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Newbie seeks Wedding Camera + Lens Recommendation


lisa_falcone

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<p><blockquote><strong>Moderator Note: </strong>Moved from <strong>Beginner forum</strong> to this forum</blockquote>.<P>

Hello all,<br>

<br />I am a beginner photographer with a keen interest in getting started in wedding photography.<br>

<br />I realize that it is difficult to provide a "one size fits all" recommendation for a camera and I understand it ultimately depends on the style of wedding photography I am looking to achieve.<br>

<br />Without asking too many questions or running through "if this", "then that" scenarios, I am looking for the best general wedding camera and lens recommendations for someone who is looking to take very solid wedding photos. And it cant break the bank too.<br>

<br /> <strong>In short, if you were the author of a feature article in AmericanPhoto and it was titled "The Best 2016 Wedding Camera & Lens for the Economical Buyer", what would it be, and why? </strong><br>

<br />Please try to provide your best recommendation just knowing that 1) I'm a newbie so I really don't know what technical capabilities I need yet 2) have a low/avg budget<br>

<br /> <strong>Thank you so very much in advance for your recommendations! I look forward to hearing from you.</strong><br>

<strong>Lisa</strong></p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Most photographers start out with lower end equipment and gradually build up knowledge and experience with lighting, exposure, technique, processing, etc. And if they're serious about photography they further obtain practical experience and invest in professional lens and advanced lighting equipment. So before contemplating getting into the "wedding business" and buying the absolute "best for the economical buyer" it would behoove you to continue with your school classes and perhaps seek practical experience with the equipment you already own.</p>
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<p>As much as I admire your decision to "get started in wedding photography" I suggest you learn a little more about it before spending any money and setting anyone's expectations.<br>

1. everyone who has a DSLR thinks he/she is a photographer. Wedding photography is one of the most stressful jobs there are, because you cannot ever screw up. Ever. Because it's someone's "most important day of their lives."<br>

2. while owning a camera might make you a photographer, or even a wedding photographer, most of the real skill in being a wedding photographer isn't about photography it's about people, and people management.<br>

3. I suggest you read threads here and on the Wedding Forum on FredMiranda.com to see what's really involved in making money as a wedding photographer. Also read a couple of the horror stories while you're about it. Search for terms like "bridezilla" and "mob from hell."<br>

4. Do you have any idea of the consequences of something going wrong, such that you can't deliver the wedding photos? Do you have a clue of what lengths people will go to pursue, get even, even sue, if you don't deliver. Are you planning to purchase insurance? Do you have a backup camera or flash? What happens if your camera fails before the ceremony starts?<br>

In other words, you don't know what you don't know. Go spend some time learning and exploring before investing your hard-earned cash in a camera. You'll thank me some day.</p>

 

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<p>It's hard to say without knowing what camera and equipment you already own.<br /> There's a lot more to wedding photography than just getting a DSLR and a flash.<br>

<br /> In my opinion you need to find a specialist wedding photography course and learn all there is to know. You could offer to work as a wedding photographers assistant for free so long as it's in an area where you won't be competing for business.<br>

<br /> Of course you'll need some kind of a camera for a course. If you are on a budget I would recommend a Nikon D5500 with a good Nikon dedicated flash and a lens of around 18 - 65mm (equivalent to 28 - 100 focal length on a full frame camera). It's not the perfect camera but pretty good for the money.<br>

<br /> Like I said, you need to do some kind of specialist course and also practice lots of portraits and group portraits away from any weddings to get good at it and steadily improve before you commit yourself to actually doing a wedding.<br>

<br /> If you do actually get into serious wedding photography you will need to initially charge very little and you have to be aware that there is no room for error. You can be sued and it's bests to be insured against that.<br>

You will need a main camera body and a spare camera body (for a spare even a cheapish one with at least 12 megapixel sensor. Make sure at least your main body has two storage slots so that one backs up the other. Check your SD (or CF) cards immediately before the wedding and carry two spare cards. There are different flash techniques but if you are going to be quite mobile use bounce flash with a diffuser over the flash. Get there early and work out where you're going to be taking most of your photos from....and take lots of photos (300+) so you have a good range to choose from!</p>

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<p>Well, I'll answer your question first, then tell you how (I think) you can become excellent at shooting weddings. Just keep in mind that I don't specialise in weddings. I mostly do commercial, live theatre, some live music, portraiture, still life.</p>

<p>In terms of value for money, I'd choose something like a Sony NEX-6000. However, I think that something like a Sony A7s or A7sII (12Mpx, very clean images in very low light) is the best choice. I don't think that 'wedding cameras' need more than about 12-16Mpx. They just don't. Do you really want to enhance every single dermal imperfection in people's faces? I thought not. :-)</p>

<p>The only problem with the A7ses is that they are not cheap. However, they are superior to pretty much every other full-35 sensor camera for that type of application, partly because they have completely electronic, and therefore silent, shutters.</p>

<p>If you're going to adapt old/classic/vintage lenses (all of which are manual), you have so much to choose from. Most of them are cheap but perfect for your application. For example, think of something like a Canon FD 50/1.4. Or a Nikon 105/2.5. Or a Tamron 17/3.5. You'll want a pair of zooms, and lots of manufacturers make pretty good zooms. For example, the Leica 35-70/3.5 is about $500.</p>

<p>Native zooms (and even primes) are arguably better, as your RAW converter will usually have a module that recognises native lenses and then applies corrections (like, for CA, or distortion, or softness).</p>

<p>Researching lenses and other equipment takes time, though, so be patient. You want to check for characteristics like softness, smearing, distortion, bokeh, etc.</p>

<p>As for being a wedding shooter, this is the main thing you need to know: <strong>it will take time</strong>. Try to find people who can't afford a photographer and offer to do their wedding for free, on the condition that they know you're gathering experience, and that they have to accept your results.</p>

<p>Don't waste your time or money on formal study - experience can't be bought or taught. You have to discover and experience this craft. Yes, it will take time. And you'll mess up a lot. But we all did! The first wedding I did was pro bono, but it was mostly a cock-up. The ones after that were great, though.</p>

<p>Feel free to ask questions. If we can help, we will.</p>

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<p>Indeed, weddings can involve legalese and insurance....and one has to be able to handle variety of lighting situations. It would help if you learn this trade by being a "second shooter" for some time (for pay), helping out a primary photographer....and that will give you better overview what's involved. </p>

<p>Another way to start out, if you feel strong about your images, is to hire a couple (models) or recently married, and have them recreate a wedding....so you could put the images on your website.</p>

<p>Most of the time I shoot w/primes (and in manual) and prefer selected lengths like 20, 35, 50, 85 and 105 + FX camera with fairly high ISO's. I'm pretty sure this would work, tho some people will use 24-70/2.8 zoom plus 70-200 (Tamron ?)...and are able to accomplish this, as well. Anyway, I'd choose Nikon or Canon as a system, since they both have high quality cameras/optics....and this makes it more feasible to rent and supplement items/eq that you may not yet have.</p>

<p>Yes, doing weddings requires quite a bit of knowledge and some psychology (humor helps too) to control, what's often an inebriated folk.</p>

<p>Good luck.</p>

<p>Les</p>

<p> </p>

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<p><strong>Thank you all for your generosity of time and for your advice</strong>. Points above area well taken, and I do plan on going through a full training and preparation before committing to doing wedding photography.<br>

<br /> I am looking at the <strong><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-Digital-Focus-S-18-55mm-3-5-5-6G/dp/B00HQ4W1QE/ref=pd_sim_sbs_421_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41f0l9CPtDL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1GYRMVR375VQ67M50MG3">Nikon D3300 camera</a></strong> as a possible beginner-friendly camera. Any thoughts on this camera? know anyone who uses this? how is the quality of the photos it produces? <br>

<br /> I look forward to and appreciate your input.<br /> Lisa</p>

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<blockquote>

<p><strong>"In short, if you were the author of a feature article in AmericanPhoto and it was titled "The Best 2016 Wedding Camera & Lens for the Economical Buyer", what would it be, and why? </strong>"</p>

</blockquote>

<p>> TWO identical mid-priced recent model DSLR APS-C format cameras, either Nikon or Canon (consider buying manufacturer-refurbished) these cameras should feel good in your hands and have simple functionality for you: you'll probably find one brand will simply suit your hand and the menus fit your thinking, more than the other<br /> > ONE 17mm to 50mm F/2.8 (<strong>not</strong> VC) Tamron Zoom Lens (probably buy second hand)<br /> > ONE 85mm F/1.8 Nikon or Canon EF 85F/1.8 Lens<br /> > ONE 35mm F/2 Nikon or Canon Lens EF 35 F/2 (the inexpensive one)</p>

<p>Why:<br /> > You need at least two cameras - simple fact is one might die: if you were experienced and with more capital I'd suggest using a DUAL FORMAT KIT; "identical" because as a beginner having identical cameras will require less thinking, especially if you choose to have two working cameras (as opposed to sitting one in the bag as a "back-up")<br /> > Simplest to have one MAIN WORKING LENS - This is simpler and more flexible if it is zoom lens it needs to be fast (large maximum aperture) the NOT VC version is slightly better optically than the later model VC Version but I think it is now out of manufacture so second hand purchase might be necessary, but those who have one and know the value probably wont sell, if that is so then the newer VC version is still pretty good AND the VC does have its advantages<br /> > a fast 85 on an APS-C allows a good telephoto range and both on Nikon and Canon it is a good value for money lens - fast is necessary both for Shallow DoF and also for use I situations where Flash in prohibited <br /> > the fast (inexpensive) 35 in both Nikon and Canon is also good value for money and this allows closer range, tighter perspective work also without flash when necessary<br /> > the system of thee lenses has redundancy allowing for any one lens to fail, and with skill, one can continue with the other two <br /> > choosing Nikon or Canon allows simplicity and proximity of service, repair, renting and if absolutely necessary borrowing another lens or camera form a guest or friend in an absolute emergency</p>

<p>***</p>

<p>Note that some Nikon lenses are not compatible with some Nikon Bodies and I have not used Nikon for a few years so I have not designated any specific Nikon lens.</p>

<p>Understand the above only answers the question as it was written and does not describe a complete wedding kit; the other expenses involved in establishing a business; nor the skills necessary to use the camera gear or run a business.</p>

<p>WW</p>

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<p>You need TWO cameras, as been said before.</p>

<p>Shooting weddings is professional photography so your equipment needs to be at least reasonable reliable and capable of getting the job done.</p>

<p>D3300 has good enough image quality for wedding photography but it's not really capable enough when it comes to getting the job done. It lacks two command wheels so it's awkward to use in certain modes. It also lacks some settings and features of the bigger models. It also lacks two memory card slots. And it's battery is on the small side requiring you to keep more spares with you. It's autofocus is not good compared to the better models. Viewfinder is not as good as the better models either. And it's not as customizable and can't use the same lenses as the more advanced models.</p>

<p>I think the D7xxx series is the way to go with Nikon. I would not want to shot with anything less than that. If budget is low you get a used or refurbished one. D7200 is the latest model and the best but an older D7100 or even D7000 would get the job done just fine.</p>

<p>As for lenses you need f2.8 and there are good ones around. I'd select the Sigma 17-50mm f2.8 OS if I was buying new. For buying used any of the 17-50mm f2.8 would be a decent lens. This will be your most used lens. You need a longer lens as well as you second most used lens. A used Sigma 50-150mm f2.8 would be a decent budget option and it's small as well. A prime lens like the Nikon 85mm f1.8G would be another choice but sometimes having a prime lens and not a zoom can be a big drawback. A lot of people like the 70-200 f2.8 zooms. They are big and expensive but good.</p>

<p>Higher budget cameras would be full frame models like the D750 or D810. But they also requires more expensive lenses.</p>

<p>You also need to budget for a hot shoe flash like the Nikon SB700 or an older SB600 or SB800. I suggest going with Nikon and not third party brands when it comes to flash.</p>

 

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<p>Might I also suggest you start shooting portraits before getting into weddings. While have two cameras is essential for weddings (since you can't do it again), portraits is a little more forgiving at the low budget level. If you have a major problem you can usually reschedule. And the pressure and stress is not as high.</p>

<p>So you can get your feet wet with less equipment (if your not shooting in a studio) and less pressure.</p>

<p>Your portrait shooting skills will also come very handy when you start doing wedding work.</p>

 

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<p>The best camera and lense for 2016 is the one you can afford. I will use myself as an example, I have been a full-time Pro for over 18 years so you would think I have the best equipment but really I have the best equipment that I can afford. I would like the 1DX but my 5D MK 111 is what I can afford and it gets the job done. before that I had the 5D Mk 11, 1Ds, 20D and the 10D. Each camera on down the line took the same pictures and got the job done. As the old saying goes, "It's not the camera but the photographer". There are really 2 categories in 35mm FULL FRAME AND CROP SENSOR. That should be your first consideration as to what you can afford. Once you pick what side your on all the cameras in those categories are really the same except for some features. The same goes for lenses, There are FAST PRO LENSES AND NON PRO SLOW LENSES.<br /> A beginner photographer should learn the basics of photography. Any camera that allows manual and priority settings will do. It is too easy to get caught up in whats the best or what features one needs. I have sat for hours and even days pondering these thoughts. What I have learned over the years is that you will evolve as a photographer and what you think you need or like today will change tomorrow. Don't waste time splitting hairs. Just practice taking pictures and knowing the ins and outs of the camera (any DSLR) When the light bulb turns on in your head and you understand photography as second nature you won't have to ask these questions, You will know. Its like fishing, once you learn you don't have to ask which rod or bait works best. In the meantime, seek out pros and assist them and get some on the job experience second shooting and practice, practice, practice. If you skip these steps and try to rush things you risk ruining your reputation as being a good photographer. There is more to it than getting an exposed image on the back of your display.</p>
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The first rule of wedding photography is - the bride is always closest to the camera. Having a top notch camera won't teach you that. You can have sharp and clear photos but the bride (and more importantly) the mother of the bride won't be happy if the bride is not in the forefront, the star. This is her day, the groom is just there for background. You first have to learn how to shoot a wedding. It is not just about taking pictures.
James G. Dainis
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<p>While I don't agree with James First Rule...I do agree that you must make the bride look her best. Learn to take pictures first before jumping into any photographic career choice. The Camera choice is not important at your stage of learning. Just get a camera and start shooting and get to know the camera settings and framing. Let you creative side take over and see where that leads you. You got good advice here from everyone.</p>
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<blockquote>

<p>The first rule of wedding photography is - the bride is always closest to the camera.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>This is a bit off topic, but I captured the attached image during a 2004 wedding. About a year later, I showed a print of that image (or a similar image, definitely from that wedding) in a portrait photography class. The instructor is a fairly well known portrait photographer. She immediately pointed out that the bride should not be partly covered up.</p>

<p>I certainly would expect that some may disagree with such a rule, but to some it does exist.</p>

<p>Concerning the OP's question, I would highly recommend getting a camera with dual memory cards slots for wedding photography (or any important photography with no second chances) so that you can write each image file onto both cards. And you definitely need a backup camera.</p><div>00dfc8-560078684.jpg.3d9b6a876991cdcf8a9701a1b84b6b59.jpg</div>

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<p>Hi Shun, Being closest to the camera and being partially covered up are two different statements. As to answer your point of bride being partially covered up, I have known a few brides that preferred to be partially covered up as to hide some extra dress if you know what I mean. I don't hold tight to rules but I do what I can to make any of my subjects look their best. </p>
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<p>Hi, Don't bother spending money on any courses, there are enough videos available on You Tube and the like that can teach you all you want. Watch a few of these and your question will be answered for you. Canon 5d Mk 11 is a good starter camera and can be picked up quite cheaply.</p>
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<p>LOL. First things first. <em><strong>NO</strong></em> course, or book, or videos (LMFAO!!!), or inspired words, or 'rules', or spending the night at a Holiday Inn Express (even if it has a youtube channel!), is going to teach you how to be a successful wedding photog. To<em> learn</em> how to do it, you have to actually<em> do</em> it. Many of the above resources maybe teach you certain things about it, but nothing but experience will successfully teach you how to do it.</p>

<p>Traditionally this has been done by 'seconding'. ie. you first learn all the basic skills in regards to photgraphy, then work with an experienced pro to actually shoot a bunch of weddings where, even if you totally screw the pooch, you haven't really hurt the final product significantly. From there you start to take on clients of your own, develop a style of your own, and hopefully convince people to give you piles of money for you to show up on their wedding day point things at them and push buttons....</p>

<p>...which is why you don't have to be a great photographer to be a successful wedding photographer. Being a great business person is far more important than being a great photographer. As long as you are a passable photog, you can be a successful wedding photog. </p>

<p>2nd. There is no best camera. ...not that you can afford. And you don't need the best, you simply need one (or more specifically TWO - because one can't predict a camera failure- as WW points out) that WORKS. An inexpensive used rebel or Nikon Dxxxx will work fine for now. The less you spend on them, the wider range of lenses and flashes (also a critical component) you can afford. If they've been built in the last few yrs, they'll be more capable than Top-of-the-line pro cameras of a few generations prior - you know, the ones whose imagery graced billboards, and magazines and books. Everybody always gets in a tizzy over the camera, but that's pure idiocy. I could take any DSLR that's come to market in the last decade and shoot stunningly good wedding pictures. Anybody who can't shouldn't call themselves a wedding photog. </p>

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  • 4 months later...
<p>I beleive you could shoot a wedding as a newbie with any 20 mp body with a stabilized 70-200 2.8 and 50mm 1.4 as a minimal set up. Borrow or rent a compatable back up camera. If you decide that you dont like weddings you will always need those 2 lenses. If you decide you want to continue to make a living out of wedding photgraphy, you will have to invest in a full frame camera, ultra wide angle zoom, a macro lens, a 24-70 2.8, and a off camera lighting setup.</p>
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<blockquote>

<p>I beleive you <strong>could shoot a wedding as a newbie with any 20 mp body with a stabilized 70-200 2.8 and 50mm 1.4</strong> as a minimal set up. Borrow or rent a compatable back up camera. If you decide that you dont like weddings you will always need those 2 lenses. <strong>If you decide you want to continue to make a living out of wedding photgraphy, you will have to invest in a full frame camera</strong>, ultra wide angle zoom, a macro lens, a 24-70 2.8, and a off camera lighting setup.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Those two comments as written and linked in the same paragraph, imply that any newbie can shoot a wedding with any 20mp <strong>APS-C Format Body</strong> and a 70 to 200mm and 50mm lens.</p>

<p>That kit comprises only telephoto lenses: which I think would be very limiting and frankly, quite dangerous. </p>

<p>Maybe that was not what you meant?</p>

<p>WW</p>

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