Nikon D3100 and old SLR lens ~ raising the mirror

I picked up an old Nikon EM lens at a fle market to put on the bookcase.

Recently, (because I could!) I attached it to the body of my D3100.

Fits fine, and on manual the body accepts it.

When I press the shutter it goes click as it should, but the mirror doesn't move so I get a lovely black image!

There's a setting for keeping the mirror up which I've tried, but click and still no cigar (you rase the mirror and complete the action by switching the camera off ~ wierd).

Anybody got any ideas how I can give the old fella its occasional day in the sun?

thanks!

Cyril

How do you know the mirror didn't move?

There is only two instances the mirror of the D3100 stays up - turning on live view and when you select the option to clean the sensor (that's the one you end by turning the camera off). In the latter case, no image is taken; the mirror lock-up is strictly to get access to the sensor in order to clean it.

Your lens is currently set to f/8 and there is a 2x extender behind it. First, I would remove the extender and mount the lens itself. Second, the D3100 doesn't provide metering with non-CPU lenses, so - as you found out - you need to be in M mode. Set the aperture to wide open (f/4.5) with the aperture ring, select an appropriate shutter speed on the camera and let us know if things work then.

How do you know the mirror didn't move?

There is only two instances the mirror of the D3100 stays up - turning on live view and when you select the option to clean the sensor (that's the one you end by turning the camera off). In the latter case, no image is taken; the mirror lock-up is strictly to get access to the sensor in order to clean it.

 

Your lens is currently set to f/8 and there is a 2x extender behind it. First, I would remove the extender and mount the lens itself. Second, the D3100 doesn't provide metering with non-CPU lenses, so - as you found out - you need to be in M mode. Set the aperture to wide open (f/4.5) with the aperture ring, select an appropriate shutter speed on the camera and let us know if things work then.

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Dieter, thank you for your reply and explnations.

The image was for recognition puposes only; my attempts at photography were with the lens mounted with varoius combinations.

With the lens in place, and off Manual, a message is displayed, "No lens mounted".

Once put into manual the message goes away.

So far so good!

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My initial attempts went as follows:

Looking through the eyepiece, one can observe any subject, and one can adjust for focus accordingly.

The red focussing dots are working.

I believed that the mirror was not moving because the image is absolutely a solid black rectangle.

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Following your instructions:

I set the ring to 4.5

switched on flash (just in case)

I cannot see a way to remove the extender (physically off the body) so I retracted it as far as it could be, and spun it round to 1:1, the minimal setting.

I snapped, and found that the camera recorded an image.

voila!

now I will experiment with the old lens, as it is clear my initial assumption was flawed.

Thank you very much for assistance.

Best Regards,

Cyril

I cannot see a way to remove the extender (physically off the body) so I retracted it as far as it could be, and spun it round to 1:1,

I'm not sure if I follow this.

The teleconverter looks to be a fixed 2x(it woulnd't surprise me if variable TCs exist, but I've never seen one).

Nikon mount teleconverters and extension tubes generally have a tab of some sort on the side that you push toward the rear mount, and then can rotate and remove the back of the accessory. The normal location for this is for it to line up roughly with the lens mount release button when mounted on the camera.

I'm not sure if I follow this.

 

The teleconverter looks to be a fixed 2x(it woulnd't surprise me if variable TCs exist, but I've never seen one).

 

Nikon mount teleconverters and extension tubes generally have a tab of some sort on the side that you push toward the rear mount, and then can rotate and remove the back of the accessory. The normal location for this is for it to line up roughly with the lens mount release button when mounted on the camera.

thanks, Ben

 

I cannot see a way to remove the extender (physically off the body) so I retracted it as far as it could be, and spun it round to 1:1, the minimal setting.

 

I'm not sure if I follow this.

 

The teleconverter looks to be a fixed 2x(it woulnd't surprise me if variable TCs exist, but I've never seen one).

 

Nikon mount teleconverters and extension tubes generally have a tab of some sort on the side that you push toward the rear mount, and then can rotate and remove the back of the accessory. The normal location for this is for it to line up roughly with the lens mount release button when mounted on the camera.

I believe OP is referring to the lens itself as the "extender", with 1:1 referring to the reproduction ratio printed on the lens at its minimum focus distance.

I believe OP is referring to the lens itself as the "extender", with 1:1 referring to the reproduction ratio printed on the lens at its minimum focus distance.

Yes, I overlooked the role of the Teleconverter. When I tried to separate it from the lensI couldn't see how to. I'm taking it into the local Camera expert group and we'll see how they fare. If it's on permanently, then so be it!

I'm not sure if I follow this.

 

The teleconverter looks to be a fixed 2x(it woulnd't surprise me if variable TCs exist, but I've never seen one).

 

Nikon mount teleconverters and extension tubes generally have a tab of some sort on the side that you push toward the rear mount, and then can rotate and remove the back of the accessory. The normal location for this is for it to line up roughly with the lens mount release button when mounted on the camera.

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the folks at the camera group quickly found the broken pin and we got the TC off. It's been stored, basically further compromises quality to the old lens. Pretty much where you suggested, a paper clip worked fine. Who knows what we'll do when there's no paper anymore and the market for paper clips disappears . . . . !

How do you know the mirror didn't move?

There is only two instances the mirror of the D3100 stays up - turning on live view and when you select the option to clean the sensor (that's the one you end by turning the camera off). In the latter case, no image is taken; the mirror lock-up is strictly to get access to the sensor in order to clean it.

 

Your lens is currently set to f/8 and there is a 2x extender behind it. First, I would remove the extender and mount the lens itself. Second, the D3100 doesn't provide metering with non-CPU lenses, so - as you found out - you need to be in M mode. Set the aperture to wide open (f/4.5) with the aperture ring, select an appropriate shutter speed on the camera and let us know if things work then.

Thanks for your help, Dieter.

I now know what a teleconverter is, and I've learned something about how to use old lenses.

Thanks to everyone else who put their hands up,

Much appreciated.

Best Regards,

Cyril

I think the initial problem the OP had was only the case of severe underexposure.

very probably. Lots of lessons learned.

The "lens" that you show here is actually TWO pieces. There is a zoom lens in front and a Bell and Howell 2X teleconverter in the back. The come apart and that may be the best way to start here if you can figure it out.

In the picture of the lens, the lens is set at f8. With the converter in place, as it is, the effective aperture is f16. You don't say what ISO the camera is set at OR the shutter speed since you are in manual mode. If the camera works correctly with other lenses, you are very likely seeing extreme underexposure. Not just a black image of the back of the mirror.

if you are shooting on a relatively sunny day, set the camera to ISO 100 and 1/60 of a second and see what you get.

The "lens" that you show here is actually TWO pieces. There is a zoom lens in front and a Bell and Howell 2X teleconverter in the back. The come apart and that may be the best way to start here if you can figure it out.

 

In the picture of the lens, the lens is set at f8. With the converter in place, as it is, the effective aperture is f16. You don't say what ISO the camera is set at OR the shutter speed since you are in manual mode. If the camera works correctly with other lenses, you are very likely seeing extreme underexposure. Not just a black image of the back of the mirror.

 

if you are shooting on a relatively sunny day, set the camera to ISO 100 and 1/60 of a second and see what you get.

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Thanks Ed, yep, you're right about the TC, massive compounding problem. We had some difficulty getting it off becaust the latch was broken ~ once that was solved the we could get the lens to work. You're right about the underexposure. It turns out to be a quite acceptable Macro lens in the 70-210mm range despite it's age :-)

Who knows what we'll do when there's no paper anymore and the market for paper clips disappears . . . . !

When I used to go to a service of some kind, I got a card giving my next appointment, if any.

Now I get a 12-page print-out. There's no sign yet of paper disappearing. ;)