ND filter for Hasselblad Bay 60 lenses?

Been looking around a bit for neutral density filters for my 500cm and the bay 60 lenses I have for it. I'm obviously missing something because I cannot seem to find anything. Somebody have a recommendation for me please? Something that would give me perhaps 4-5 stopsI think would be adequate for longer exposures in daylight, yes?

 

I have yet to even see any Hasselblad brand ND filters, did they ever make any? Any brand will do of course, but curious about native brand ND filters. Or the seeming lack thereof.

 

Thanks in advance.

You might have to go with a larger filter and an adapter, assuming such is available. What kind of photos do you want to take? I recently bought a 6-stop filter but it doesn't get me as slow as I'd like to go in daylight for waterfalls and such. I then bought a 16-stop filter, which is nearly opaque, but I haven't had a chance to use it yet. As the filters get darker expect to use tricks like manual or scale focus and maybe a light meter, as the built-in tools get starved for light.

You will have to look for third party filters.

I use 100 mm square and rectangular (graduated) filters in filter holder (Sinar, no longer sold new). Lee sells filters and holders. Not cheap. There are many made in China also.

Hello

Heliopan 3060, ND0.3 (1 stop) to ND3.0 (10 stop) in B60 160$ to 200$ eaxh

J.Ph.

I've been using 67mm NDs with a B60 - 67mm adapter.

What kind of photos do you want to take?

 

Good question. Honestly, I'm not 100% certain. Not sure I need a full 10 stops. It'd be nice to have some variable capabilities, just to play with it a bit to see what exactly comes out of it. A couple things inspire me, one of them. being the haunting & ethereal City Of Shadows from the 1990s.

 

Alexey Titarenko

 

Not that I'm a landscape photographer at all, but another photographer whom I "know" from The Internet uses ND filters to shoot long(ish) exposure landscapes and I like that look of blurred clouds. Water in motion isn't so much my "thing" although if it's a lake or open water of any sort, that's OK by me.

 

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It occurs to me that there could be some "action" shots that could benefit from some level of blurred motion. Vintage drag races aren't always super fast. I'd probably experiment with ND filters at jalopy & vintage bike drag races (and other motor-head type events). Since that's a big part of what I do anyway, that'd be a good place for me to begin.

 

The first time I ever saw what was no doubt a photo using ND filters, it was a shot of a crowded city intersection. A large red bus was sitting at a light, it was a rainy day and there was a large crowd of people crossing in front of the bus. The bus, the umbrellas, and pretty much everything was in sharp focus and all the legs & feet were blurred. It was brilliant. Then I started seeing Margus' photos from some traveling he and his wife did a few years ago out in the the eastern Stans, and from their travels world wide. I've linked his ride report that covers a lot of territory. The last pages were where I came in, but if you breeze the opening page to see a sampling of his photography, perhaps you may see why I was drawn in.

 

From Estonia with love (Round the World)

 

When I more recently saw City Of Shadows, after having learned a LOT more about photography.... that's when it clicked.

I've been using 67mm NDs with a B60 - 67mm adapter.

 

This alternative works and allows bayonet hood to mount.

Hello

I've been using 67mm NDs with a B60 - 67mm adapter.

best way to use Breakthrough Photography ND filter...

but take care to choose the "right" size of filter...

J.Ph.

I've been using 67mm NDs with a B60 - 67mm adapter.

 

This is the alternate method that I use.

It is especially helpful when it is hard to find the Bay-60 filter that you want, or Hasselblad did not have it.

IME you need something a bit darker than 5 stops to get meaningfully long exposures (say 30 seconds) in daylight.

 

It's also my experience that dark Heliopan filters get really thick (glass thickness), with consequent noticeable vignetting towards the edges and corners. Not worth their premium price IMO. Buy A.N. Other brand.

I bought PowerND filters by Aurora Aperture from B&H. I haven't had time to use them much, but the glass and mounts are very thin and appear to be of high quality. I believe the filters are created by coating, not by bulk ND glass, though you'd have to confirm that. I questioned the range of variable filters, so went with fixed 72 mm filters to fit my Nikkor S series kit lens. That lens will vignette significantly with thick filter mounts.

 

As Joe says, you'll probably want more than 5 stops. My 6-stop filter wasn't enough for the daylight shots I wanted. Start with the ISO you want to use, apply the sunny-16 rule, then work backwards to the shutter and aperture you want. What you really need may surprise you.

 

I don't yet have much experience at this but in general, the slower it moves, the longer you'll need to expose and the denser a filter you'll need. Remember that both film and digital will have some unexpected things happen with very long exposures, reciprocity failure and possible color shifts for film and noise build-up with digital, the latter requiring dark-field shots to be subtracted if the camera doesn't do it automatically.

with digital, the latter requiring dark-field shots to be subtracted if the camera doesn't do it automatically.

Ooooh yes!

I'd forgotten about long-exposure noise reduction. That can get painfully slow with tens of seconds exposure times, since the camera does a dummy dark-frame exposure lasting as long as the proper exposure.

 

I ended up turning LENR off. There's only so much thumb-twiddling I can stand!

 

Then again with film, the added reciprocity (failure) compensation quickly gets tediously long as well. But at least the contrast isn't increased with digital.