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New Nikon Body or New Nikon Lens???????


nate_mertz

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well, my current gear includes a nikon fe with a series e 50 1.8 and a

series e 70-210 f4 i have a gitzo tripod and a kirk bh3. i am trying

to decide on whether to get an f100 or a 80-200 2.8. by the way im

only 15 so i cant get both for a very long time. reason for

upgrading: its hard to use an f4 lens and focus manualy. f100 solves

the problem with a brighter screen and 80-200 solves it with 2.8

aperature. ive tried the n80 but it doesnt feel right and i just plain

dont like it. please help make this decision easier on me.

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If you are happy and getting good results from your FE then get the lens. The F100 is a fine camera but only if you need it's extra features. It's also been out a while and with all the new digital SLR bodies coming out soon it will most likely only get cheaper. If you feel limited by the FE and need more of what the F100 offers over the FE then it's the F100. Otherwise get then lens. Awesome lens BTW.
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Hi Nate,<P>

 

I agree that you should get the lens. If you want a new lens. But if you only want to fix your problem, there's a better way - much cheaper, too.

 

Your FE has the capability to interchange focusing screens. The screen that's in there right now, I'd bet, is the Type K screen. This is the screen that was put in the body in the factory. Type K screens have a matte fresnel circle in the middle inside of which is a split image range finder field. <P>

 

These screens work great for focusing - until you put a longer lens on, such as your zoom. Anything longer than maybe 135mm causes one or both of the split image halves to black out - unless your eye is precisely centered in the middle of the viewfinder - and keeping your eye in that position is essentially impossible.<P>

 

Consequently, many Nikon shooters - those with manual focus anyway - change out the screen before they do anything else. The type B is essentially the same screen but without the problematic (for long lenses) split image. The type D is just an overall matte with no circles (this is the one I have in my FE - and I love it). And there are a number of other screen available, as well. (I named these from memory, so you might want to double check that the names correspond with the typers described.) With the type D screen in the FE, you have to add one third stop on the compensation dial. good shooting! <P>

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Good thinking, the F100 will very likely drop in price in the used market after a few years.

 

The 80-200/2.8 is a great lens, just remember to get the version with a tripod collar (the cheaper one, not the AF-S). This is a lens that is likely to give you lots of joy, both when shooting and when looking at the resulting pictures!

 

There are/used to be also 3rd party focusing screens for the FE (Beattie?) which are brighter and may have a shorter delivery time.

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I think you got some excellent advise here. Get a new focusing screen.

 

But don't get anything else! You don't need it.

 

Please consider, that people routinely focus with lenses which

are f/4 or slower. A 600mm lens is f/4 typically, or slower. And it is so expensive a lens! In larger formats, e.g in Fuji 680, a fast lens is 100mm f/4 or 135mm f/3.2. A really fast lens in 4x5 format is 90mm f/4.5!

 

If you are only 15 years old eyes, you should have no problem just with a new screen. I think of Kirk-BH3 as a luxury for a 15 year old. Just enjoy the photography! If you have money, spend it on film and more film!

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i think thats some great advice. i hope that you dont mean that just because im 15 i dont need things like the bh-3 and a gitzo, im still a photographer and i still have a thing for high quality. i have even sold images and have had a job as a photographer. my mom was showing off some of my slides to her co workers and one of them asked if i could take some informal portraits for her kids, thats what made me buy the 70-210

again i thank you for your advice.

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Just to get it straight (this time I looked it up): the K screen is the one in your camera, as I mentioned. The Type B is a matte fresnel with a fine-ground focusing spot, but no split image to darken. The Type E is the Type B with horizontal and vertical grid lines added (which, as you likely know, is advantageous for composition and especially so for landscape/architectural work). <P>

 

FE screens also fit the FM2 (Model I). The FM2 (Model II) is the same camera but with an aluminium shutter in place of the titanium shuuter of the Model I. The Model II takes the same focusing screen as the FE2. These screens are of the same type, and with almost the same designation, as those for the FE and FM2 (Model I); except that they have the numeral "2" in their name, to indicate a new generation. Thus: K2, B2, E2. These latter screens are brighter (by one-third stop on average) than their predecessors. <P>

 

It's actually the brighter B2, meant for the FE2 and FM2 (Model II), that I have on my FE - with a 1/3 stop compensation dialed in. In addition to being brighter, these newer screens are more readily available simply because they are newer. The next time I add a screen, though, I'll do as Ilkka suggested and go for one of the Beattie screens, which are immediately available and likely a great deal brighter in the bargain. <P>

 

Anyway, who did you order your screen from? If I were you I'd cancel that order and get a beattie from someone who has them in stock. Also, I agree with Lakhinder that the best bet for cash outlay is, in general, film and processing.

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i wish i could get the e screen, thats the one i ordered. about the 1/3 stop diff, how do id do that? as far as i know i can only set exposure compensatin for half stops, and with slide fim even a small diff can severly over/under expose my images. also i may sound naieve but what is a beatie screen ive been wondering for a long time
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It might be half stops, Nate - I don't have my FE with me right now and haven't used it for quite some time. If you can't set the compensation for one third, set it for one half. The difference between the two is slight enough with print film that it doesn't matter. With slide film, you may wish to compensate manually.<P>

 

<a href=http://www.intenscreen.com/>Beattie</a> is a brand name. They make focusing screens for many different brands of camera. Here is the page at B&H photo that shows the <a href=http://www03.bhphotovideo.com/default.sph/FrameWork.class?FNC=ProductActivator__Aproductlist_html___4366___BEFSGNFE2___REG___CatID=290___SID=F0CF83D0370>Beattie matte-with-grid screen</a> for your FE.

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Well, according to their website (and to what people tell me), their screens are significantly brighter than those that are put into cameras at the factory. There are certain common buzz-brands that you hear spoken of in photographic circles. Beattie, like Gitzo and Kirk, is one of them. (But as I say, I haven't used one. If you do buy a Beattie screen, I'd be interested to hear what you think of it.)
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True the Beattie screens are brighter, but they seem to have less "bite" for manual focusing. I can't exactly elaborate in words what I mean here but do yourself a favour and really try one out before you spend money on one.

 

Its the same feeling I get when manual focusing on modern AF bodies.

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The "less bite" you refer to could be on account of the fact that Nikon's screens are made of glass, while the Beattie screens are made of polycarbonate. It <I>is</I> a very good idea to try one first. I should have suggested it. (By the way, Nate, B&H sells Nikon brand screens, as well.)<P>

 

Why haven't I used my FE? Because I mostly use my FE2 and FM2 now. Also, I have this pre-AI Nippon Kogaku 50mm/1.4, and I've been using a Nikkormat EL for that. Too many cameras, not enough eyes!

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