Nikkor-Q 135/2.8 Restoration

Hi everybody, I bought Nikkor-Q 135/2.8 for a good price

as a restoration project. I have no problems whatsoever

with disassembling and reassembling the lens, but what I

would like to ask is what chemicals should I use for

cleaning everything - the lens, old grease on the focusing

mechanism, apperture mechanism and so on. Also, what

do you use to relubricate the focusing mechanism? Some

people tell me I can use rubbing alcohol

(isopropylalcohol) for cleaning the lens, some say I

shouldnt. What are you using?

<p>I use my breath and a clean heavyweight microfiber lens cleaning cloth http://www.adorama.com/CPCML.html .<br>

I use CRC Quick Dry Electrical Contact Cleaner for degreasing parts. Its safe on plastics. http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-11-oz-QD-Electronic-Cleaner-05103/205021975</p>

<p>90% Isopropyl Alcohol can be used to clean the metal parts also but I would not use it on the lens elements.</p>

<p>For any and all solvents used on glass, always take some and let it evaporate on a mirror or plate of clear glass and see if it leaves any residue. Many solvents, especially alcohol, have oils, aloe, perfumes, denaturing, etc. added, and these may remain on the glass after cleaning. The gel alcohol hand cleaners are good for many parts, but you have to check for residue there too.<br>

Also, never apply solvent directly to any part. Use a clean, lintless rag.</p>

<p>FWIW, here is the RF Nikkor-Q 135mm f/3.5</p><div></div>

<p>Acetone on a cloth or toothbrush will clean the old, dried out grease that can't be wiped off. Best practice for the grease is to use lens-specific grease that won't outgas or separate like common mechanical grease. Check out Micro-Tools.com for grease.</p>

<p>For removal of grease I would just wipe it away dry with a non-shedding material like a man-made fibre cloth. No need for a fancy micro-fibre cloth. Replace with a good quality lithium based mineral grease. Check first that the existing grease actually needs replacement. No point in removing it if it's still fit for purpose. It may just need working a little to reconstitute it.</p>

<p>I tried a "spread" separation test on a few greases. The least oily spread with time and heat was from a lithium-based car grease. Most spread came from a low viscosity silicone grease, followed by a higher viscosity silicone grease. And in any case, silicone grease doesn't work well on aluminium or Dural. High-vacuum rated greases have very little outgassing, but they're also high in viscocity and not really suitable for sliding lubrication.</p>

<p>Apiezon supply silicone-free low outgassing greases for high vacuum applications, but they're not cheap!</p>

<p>I use my breath and a clean heavyweight microfiber lens cleaning cloth Microdear Microfiber Deluxe Cleaning Cloth, .<br>

I use CRC Quick Dry Electrical Contact Cleaner for degreasing parts. Its safe on plastics. CRC 11 oz. QD Electronic Cleaner-05103 - The Home Depot</p>

<p>90% Isopropyl Alcohol can be used to clean the metal parts also but I would not use it on the lens elements.</p>

 

 

Be careful assuming specific brand aerosol solvent products with functional names like ‘electronics cleaner’, ‘precision parts cleaner’, etc. will have the same recipes forever.

I have used some that evolved, and kept the same product name but changed the product number due to formulation changes (to reduce/eliminate certain classes of chemicals).

 

Miller-Stephenson brown-text Precision Cleaner (I don’t have a can of it handy to give the product number) has changed drastically. Eliminated the chloro-fluoro type components, replaced with some other, and while it is fine on metals, it is now very aggressive toward some plastics but not others.

 

I have tried to use aerosols outdoors to reduce odor/inhalation, and they cool upon expansion from the compressed state, causing a lot of condensation in warm weather...now there is water all over when you started with a water-free solvent!

 

Another really bad mistake was using a Teflon-containing liquid. That shutter now only works at 1/400! I tried the same solvent base the Teflon-enhanced product had, hoping it would re-dissolve the ‘Teflon-coating’ but no such luck. It’s everywhere inside. Not worth paying for a CLA, and I don't need that camera enough to shop for another identical shutter (easy because it’s on a lens-board, but I do not need/want).

(snip)

Another really bad mistake was using a Teflon-containing liquid. That shutter now only works at 1/400! I tried the same solvent base the Teflon-enhanced product had, hoping it would re-dissolve the ‘Teflon-coating’ but no such luck. It’s everywhere inside. Not worth paying for a CLA, and I don't need that camera enough to shop for another identical shutter (easy because it’s on a lens-board, but I do not need/want).

 

You can use that one, along with the cameras that don't go up to 1/400 anymore.

 

To be closer to topic, I have a Vivitar 24/2.0 lens that only stays at 2.0.

 

After that, I bought a used Nikon AI 24/2.8 which still works fine. (At least I think it does.)

 

But if I needed 24/2.0, the other one would still work.

 

Though that means carrying two lenses around, so I usually don't.

I was just given an ‘antique’ (2001) Nikon D1X with a 28-200 zoom lens that moves the distance ring but not the optics (doesn’t focus). Manual rotation doesn’t help and it occasional won’t rotate (loose parts?),

 

I am not putting any chemicals in it. I was debating (with myself) whether to toss it, take it apart, sell it for parts, or...

 

Surely not worth the cost of repair...

 

But last night I found it’s ‘parked’ at the ‘low end’, about 2 m (seemed closer to me)...I was able to ‘shuffle focus’ like I’ve done with fixed focus lenses on a mirrorless camera.

 

Then I thought I can stop down for DOF...it still passes light & focuses SOMEwhere.

 

Have to find a CF memory no larger than 1 GB first...looks like that is a little easier than 127 film...neither is available locally, mail-order options appear over extreme price range.

 

Hmmm, expired pixels, expired film..,