My Philly Shots

<p>Thanks for the help, I decided to go filterless. I learned that I need to get a spot meter, since I chose to use the waist-level finder after a quick metering with the PME-3. I ended up with a lot of overexposures as the light level increased and I failed to compensate sufficiently.</p>

<p>Anyway, here are some of the better ones.</p><div></div>

<p>Another.</p><div></div>

<p>#3</p><div></div>

<p>Last one.</p><div></div>

<p>Jay, a spot meter is really only useful when you have the time to use it which is a luxury for street shooting. I have a spot meter as part of my Sekonic L-508 (or is it L-308 I cannot remember) and I rarely use it. I much prefer using incident readings. If I'm on the side of the street that's in shadow I take a reading in the shadow with the film iso set at a box speed. Out in open sun I set the speed at half (one stop overexposure) which will open the shadows a bit. Try using an incident meter and see how you like the results. The contrast in your examples above look OK except the last one. The background could be a bit darker.</p>

<p>Thanks, Mark. I don't shoot street primarily, so the spot meter would benefit me more. Although your point makes sense, so I should probably pick up one that also functions as an incident meter for street use.</p>