so I'd think you could get the pin to turn as Lilly W suggested.</p>

<p>A new MS-12 battery holder is readily available from B&H for $20.00.</p><div></div>

<p>Lilly, Sanford Thank you for your comments<br>

Eric thank you for the pic, that is exactly what my x-ray eyes could not see, but now I know what I am trying to acoomplish.<br>

Results will be posted shortlty<br>

Steve O<br>

<br /> </p>

<p>Thank you to all that responded, here is the final result...<br>

<br>

The only way to remove the door was to take a rotary tool to the camera, and after some cutting and gentle application of pliers, drills, screwdrivers, many dental pics and a wire wheel on the dremel, the compartment is ready for a new door.<br>

<br>

What seems to have happened is that the previous owner let his batteries seep and ooze in the camera. Pics of these bad boys as well.<br>

<br>

Here are some before and after pics of the finished repair, minus the new door<br>

<strong> </strong><br>

<strong>BEFORE 1</strong><br>

<strong><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/14263872-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="453" /></strong><br>

<br>

<strong>AFTER 1</strong><br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/14264092-lg.jpg" alt="" width="534" height="356" /><br>

<strong>AFTER 2</strong><br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/14264093-lg.jpg" alt="" width="534" height="356" /><br>

<strong>CULPRITS</strong><br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/14264094-lg.jpg" alt="" width="426" height="284" /><br>

<strong>SACRIFICED PARTS</strong><br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/14264095-lg.jpg" alt="" width="534" height="354" /><br>

<br>

Thanks<br />Steve O</p>

<p> </p>

<p>To answer your other question, no, if you get the battery grip you do not need the door. I bought an F100 with a grip, and came with no battery holder. I ordered one from B&H for $20 as someone else here remarked. They are available. If you don't get both a battery holder and a grip, at least get a pair of the battery holders. From what I've read this latch was the big weakness of the F100 and it's nice to have an alternative.</p>

<p>I have purchased form Boca Photo before without problems, but not since the reports of long delivery delays that Eric Sande refers to above. Nonetheless, even if they had a perfect customer service record it would not make a lot of sense to buy from them since as others have indicated the MS-12 is available and in stock for considerably less at B&H.<br>

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/165830-REG/Nikon_105_MS_12_AA_Battery_Holder.html</p>

<p>That's a nasty battery leak. I hope the thing will power up when you replace the holder. If it does, forgo the alkalines and get yourself a set of L91 Lithium AA's.</p>

<p>I believe Duracell has a guarantee that they will repair or replace any item that their batteries damage due to leakage. Keep the batteries and call Duracell.</p>

<p>Brooks/Steven -</p>

<p>Is that far right battery a Duracell?<br>

Casually, it looks different and it looks like it is the main leaking culprit.<br>

Duracell, here, may not be the nasty boy.<br>

Jim</p>

 

<p>Although this wasn't the OP's fault, I think the lesson to be learned here is to <em>never</em> put stuff away with disposable batteries still inside. I'll admit I'm guilty as well, so I'm off to remove the batteries from my old F801s, check all my flashguns for any disposable batteries, make sure the old MD12 is empty and then move on to my Sony all-band radio, etc. ...etc....etc.</p>

Look for seller "procamerarepair" on #bay. I think

they have all the parts you need.

<p>Just another thought which isn't exactly directly on point, but I am betting those batteries burst when the camera was shipped to you. Especially if the unit spent anytime in the air. But the heat in the back of a delivery truck could do it to - when I have sold to others, I ALWAYS ship with the batteries packages seperately. Good luck with the MD12.</p>