Need Flash Help - Get Rid of SB-700 or SB-800

<p>I currently have a few Speedlights: SB-700, SB-800 and SB-28.</p>

<p>I don't really use flash very often, but I just bought a Nikon SB-400 for convenience. I figure I have three full size Speedlights, so I should diversify. The SB-400 will be useful in situations where small size is convenient. I see my current line-up as follows, but in no particular order: (1) SB-800 has good power and good endurance with the extra fifth battery carrier; (2) SB-700 has a nice interface and a good balance of size/power; (3) SB-28 is good for manual work with good power to size ratio. </p>

<p>By the way, I might be completely wrong in the way I characterize the flashes above (these are just my general impressions). </p>

<p>I cannot decide. Seems like I should get rid of the SB-700. Other than the interface, is SB-700 superior in any way? SB-800 has the nice benefit of compatibility with film, although I don't use the film/flash combo often. Looking the other way, does SB-700 really have any major sacrifices relative to SB-800? I can live without TTL on film (or use SB-28). I am pretty sure I don't need high power from my flash. <br /><br />I would love to get some comments on SB-700 vs SB-800 to help me here. Thanks!</p>

<p>No way I'd get rid of my SB-800. It's the last bit of Nikon gear I'd sell, because it's so versatile and useful with other camera/ flash combinations. It would cost more to replace it with something else that would be less versatile or only marginally better.</p>

<p>In SU-4 optical trigger mode, it's a great supplemental flash. It even works with non-Nikon TTL flash because at 1/2 or less output it can recycle quickly enough to recover from a pre-flash and be ready to supplement the followup main flash. Only at full 1/1 output does the SB-800 take too long to recycle to be ready after the pre-flash. As long as there are no other flash sources around it works great (even the spark from a nearby cigarette lighter can trigger an optical flash trigger like the SB-800 in SU-4 mode). (It may also be fooled by non-Nikon camera TTL flash in red-eye reduction mode, so disable those when using SU-4 mode optical trigger flash.)</p>

<p>In non-TTL auto mode it's the best of that type I've ever used - better than any of my older Vivitar, Canon and other brand auto-thyristor flashes. Works great with every digital and film camera I've tried. And in really tricky situations it can output less than the minimum possible 1/128th in full manual mode. I've yet to find a situation it can't handle - even a darkened room with only candlelight. As long as the optical sensor can see the subject in the flash it works great - just be careful not to block it with a hand in off-camera flash, or large modifiers such as soft boxes, etc.</p>

<p>If I need off-camera flash and SU-4 mode isn't practical - such as in public places or parties/events where other photographers are using flash - I'll use either the SC-29 curly cord or Pocket Wizards with the SB-800, either in manual or non-TTL auto mode. The old Pocket Wizards are lightweight but bulky so I tape or Velcro the receiver to the flash or the accessory shoe flash stand. I also like the audible recycle tone to let me know when it's ready to go again for off camera use.</p>

<p>I've probably used the SB-800 as often on my non-Nikon cameras as on my Nikon dSLR: Ricoh and Fuji digicam hotshoes; Nikon V1 off-camera in SU-4 optical trigger mode; Nikon FM2N and F3HP film cameras; Yashica and Agfa Isolette folders with simply sync cords; Olympus and Ricoh 35mm film rangefinders. The SB-800 flash is larger and heavier than some of those cameras, but still occasionally useful, especially off camera with the SC-29 curly cord.</p>

<p>And if I had both the SB-700 and SB-800 but wanted to keep only one, it would probably be the SB-700 for the better interface. I'm accustomed to the SB-800 but it's a PITA. It requires an unusually hard and long press of the center button on the paddle controller to get to the option menus.</p>

<p>The SB-700 is a stop less powerful than the SB-800. You can always cut the power of the SB-800 down, but you can't squeeze more power out of the SB-700.</p>

<p>Another vote for keeping the SB-800.</p>

<p>If you shoot through or with an umbrella or other modifier, the SB-700 doesn't have quite enough power. If you mostly are traveling and trying to keep things simple, SB-700 stays.</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p>

Never get rid of a flash. To start you'll only get

pennies on the dollar. Second many setups

can take three or four flashes. Finally you

should always have backup for everything

flashes included.

<p>I really like both the SB-800 and SB-700. If possible, I would keep both. In particular, Nikon discontinued the SB-800 back in 2008/2009, after the introduction of the SB-900. Any SB-800 has to be over 6 years old today. I don't think it is a good idea to have that as your only reliable flash for digital.</p>

<p>If anything, I think your SB-28 is the least useful one, since it is film only. But I can't imagine that you'll get much money from selling it.</p>

<p>I have eight of the Nikon 28 and use them with CyberSync radio triggers. They are very popular for this because they are reliable and have plenty of power. They run somewhere around $75 on ebay, ranging from $50 to 100 depending on condition. The SB-400 sells for around $100--120 used. Myself, I would dump the SB-400 since it's the least flexible of the flash and has the least power.</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p>

<p>Sell both SB700 and SB800, and get a brand new Yongnuo YN568EX - the power of the SB800 without its age (which is a concern, in my view), relatively simple UI (not as nice as the SB700, but certainly not complex) and the same level of compatibility with digital (except being a CLS master). At half the price of a SB700.</p>

<p>Seriously, for me, it would be the age of the SB800 that would worry me most and pull me towards a SB700. But as others said, even if you do not use the power, it's better to have it than not. I like my SB700, but ever since I bought the Yongnuo's, I can't help thinking it is pretty mediocre value for money. So...... what I'd do.<br />I wouldn't sell anything. You're not going to get back big money for any of them, and they do not occupy acres of space. Better to keep them around.</p>

<p>Thanks everybody! Craig and Wouter - you are right on, and my instinct tells me to keep them all. Ultimately, I think I'll sell the SB-700. I bought it used and I will have no problem getting the same amount for it. I think concerns about age are valid, but who knows right? The SB-28 for example, is working perfectly and it could be 10-15 years old by now. I am a light flash user so I am comfortable lacking some redundancy. </p>

<p>I am buying the SB-400 later this afternoon - I am excited to try it out.</p>

<p>I do not see how age must be a problem for the SB-800? As long as a flash sees at least quaterly use and/or get cycled as per instructions a couple of <em>decades</em> is no problem. My SB-25 (from the early 90s) still chargers to the second stated in the manual.</p>

<p>Keep in mind that there are still quite a lot of "ancient" Metz 45 CT-1s out there still working like a charm.</p>

<p>Why did you get the SB-700 in the first place? What use did you intend for it to fill that it has not? Personally, <em>I</em> would not sell the SB-800, but the others <em>I</em> could do without (since I also have two monolights if I really need to light up a scene). If you are not an avid flash user, perhaps there is little weight saved with a smaller SB-400 over the SB-800 (wich can swivel its head upwards even in portrait mode). However, I do not know your exact needs and hope you will be happy with your decision. </p>

<blockquote>

<p>I do not see how age must be a problem for the SB-800?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Nobody said age MUST be a problem, but it can potentially be a problem. I also have an SB-24 that I bought in 1990, i.e. a quarter century ago, and it is still working fine although it is no longer TTL-compatible with DSLRs.</p>

<p>However, any electronics that is older than a few years can degrade to a point that it is less reliable, especially an electronic flash that could have gone through many warm/overheat cycles over the years. Back in 1990 I also bought an F4, and the SB-24 was initially for that body. After about 10 years, in the late 1990's, that F4 gradually developed electronic problems that got worse. Eventually it no longer switches on.</p>

<p>That is why I suggested to the OP that if he can keep both, it is best to have a newer flash in addition to the SB-800. However, now we know that Chip bought the SB-700 used. For flashes, sometimes it is hard to tell how much usage or abuse an old flash has gone through, if you are not the only owner from the beginning.</p>

Andreas - I got the 700 to use for off camera flash but it's not really my thing. Since I bought used, I feel okay thinning the

herd a little.

On a side note, I bought an SB-400 and it is just great. The compact size makes it a great compliment to the SB-800. It's

a little thing but the SS-400 soft case is a great design. The case zips up to perfectly fit the flash in a neat little package.

<p>The SB-800 is a safe bet to keep. My experience has been really good with older flash units. The only Nikon flash that had an unusual number of web forum complaints was the SB-600. The SB-800 has a very good reputation for reliability.</p>

<p>My SB-800 just ticked over a decade of regular use, still works great even though it's been slightly abused. A recent experiment with a homebrewed infrared filter did not go well - the filter melted on the first pop and some of it stuck to the SB-800 lens. Once in awhile I have to use Ronson fluid to clean off the gummy residue from duct tape used to stick homebrewed flash modifiers to the SB-800. Nothing has broken, loosened up, jammed, become glitchy, etc.</p>

<p>About 12 years ago I bought a used 1980s era Nikon SB-10 non-TTL auto flash. Still works great. I use it a lot on my non-Nikon digicams to minimize battery drain from the internal flash. I'd love to find a similarly designed but smaller two-battery flash. The pivoting hotshoe is very versatile.</p>

<p>The only bit of Nikon flash gear that's showing its age is the SC-29 cord. The flex connectors for both modules crumbled - other owners have described the same problem. I just duct taped the curly cords to the modules.</p>

<p>I also have an even older Canon non-TTL auto flash still works great, despite a broken sync socket.</p>

<p>I finally discarded one of my oldest flashes, a Sears branded auto-thyristor purchased in the late 1970s. It was the sole survivor of a 1984 college canoe trip on the Guadalupe that claimed the life of my Ricoh SLR kit. Not only did the flash keep working after drying out, it also survived a weird experience with lithium AA batteries in the 1990s. I was taking lots of fill flash photos on the beach on a hot summer day and after several consecutive uses the flash emitted a loud <em>POP!</em> and a puff of smoke. I figured the capacitor was shot. I put it away and didn't find it again for almost 10 years. But when I tried it again it still worked, and the metered output matched the original specs. I only discarded it because it was so slow to recycle and I needed to clear some space in the closet.</p>