NIKKOR AIs Nikkor 35-105mm f/3.5-4.5?

I'm looking at this lens, sold here on Craigslist, for my Nikon F Photomic. I do realize that it would be tough shooting in low light levels with this, but more concerned with the 'push-pull' lens mechanism and it's reliability.

The lens isn't a king's ransom, $75, but perhaps there are others much better that won't break the bank?

 

Thanks!

Check out Roberts Camera's Used Photo Pro - great selection,condition & prices. Have bought a lot from them and never a bad purchase. Guaranteed as well.

The lens isn't a king's ransom, $75, but perhaps there are others much better that won't break the bank?

 

I don't have any experience with the manual-focus version of this lens, but the last AF version is pretty good and built quite tough, I think. Other decent choices in MF zooms spanning 50mm are the 28-85mm f/3.5-4.5 AiS and the 35-70mm f/3.5 Ai or AiS. The last is quite good optically, but with such a short zoom range, I almost never want to use it.

Check out Roberts Camera's Used Photo Pro - great selection,condition & prices. Have bought a lot from them and never a bad purchase. Guaranteed as well.

 

Thanks Sandy, looks like a good selection there, but the read I get is now to buy their 'good' rating, only perhaps the 'very good' rated ones would give confidence. They've got several of the 35-105mm's at $30, but with severe issues such as dust or fog.

I'm likely going for this if it passes inspection, it looks like a low cost method of expanding my choices.

 

Thanks!

I don't have any experience with the manual-focus version of this lens, but the last AF version is pretty good and built quite tough, I think. Other decent choices in MF zooms spanning 50mm are the 28-85mm f/3.5-4.5 AiS and the 35-70mm f/3.5 Ai or AiS. The last is quite good optically, but with such a short zoom range, I almost never want to use it.

 

I read Ken Rockwell's review, and though the lens has downsides like any, he gave it generally good marks. Hoping it passes inspection, I'm looking at a train trestle this weekend and it's tough to get where I want to be on foot.

 

Thanks!

Thanks Sandy, looks like a good selection there, but the read I get is now to buy their 'good' rating, only perhaps the 'very good' rated ones would give confidence. They've got several of the 35-105mm's at $30, but with severe issues such as dust or fog.

I'm likely going for this if it passes inspection, it looks like a low cost method of expanding my choices.

 

Thanks!

I have bought lesser things listed as good, and they were just that. Lenses, Very Good or Excellent is what I buy. Remember return and merchandise is guaranteed. Good luck - in this area, I have found that patience goes hand in hand with luck!

As for the push-pull there is a 'feeling' that the suction pulls dust and debris into the lens. I haven't had much problems with such lenses, although I try not to shoot them in exceptionally dusty conditions (trans. don't take it to Burning Man or Holi). There is no problem with reliability that is serious, although lens creep can be a problem on occasion.

Do you have a Nikon F Photomic (T, Tn, or Ftn) with through the lens metering, or the "Nikon F Photomic" Bullseye? The latter will have problems metering with this lens because of the variable aperture.If so: look for the 43~86/3.5 Ai version (11-element design). Best to use a constant F-Stop lens with the older meter.

I'm looking at this lens, sold here on Craigslist, for my Nikon F Photomic. I do realize that it would be tough shooting in low light levels with this, but more concerned with the 'push-pull' lens mechanism and it's reliability.

The lens isn't a king's ransom, $75, but perhaps there are others much better that won't break the bank?

 

Thanks!

 

I've used the Push/Pull 43-86 for YEARS, and I LIKE it. NEVER had an issue with it.

I recently replaced the 43-86 with the 35-105, because I wanted the greater zoom range.

 

I had and still have both the 43-86 and 80-200 push/pull zooms.

 

The BIG reason that I like push/pull zooms is, I can zoom AND focus at the same time, without moving my hand to the other ring (focus or zoom).

On a manual focus lens, once you get used to a push/pull lens, especially for moderate to fast moving subjects (like a child in a playground), you won't want to go back to a 2-ring zoom, I don't. With a 2-ring zoom, you can either zoom OR focus, you cannot easily do both at the same time.

 

Others may prefer to set the zoom and not have the lens change focal length as they focus, so prefer separate focus and zoom rings. It just depends on your shooting style, and what you are used to.

 

The other thing is something that has gotten lost over time. On the Nikon push/pull zooms, the Depth of Field scale, changes as you zoom. So you know approximately what the DoF is at any zoom focal length. Until the recent Canon EF 70-300 with the electronic display, DoF scale display was not possible on a 2-ring zoom.

 

A caution, as with ANY old lens is damage and dried lube.

Binding

Dried lube can similarly cause the lens to be hard to zoom.

Some push/pull zooms are silky smooth (the 80-200/4.5 was/is a classic example), others require more force to zoom (even when new). Don't get confused with a zoom that requires more force to zoom with a damaged zoom.

Do you have a Nikon F Photomic (T, Tn, or Ftn) with through the lens metering, or the "Nikon F Photomic" Bullseye? The latter will have problems metering with this lens because of the variable aperture.If so: look for the 43~86/3.5 Ai version (11-element design). Best to use a constant F-Stop lens with the older meter.

 

I'm hoping to respond correctly here, but the manual I received says Nikon F Photomic, however the manual also shows the detachable view finder as having a 'light acceptance window' and a 'battery chamber lid', both on the left side of the viewfinder. The viewfinder could easily been changed out though during its long life.

So the camera would have metering problems from the variable aperture? I'd appreciate if you could expand on this? I do have a Gossen Luna Pro I could use while using this lens it required.

 

Thanks!

I've used the Push/Pull 43-86 for YEARS, and I LIKE it. NEVER had an issue with it.

I recently replaced the 43-86 with the 35-105, because I wanted the greater zoom range.

 

I had and still have both the 43-86 and 80-200 push/pull zooms.

 

The BIG reason that I like push/pull zooms is, I can zoom AND focus at the same time, without moving my hand to the other ring (focus or zoom).

On a manual focus lens, once you get used to a push/pull lens, especially for moderate to fast moving subjects (like a child in a playground), you won't want to go back to a 2-ring zoom, I don't. With a 2-ring zoom, you can either zoom OR focus, you cannot easily do both at the same time.

 

Others may prefer to set the zoom and not have the lens change focal length as they focus, so prefer separate focus and zoom rings. It just depends on your shooting style, and what you are used to.

 

The other thing is something that has gotten lost over time. On the Nikon push/pull zooms, the Depth of Field scale, changes as you zoom. So you know approximately what the DoF is at any zoom focal length. Until the recent Canon EF 70-300 with the electronic display, DoF scale display was not possible on a 2-ring zoom.

 

A caution, as with ANY old lens is damage and dried lube.

Binding

A damaged lens could bind, so the push/pull binds at some point in the zoom, or could be TIGHT through the entire zoom range.

Bottom line, if the zoom ring does not move without binding, send it back. Damage is not worth the repair cost.

Dried lube can similarly cause the lens to be hard to zoom.

I have seen a lens where the lube had dried so badly that it was like clay or tar, and the ring required a LOT of force to turn.

Once cleaned and relubed, the focus ring turned easily and smoothly.

I have a 75-300 where the lube migrated and partially dried, so that when zoomed to either extreme ends, the zoom mechanism gets stuck in the lube, and requires extra FORCE to get it moving. Think of how your foot gets stuck in mud, essentially the same thing. Move the lens away from the end position, and it zooms just fine.

Some push/pull zooms are silky smooth (the 80-200/4.5 was/is a classic example), others require more force to zoom (even when new). Don't get confused with a zoom that requires more force to zoom with a damaged zoom.

 

Thanks Gary for this great informative post. If I'm able to see it tomorrow these issues will be what I'll be testing. Always a risk buying used equipment of course, but I do see some potential in this lens for what I want to do.

I have the 35-105 in question, and used it for some time with a Nikon F Ftn, and later with an F3. I did not find its variable aperture that much of an issue with exposure, because the variable aperture does at least move the needle. As long as you keep your eye on the meter needle, there's no problem. The real issue with variable aperture zooms comes from non-TTL meters, since the change does not show.

 

So the lens would require some compensation with the original Photomic, which does not read through the lens, or with a hand held meter. It works fine with a TTL meter.

 

This lens gets mixed reviews, but mine was decently sharp. I found its pseudo-macro mode pretty annoying to use, and it's not even close to parfocal, so it needs to be focused at every new focal length. That was a problem with mine because it had a very loose zoom, so I basically had to keep my hand on it all the time. I have read that this lens was prey to considerable sample variation.

 

I always found it appropriate to cuss this lens for its faults, but in actual, practical use it made good pictures, and functioned well for many years, a good default zoom for walking around.

 

Interestingly, I bought this lens used at the same time as I also got the contemporaneous 80-200/F4, a design so different (and so much better in many ways) that it might have been made by an entirely different company.

I have the 35-105 in question, . . . I always found it appropriate to cuss this lens for its faults, but in actual, practical use it made good pictures, and functioned well for many years, a good default zoom for walking around.

 

I had the 43-86 for many years and found it similar, in that I gave me decent pictures that were just fine with me.

It's only fault was the slow f/3.5 aperture, back in the days of 50/1.4 normal lenses and slow film (compared to today).

 

Interestingly, I bought this lens used at the same time as I also got the contemporaneous 80-200/F4, a design so different (and so much better in many ways) that it might have been made by an entirely different company.

 

I think that would be comparing a consumer grade lens to a pro-sumer/pro grade lens. Extending zoom vs internal zoom.

It would be like me comparing my DX 18-70 or 18-140 to my FX 70-200/4. consumer vs. pro. Extending zoom vs internal zoom.

 

What I don't get is why the zoom ring of the 80-200 f/4 lens was not as smooth and light as the f/4.5 lens. At least I have not seen an f/4 lens that was smooth and light. And I'm still searching for one.

I'm hoping to respond correctly here, but the manual I received says Nikon F Photomic, however the manual also shows the detachable view finder as having a 'light acceptance window' and a 'battery chamber lid', both on the left side of the viewfinder. The viewfinder could easily been changed out though during its long life.

So the camera would have metering problems from the variable aperture? I'd appreciate if you could expand on this? I do have a Gossen Luna Pro I could use while using this lens it required.

 

Thanks!

 

This is the original Nikon F Photomic, with light acceptance window (meter cell). I have the Incidence Light attachment in place. The meter is coupled, but not "through the lens". The meter assumes that the position of the "Bunny Rabbit Ears" indicates the F-Stop in use. The problem with variable Aperture lenses: the true F-Stop in use only matches the meter at one focal length. With a TTL meter, the amount of light is reduced, so the exposure works out.

Indeed, the original Photomic will need some compensation, but it's not all that hard to do, as I recall. If you have the time you could use the filter factors on the dial, but given that the F has only full stop steps on both shutter and aperture, and that the meter is probably not super-accurate and needs some second guessing for difficult subjects, and that film has some latitude for overexposure, I'd just center the needle as usual, addint the initial judgment as to whether the averaged reading is good, and then if you're zoomed in, increase the exposure by something between 0 and 1 stop depending on the length, without getting too obsessive about it.

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This is the original Nikon F Photomic, with light acceptance window (meter cell). I have the Incidence Light attachment in place. The meter is coupled, but not "through the lens". The meter assumes that the position of the "Bunny Rabbit Ears" indicates the F-Stop in use. The problem with variable Aperture lenses: the true F-Stop in use only matches the meter at one focal length. With a TTL meter, the amount of light is reduced, so the exposure works out.

 

Here's my F, with the metered viewfinder. Despite having the original PX 13 batteries it does match the readings I get on the Gossen Luna Pro with the Wein Cells installed. I'm trying to work with and get better with the Gossen, thinking it's a better habit and will give more accurate readings as the F's batteries decline.

Glad you mentioned the 'Bunny Ears', this has confused me. Though the notched 'ears' are connected to the viewfinder bottom front 'pin', with the front scale reading 1.2, 2.8, and 5.6 in red, this scale doesn't move when the aperture ring is moved. Sorry for the amateur description.

 

You have the Nikon Ftn Photomic meter, the last version and best of the F meter heads. The scale up front should indicate the maximum F-Stop of the lens- as shown on yours, F1.4. When mounting a lens, set the lens to F5.6 to engage the pin on the finder. Then turn the aperture ring to the max and min F-Stop of the lens. This procedure is known as the "F5.6 Shuffle" and "Indexes" the meter to the lens.

 

You have a late model body, known as the Nikon F "Apollo". The Nikon F as modified for NASA included a large tip for the film advance. The Tip made its way to Nikon cameras around 1972 or so, Pop photo and other reviewers started calling it the "Apollo version"..

 

The 35~105 is a good lens, but does show a lot of distortion (Barrel and Pin-Cushion) at the extremes of the range. No worse than the 43~86 and 36~72.

Edited July 21, 2019 by Brian

You have the Nikon Ftn Photomic meter, the last version and best of the F meter heads. The scale up front should indicate the maximum F-Stop of the lens- as shown on yours, F1.4. When mounting a lens, set the lens to F5.6 to engage the pin on the finder. Then turn the aperture ring to the max and min F-Stop of the lens. This procedure is known as the "F5.6 Shuffle" and "Indexes" the meter to the lens.

 

You have a late model body, known as the Nikon F "Apollo". The Nikon F as modified for NASA included a large tip for the film advance. The Tip made its way to Nikon cameras around 1972 or so, Pop photo and other reviewers started calling it the "Apollo version"..

 

Thank you! I'm thrilled to have this, and now understand better how the viewfinder reflects the mounted lens.

That's a nice F there. As mentioned above, the lens needs to be indexed by doing the "shuffle," after which the indicator on the front should show the lens's minimum aperture, and the meter will properly function. For a lens without coupling you can also push up on the prong in the meter, and the meter by stopping down the lens with the preview button.

 

This camera will work with the lens in question without any fuss, and unlike the hand held meter the camera's meter will compensate for the changing aperture.

 

If and when the old batteries fail, it is possible to recalibrate one of these to use 1.5 volt silver oxide cells, or alkalines. You need to keep a watch on alkalines as their voltage drops with use, but they do work all right if you pay attention to the battery status indicator. Unfortunately, unlike some other old cameras whose battery connections are made at the ends, this one contacts the edge of the battery, so you cannot substitute smaller cells with an o-ring as is sometimes done. You must either use the big cells, get/make metal rings, or fudge it with tinfoil.

 

You can also compensate by offsetting the ASA by a couple of stops. If you have another reliable meter, just take a reading, set the camera to that reading, then change the ASA until the meter needle is centered. Use as close to an average gray viewpoint as possible, because the camera's meter is center-weighted, and is also not equally sensitive to all colors.

 

One of the great invisible virtues of the later "Apollo" F's is that the strap lugs are reinforced. Users of old F's often find that their brass lugs have worn right through. Yours never will.

That's a nice F there. As mentioned above, the lens needs to be indexed by doing the "shuffle," after which the indicator on the front should show the lens's minimum aperture, and the meter will properly function. For a lens without coupling you can also push up on the prong in the meter, and the meter by stopping down the lens with the preview button.

 

This camera will work with the lens in question without any fuss, and unlike the hand held meter the camera's meter will compensate for the changing aperture.

 

If and when the old batteries fail, it is possible to recalibrate one of these to use 1.5 volt silver oxide cells, or alkalines. You need to keep a watch on alkalines as their voltage drops with use, but they do work all right if you pay attention to the battery status indicator. Unfortunately, unlike some other old cameras whose battery connections are made at the ends, this one contacts the edge of the battery, so you cannot substitute smaller cells with an o-ring as is sometimes done. You must either use the big cells, get/make metal rings, or fudge it with tinfoil.

 

You can also compensate by offsetting the ASA by a couple of stops. If you have another reliable meter, just take a reading, set the camera to that reading, then change the ASA until the meter needle is centered. Use as close to an average gray viewpoint as possible, because the camera's meter is center-weighted, and is also not equally sensitive to all colors.

 

One of the great invisible virtues of the later "Apollo" F's is that the strap lugs are reinforced. Users of old F's often find that their brass lugs have worn right through. Yours never will.

 

Thanks Matthew! Yes I do anticipate the battery issue to be coming in the future. On a whim yesterday I put the two Wein Cells from BH, which had been working perfectly in the Luna Pro, into the Nikon, and found they barely registered needle movement. I didn't try the Nikon's PX13's in the Luna Pro, but I was surprised the Wein's didn't work for the Nikon, perhaps I hadn't read carefully but I'd thought they'd be interchangeable.

I developed the first roll of TX400 from the Nikon yesterday, and though most were acceptably within range, several were under or over exposed, showing I'll have to be more careful both taking readings and actually shooting where the reading had been taken.

Thanks again, can't wait to print them sometime this week!