Nikon F mount lenses to EOS body adapter?

Discussion in 'Canon EOS' started by ellis_vener_photography, Dec 16, 2006.

  1. the title pretty much says it all. Any sources to recommend or avoid?
  2. The cheaper Fotodiox one works just fine.
  3. Ebay has always had a mixed bag of these adapters, from excellent to average to poor.

    Cost is not really even much of a criteria, or brand either. Most store bought adapters are really just repackaged Chinesse or Russian made adapters, made were costs are less. The cheapest one I bought was 5 bucks. In bulk one can buy a small quanity for less than 10 bucks each from some vendors.

    The prices are actually quite reasonable, I paid 55 bucks for a Leitz LTM to C mount adapter in the 1960's
  4. The ones from jinfinance on eBay are very cheap and he ships very quickly. The first one I bought 2 years ago was much better than the ones I bought 6 months ago. Make sure you buy one for every lens that you have. The ones that I have been moving from lens to lens are getting more worn. Buy a couple of extras too since he combines shipping. Buying more of his can be a lot cheaper than buying some of the others available.

    Someone claims these do not allow for proper focus but I have not found any problems with my Nikon lenses from 14mm f2.8 to 400mm f2.8, on a Canon 10D and Elan IIe. Good luck!
  5. Scroll down the ebay link I placed in my last post.

    You will see some newer type adapters, with AF-Confirm .

    The ebay auctions text reads With "Our AF-Confirm adapter is an emulation of Canon EF auto-focus lens and has the electronics to communicate with the EOS camera. When you use our adapter your Nikon lenses can trigger the Focus Confirmation indicator and you can Really get the desired Light Metering Modes."
  6. the Adorama adapter is of great quality @$49.95 - contact me if you want to buy mine (used)
  7. So was I a fool to pay $200 or so for the Novoflex adapter? I figured the Ebay ones were crap quality so go first class...a mistake?
  8. "I figured the Ebay ones were crap quality so go first class...a mistake?"<p>'d only be risking $20-$30. Its like the people who agonize over the 50/1.4 or 50/1.8. If the 50/1.8 suxed, you're only out $80. Realistically less, cuz you can just sell it.
  9. I bought half a dozen simple adaptors from mupi-mupi on and I'm happy with both the price and the performance. I don't think I'd have spent the money for the 'focus confirmation' type myself but it looks like a good idea.
  10. I use an adapter with focus-confirmation from eBay member happypagehk on my Nikkor*ED 400mm f/3.5 with good results. I also use generic F to EF adapters for Nikkor 24/2.8 and 28/2.8. I have a Haoda split-prism focus screen in my 20D, which I use most often with the MF lenses. The split-prism works very well with good light and appropriate subjects, but the focus-confirmation chipped adapter gives an additional advantage for low light or subjects without strong contrast features. I also use a happypagehk focus-confirmation adapter with my Contax Zeiss Planar 85/1.4, so I can get all of the help that I can for low light, plus it's great for portraits. All of my F to EF adapters are based on the el cheapo generic adapter made in China, and all of them have the same flaw, which is related to the little tab with a lock pin that clicks into the F-mount lens lock pin hole, to keep it from rotating in the adapter (see attached photos of one on a Nikkor 24/2.8). The clearance between the sides of the locking tab and the rigid body of the adapter allows a little bit of rotational movement of the lens in the adapter, and this is made worse on my used Nikkors as the lock pin holes are also a bit worn. This can be a real pain when you're trying to get critical focus with a shallow DOF lens. I've decided to dedicate the focus- confirmation adapter to the 400/3.5, so the simple solution is to glue the adapter to the lens (this is not permanent as I used Fish Glue, which is a water-soluable fine art glue). I don't use the 24 and 28mm's enough to bother (I'm selling the 28 as my Zeiss Distagon 28/2.8 is better, and I haven't really decided about the 24, as none of my 24's seem to be as good as I'd like).
  11. Hi Ellis,

    I've used these Nikon to EOS adapters:

    -cheap japanese bronze adapters from ebay.
    -cheap russian bronze adapters from ebay.
    -russian pro series adapter from ebay.
    -Fotodiox consumer adapter from
    -Fotodiox pro series adapter from

    All have worked fine except for the russian adapters. The russian adapters (consumer level and pro level) have very delicate release levers which break easily. This won't result in the lens falling off the camera, but it will make it very difficult to remove from the lens.

    If you have many Nikon lenses, you're better off buying several consumer-grade adapters instead of one professional grade adapter. I have not seen a difference in performance between the two kinds of adapters, the only practical difference is that the pro-grade adapters are easier to install and remove.

    Good luck!

  12. My ebay seller "Jinfinance" nikon glass to eos body adapters were $10 a piece. When I first got them I disassembled them to see if I could cobble a Canon FD lensmount into them. I still use FD glass on F-1, and F1N bodies and thought mabe i could use supertelephotoglass close to infinity. My modification didn't succeed so I put the 3 leaf springs and tiny spring that holds nikon lens lock in place and reassembled each one. I've had no breakage issues and the 4 main screws I reinstalled have not come loose. I have one $10 adapter for each nikon lens, 1.4x converters, and PB4 tilt shift bellows I own plus a few extra for future nikkor purchases. To use PB4 Bellows I had to also aquire a PK11 8mm extention tube to allow my EOS3 film camera's drive extra distance so to mount on tilt-shift nikon bellows.

    There is a couple of stories concerning film plane distance issues with only 1 nikon lens: the 15mm f3.5. Nikon users usually give this one lens unsatifactory reviews so I'd guess nikon made most of the 15mm 3.5 wrong. Every focal lenghth I'd tried out at local camera stores and every nikon lens I own hits infinity focus just fine. I've never tried the 15mm 3.5 rectilinear and likely won't unless one shows up locally for a test drive. Anyways I already own 14mm 2.8 in eos mount so I have no interest in Nikon's 15mm version.

    So Ellis, yes! The $10 adapters work just fine, the $80 fotodiox adapters are "thicker" thus enabling the nikon 15mm 3.5 rectilinear to focus on infinity too. The $175 cameraquest adapters work fine and the $200 novoflex work fine too.

    Personally I prefer the $10 option but some people think $175 is the only option since its (((by~far))) the most recommended adapter to buy via forums. For some reason its even recommended by people who don't even own the $175 example when I've asked "why that one?"

    You can pay $10 versus $175 or more.

    I also bought a Russian made $50 adapter a few years ago and its worthless. Lens lock doesn't work as its too big and it doesn't even fit onto most of my nikon glass or PB4 bellows. A $50 loss that stops me from ever buying any Russian made adapters ever again.

  13. One of my buds uses a passle of Nikor lenses on his Canon digi. Some of them come from a company (could be just a guy doing biz from his house, who knows?)called Foto Diox, and he got them because they have a stop screw that keeps it from twisting past the body lens lock and jamming on the camera (important he says because Nikons and Canons mount in the opposite direction and he's forever turning one or the other the wrong way!). Two of his adaptors are Novoflex, which he uses on his 2 heaviest lenses (a 180 and I think a 300)because he says they are stronger made. Third-party hearsay but I thought I'd pass it on.
  14. I have the Novoflex and it works fine with my 400 3.5 and 105 1.8 on the 20D. However, on the 20d, by f5.6 the focusing screen starts to show grainy artifacts and is rather dark, even in bright daylight at the beach.

    Metering is inaccurate. Every f-stop change would give a non-linear, different value that would not be possible to correct consistently using exposure compensation. I have to carry a separate spot meter to use this lens.

    Strength-wise the Novoflex is also OK. I'm confident the 400 3.5 wouldn't just break off from the adapter.

    James' recommendation of the Focus confirmation adapter seems like just what I need. The listing description also claims that the emulated chip also allows for all meter modes, not just center weighted. So James, do evaluative and spot/partial metering work accurately with this adapter?

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