Nikon D300, SB900 and Elinchrom EL- Skyport Universal Trigger ?

<p> Hi,</p>

<p > </p>

<p >I have a Nikon D300 and an SB900, I know you can use the SB900 as a remote flash off camera however you have to fire the pop up flash to activate it. I do not have much experience so I might have gone about it the wrong way. I have recently bought a strobist kit and experimented with some outdoor portraits. My dilemma is that while the SB900 works great it is when I try getting in close to the subject the pop up flash is creating to much light overexposing the subject. I was looking at purchasing a Elinchrom El Skyport Universal Trigger Set. I know these are mainly used with studio lights but I had a look on YouTube and I've seen other people using them successfully using a adaptor to fit them on an Nikon SB800. I am wondering if anybody here has used this remote trigger or if there is a better alternative? I am aware that there are a lot of more expensive (and probably better) products out there, power packs and other lighting equipment, however I am not making any money from my photos so I am trying to make the most of the equipment I currently have. Can anyone offer any suggestions, has anybody used the two (D300 and SB900) with a EL-Skyport Universal Trigger? Do you think the Skyport trigger is a good option, I have heard that the cheaper ebay alternatives tend to misfire? Has anybody had any major problems with EL-Skyport Triggers? </p>

<p >Thank you very much.</p>

 

<p>Before investing in a wireless triggering set-up investigate the Nikon SG-3IR, which blocks visible light but permits the IR from the pop-up flash to work its' magic. Disregard the fact that the marketing material lists it as being compatible only with D70(s) and D200.</p>

<p>I don't know the D300, but I assume it is quite similar to D90. Here you have to enter the flash group structure in the flash set up meny at the camera. You can also specify output power for the pop up flash or if it should fire at all.</p>

<p>The SG-3IR will help with the tiny specular reflections and sometimes with subject blinking caused by the pre-exposure metering/control flashes from the pop-up ... but if the problem is that the pop-up is actually contributing the exposure in a way you don't like, just set the pop-up's power to '--' in the commander menu when you're configuring your rig with the SB-900 as a slave. That will take the pop-up's light out of the equation as far as the actual exposure goes.</p>

<p>I have used Skyports to trigger up to 8 Nikon flash from my D80 & D300. Works fine. Remember you must use manual mode on the flash. The Skyports work great, but there are two systems that are less money. I use the CyberSync system, available in the U.S. They are perfect. I've also heard very good things about the RF-602 triggers which are available on e Bay. If you are looking to save money and using them at usual portrait distance (under 100 meters) the RF-602 should be fine for you. Instead of buying expensive SB-900/800 flash, I have one SB-800 and eight SB-28. With manual mode, a flash is a flash.<br>

Kent in SD</p>

<p>I have used exactly this setup, well not exactly but close enough. I have used it with a d200 and a d700 along with an sb-600.<br /><br />I have also tried the ebay ones. Frustrating is not a strong enough word.<br /><br />The skyport works great. The only misfires I have had were user error. I would hightly recommend them. Kent is right that you have to use manual mode.<br>

I think the idea of a good wireless trigger is the way to go here, it is a great tool for what you have already but also will allow you to add to your setup over time.</p>

Make sure your popup flash is set to '--' in the commander menu, this way it will only fire the weak pre flashes to communicate. SG-3IR is not needed, just tape some overexposed slide film over it which does exactly the same job.

 

I have no problems with popup flash contaminating the shot.

<p>I do use Pocket Wizards when they are called for but I do not understand the mindset that disregards the technology of the Nikon camera/flash combinations. You are throwing away better than half of what you paid for when you bought the SB900 when you lock yourself into manual wireless triggering. Unless you are too far away for the CLS system to work it would be better to learn how to correctly use your equipment.<br>

I frequently shoot close up with the SB800 using the pop up as commander and have no problem with the photograph being over exposed because of the pop up flash. I feel sure that the SB900 is capable of the same thing. It's your settings not your equipment. </p>

<p>Gary--<br>

CLS does not work for me most of the time. I do sometimes use it for quick portraits, but almost all of my shots involve multi flash up to 200 yards away, and often placed out of line-of-sight. I also use a mix of SB-28 and WL X3200 monolights. I need their power. For the price of one SB-900, I can buy three or four SB-28 or one used X3200 with ~20 times the power.</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>Make sure your popup flash is set to '--' in the commander menu, this way it will only fire the weak pre flashes to communicate.</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Actually, the pop-up fires during the exposure, even when set to "--". A fluke of the CLS system, so I have been told.</p>

<p>Thank you all for the prompt responses. I have changed the power settings for the pop up flash to "--"on my D300 and as some of you have mentioned the flash still fires however the actual power or amount of light coming from it is minimal and does not really affect what you are trying to photograph. Mind you I have only tried it on some inanimate objects and it seems to work, I'll have to try it with a person to see if it does cause people to blink or make them uncomfortable in any way. <br>

</p><div></div>

<p>When photographing people, they won't even notice it. I used to use that setup all the time before I got studio lights.</p>

<p>I have only tried the CLS outside 2 times. Very ineffective. Inside it almost always fires. I turn the built in flash off(--).Here is my first test shot using CLS. Shot with self timer. A 38"x38" inch bank light(sb800) to my left, a bank light to my back shoulder (sb600)and a sb26 direct with a diffuser as a fill for the book self( set off with built in slave). Not a great shot, but no wires. I had fun figuring out the set-up for holding the chimera soft boxes. Turned out very sturdy.<img src="http://edkelly.smugmug.com/photos/820899046_bszxH-M.jpg" alt="" />Shot with self timer. A 38"x38" inch bank light(sb800) to my left, a bank light to my back shoulder (sb600)and a sb26 direct with a diffuser as a fill for the book self( set off with built in slave). Not a great shot, but no wires. I had fun figuring out the set-up for holding the chimera soft boxes. Turned out very sturdy.</p>

<p>i'd like to ask a question about new (Used) skyport trigger receiver set.<br>

I have a pocket wizard pc cable attatched to a skyport el receiver and an SB 900, with the trigger in a Nikon D300 and D3S. o have the flash set for manual, and the channel set to 1 down, 2 down, 3 up (channel 3?), group set to 1,<br>

the D300 is set up for group 3, matching etc, but i really have no clue what to set the D3S to . . . <br>

any suggestions?</p>

<p>HI Bolst. I'm using el-skyport 1 Trans & 2 reicever with SB 900 and SB800 +D300 . There 8 channels.The setting which u have mentioned is CH-5.<br>

About ur Question. U said u have EL transmeter on both D300 and D3S. Unless u switch the transmeter to "ALL" u cannot use the flash. Because camera is looking for Group 3 while ur SB900 is set to Group 1.<br>

<em><strong>Setting different Group is usefull when u have more than 1 flash. Inorder to trigger SB900, set the same settings of group & channels which you've on ur flash also set on ur transmeter. Let say u have 1 SB900 and 1 SB800. U put 1st on Group 1 and 2nd on 2. Now, u can trigger both the flash with trigger switched to "ALL" or if u want to meter or use each flash seprately then change to the group Number of ur choice. </strong></em><br>

AT last, if u set ur flash to group 1 then set both D300 and D3S to group 1.<br>

I hope this will help</p>