Nikkor manual lenses...

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by hjoseph7, Jul 5, 2020.

  1. Chill. hjoseph7 claimed he paid peanuts for the lens and accepted the risk the treatment might fail. Not exactly like he was attempting DIY repairs on a home dialysis machine. It's a quandary now for anyone facing repairs(good luck finding any)on beloved old gear that wasn't top-shelf in its day and whose current value is low--fix it yourself or pitch it.

    Few amateurs have access to the wide range of specialty lubricants for camera/lens repairs. Unlike WD-40, their viscosity and temperature resistance kept them in place.
    To be fair, I won't buy a used film body/lens that smells like it was marinated in the stuff. It's really a water dispersant, hence the name "WD."
    Fiddlefye likes this.
  2. It seems possible to me that in this specific case perhaps the old lube had thickened and the the WD-40 thinned it enough for things to work. It could be a short window.
  3. I wouldn't put WD-40 in lens either, but I do have to mention that it's a bit of an error to say it's not a lubricant because it is designed to displace water. It's several things at once and one of them is a thin lubricant,along with some cleaning and water displacing components and some sort of penetrant. Whether it's any good at its various jobs, or better than other things, I leave for others to chew on, but it does do a few things. I note that the can shown above was not ordinary WD-40 either, so who knows?

    My go-to stuff for stuck and gooey things is usually Ronson lighter fluid, which really isn't a lubricant, but is a solvent, and seems, if used in moderation, not to leave a residue.
    bgelfand and Brian like this.
  4. WD 40 branded dry lube PTFE spray is not the same stuff as the original WD 40 water displacement.
  5. Everybody has a right to their own opinion. I'm not twisting anybody's arm. All I know is that right now I'm a very happy camper, knock on wood...
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2020
  6. Lubricant migration is a serious problem in Nikon lenses, especially if it gets on the diaphragm or between lenses. Ordinary grease is a suspension of oil in a soap-based gel. In time, the oil leaks from its matrix and contaminates the lens. Sometime early in this century, Nikon started using synthetic grease, which is a single component. I had two legacy lenses, a 50/1.4 and 55/2.8 in which the diaphragm seized due to oil contamination. Once cleaned and re-greased, no further problems in nearly 20 years.

    WD-40 is a penetrating oil which relies on "migration." Use it for frozen bolts under your car, not for stiff lenses or firearms. Some components in WD-40 oxide in time, forming a varnish-like substance.
  7. Got the 43-86 with my Nikkormat.
    • It was a GREAT day time lens. I loved that 1-ring push/pull zoom, so convenient and fast to use. Mine was a pre-AI lens. I later got a version 2, AI lens.
    • But it sucked when shooting indoor/gym sports. That f/3.5 was much slower in use, than I had thought when I bought it. With 20/20 hind sight, I would have been better off with the 50/1.4, for what I was primarily using it for, high school yearbook. In a relatively dim high school gym, giving up 2-1/2 stops, was a really BAD idea. Even today I use a 35/1.8 at f/2 on my D7200 at ISO 3200. Back then we were pushing Tri-X up to 1200. So that f/3.5 lens was at a terrible handicap. Wrong tool for the job.
  8. No problem there, but do not put the camera down on it's back for longer periods of time, the WD40 will "Migrate"to your camera body also, it is designed to do that, and it will harm your camera after some time..
  9. This is not your regular WD-40 . This is the "WD-40 Specialist" is what it says on the back of the can, it also says:
    Provides superior lubrication and long-lasting corrosion protection with no oily residue.
    Use when cleanliness and maximum performance are required. Wont attract dust. Dries in seconds.
    Temperature range -50 F - 500 F.

    Tell you the truth, I didn't read all that when I bought this stuff. I was just worried that oil would drip from the ceiling fan unto my bed.
    **Cost to clean oily aperture blades is $100+ plus shipping.
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2020
  10. I do know this stuff, "WD-40 Specialist" is a series of diffrerent lubricating and solvent products, the one you coose from this series is a semi dry lubricant& cleaner meant for locks and bolts and other mechanical low friction surfaces.

    Trouble with this stuf is , it desolves also other old lubricants if they are there and makes them "liquid" so that they can flow away. The solvent in this (and all WD-40 specialist series, eveporates , but the liquidified older lubricants do not...


  11. The WD 40 branded product (! forget the brand name! The stuff used is not WD 40, the product the name is taken from) used is a 'teflon' dry lubricant. It is not a penetrating oil. It will not migrate.
  12. FWIW, I've had a couple lenses that really needed an overhaul, but just weren't worth my time to do it. I've had excellent success by taking them apart just enough to access the helical and adding a drop or two of oil, usually Breakfree or Superlube, which is compatible with petro lubes. Work the focus back and forth and they usually free up and stay that way for a good long while. Not my preferred method but for lenses where it's cheaper to just buy another one, it's worth a try. I would not use anything that comes in an aerosol can for anything to do with lenses or cameras. Most anything that comes from the auto parts store is equally unsuitable.
  13. I have a 55mm f/2.8 AI-S Micro-Nikkor that I bought cheap because it was completely frozen(although the aperture is good). A few drops of lighter fluid got it moving freely at least until it evaporated. On that lens, at the closest focus distance, the helicals are barely accessible with no disassembly. I put a TINY amount of Moebius synthetic watch mainspring grease on it, and it's been fine since. Time will tell!
    chulster likes this.
  14. My 55mm f2.8 macro lens may be the sharpest Nikon lens I have ever owned in 50 years. I last used it for landscapes on my D810. I will try it out on my D850.
    chulster likes this.
  15. FWIW I picked up my first manual lens, NIkon 35mm F2.0 Ai. With my D600 using the AF confirmation dot in the viewfinder wide open at F2.0 it's not that sharp, it needs maybe a stop closed down. This isn't about pixel quality, you can see the difference on the camera's back LCD.

    Compared to my 50mm F1.8 AFD, it is better wide open. Not sure about the 35mm F2.0 AFD however. I generally agree if manual is not required the modern lenses are better. In terms of a manual lens not that much offerings now other than maybe something like Zeiss?
  16. If you ever do macro work, try the older 55mm f/3.5
  17. I got this one a couple of days ago, and I intend to use it only for macro, so I have this and Nikon 105mm and then for butterflies I have on the wish list Laowa 150mm (if I can learn manual focus handheld) or 180 Sigma.
  18. White Lithium Grease available at the local hardware store works well for helicals and cams. For loose helicals- either worn or just too much slop: I use Vacuum pump grease. You can find the same type of grease in the Plumbing department at the hardware store, thick lubricant. The main thought to keep in mind: use very little, otherwise the focus will be too tight. I've been doing DIY repairs for over 30 years now, so some long-term life testing of the products. They work.

    I've found Light oil used by camera repair shops on Ebay, and have used it to repair a Contax IIIA, Minolta Hi-Matic 9, Minolta AL-E, Nikon F2, and several Barnack Leica bodies given to me.
  19. If you look closely at the can, it is not the original WD-40. It is a "Specialists" version; a PTFE lubricant. I prefer Break Free CLP, but this should be the WD40 brand equivalent.

    Oops, sorry, I did not see "page 2" of the replies until after I posted.
  20. on the good side there are SOME places like midwest camera that say theyll give lens repair a try out, if you want to spend money.

    And at the same time, they use the new lubricant. stuff that was put into my diacord g, that stuff is supposed to be good for 50 years in the camera.

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