Nikon D300 built-in-flash

<p>Guys, <br>

I am trying to use my built-in-flash unit to command my SB-800, but I do not want the built-in-flash to fire up, just to command; is there anyway to disable this unit but at the same time have it as a commander to fire up the off-camera flash ? Please advise and thank you in advance for your help.<br>

Best regards<br>

Maurice.</p>

<p>it will always flash *somewhat* since that is how it communicates w/ the SB-800. Set the on-board flash to --- to minimize it. if you need even less light (doubtful in the real world), Nikon makes a plastic blocking thing SG-IR for a few dollars.</p>

<p>Thanks Howard, you are right. Now I must find out how it does behave when set to ---. The other option would be to buy the SU-800 ( I guess ). For now, I will try this option and see how it does work.</p>

<p>The plastic blocking thingy is the SG-3IR (about $13). It's mostly useful when you're shooting either very close, or into reflective surfaces, or when you want to help avoid a reflex blink from your subject, if they're sensitive.<br /><br />You will see a pre-exposure metering/communication flash from the pop-up, even when it's on '--', if you're using the slaves in TTL mode. You can cut down on some of that by telling the slave unit(s) to fire at a manual power level.</p>

<p>It is totally possible to use the D300 as a commander and not have the on board flash fire.<br>

It is a matter of setting the mode(s) properly and it is spelled out in the user guide.<br>

I have done it many times and it works without any kind of blocking thingy.</p>

 

<p>Actually Tom, it is NOT possible for the on board flash to NOt fire at all...the difference is that this flash occurs BEFORE the shutter is tripped and therefore is not taken into account in the overall flash output. Matt is correct - you could cut down a bit on the intensity of that pre-flash by asking the flashes to fire at Manual mode. Otherwise, the camera NEEDs that preflash to calculate the light needed (in TTL mode)...</p>

<p>Still, if it bothers you so much, try the IR blocker (the cheap solution) or the SU800 commander - the more expensive solution...;-)))</p>

<p><em>" it is NOT possible for the on board flash to NOt fire at all...the difference is that this flash occurs BEFORE the shutter is tripped and therefore is not taken into account in the overall flash output."</em> - what happens BEFORE the shutter is open, happens before, and there is plenty of it... </p>

<p>... however, the final CLS flash trigger signal must happen when the shutter is open, and it therefore WILL, or COULD be visible in close range portraits and also at high ISO, ... that is why you need the IR filter, as Matt explained.</p>

<p><em>"The plastic blocking thingy is the SG-3IR (about $13). It's mostly useful when you're shooting either very close, or into reflective surfaces, or when you want to help avoid a reflex blink from your subject, if they're sensitive."</em><br>

Thanks Matt for the above explanation and will definitely take it in consideration since the more expensive solution as Marios pointed, is not possible at this time since I am saving money to buy another flash unit, probably the SB-900. <br>

Thank you Tom, but next time if you know something, please share it and don't send somebody to read the manual, because If I posted this question, is because the manual does not say anything about it. I did my homework I guess, but I thank you anyway because you lead the rest of the people below you, to give me their advises and help.<br>

<em><br /></em></p>

<p>The Nikon commander trigger signal can reflect to cause a catchlight in close or shiny things - even the eyeball catchlights in close portraits - and the SG-3IR panel can prevent it (designed for close macro work). But it is not usually a problem, and is usually not necessary in most situations.<br>

You can see examples at http://www.scantips.com/lights/awl.html#panel</p>

<p>Thank you so much Wayne. Very helpful the link you provided. I am going to buy that flash cover. <br>

Best regards<br>

Maurice</p>

<p>Does anyone knows what is the max distance from the D300 built-in-flash unit ( with the SG-3IR on it ) to the other flash units to trigger them when shooting outdoor ? The SU-800 is about 66 feet on the book but in real world, it won't trigger any flash unit longer than 50 feet away from it, and if there is any obstacle in between, it won't also, so I am wondering what would be the max distance using the built-in-flash with the SG-3IR unit on it ? The reason I do ask this question is because I am shooting outdoor portraits with my tele ( 70-300 mm ) and I must be kind of pretty far away sometimes from my subject. For indoor I do not see any problem but for outdoor, I would like to know if anyone of you have experience or had measure the max distance from the camera to the slave flash. I know that if the SB-800 / SB-900 are used as commanders on the camera, the distance is even more than using the SU-800, probably between 70-80 feet, so what would be the max distance using the built-in-flash with the SG-3IR on it ? </p>

<p>You do NOT need the SG-3IR shield at any halfway long distance. Only for close and shiny subjects, for example macro work.</p>

<p>My experience, using D300 internal commander to trigger a SB-800 in Remote mode,<br /> with the flash indoors (aimed out the open door via 50 foot path in the house),<br /> and the camera across the street in bright sun (flash must see that target), then:</p>

<p>the D300 triggered it from 118 to 120 feet.</p>

<p>With the SG-3IR shield on D300, from 77 feet.</p>

<p>A SB-800 commander on the hot shoe triggered it from 88 feet (no IR shield, but same situation). However, long zoom would strengthen it.</p>

<p>The SU-800 has the similar internal IR shield, and I would expect slightly less, 50 to 60 feet, from hearsay.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I agree, that once you're at a significant distance, the IR blocking device isn't necessary. Distance is going to be difficult to predict, because it depends on the ambient light, on whether the slaves units have their lower halves rotated in point their IR sensors at the camera, whether you've got any light modifiers obscuring things, etc. <br /><br />If I need real distance, I use radio triggers. I don't think I've used the optical trigger at more than 75 feet. Just haven't needed to.</p>