My lens saved my D3 - sort of wish it was the opposite -

<p>Darn desk chair arm grabbed the D3 strap - THUD!. It landed squarely on the front of my favorite 28mm/f2 AI converted scalloped metal focusing ring version. Really liked using that lens, great results and great feel. Now, results look like a lens baby. The focusing jams toward the close end. I think that the CRC worked on the front of this lens and is probably what is messed up.</p>

<p>I have 2 other 28/f2's, an AIS and another old beater which should have been on the camera. Darn. Kind of wish the D3 was hurt instead of the old classic. Easier to get parts for and it really needs a CLA anyway.</p>

<p>Do you guys know the best repairer that (hopefully) can make it sharp and good again and won't charge more than the lens is worth?<br>

Maybe I should just get one of the new 28/1.8 AF's</p>

 

<p>I have many classic Nikkor lenses, if it were me I'd get the 28 f/1.8. </p>

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<p>I have 2 other 28/f2's</p>

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<p>lol.</p>

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<p>I have 2 other 28/f2's</p>

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<p>lol.</p>

 

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<p>LOL</p>

<p>Try this:<br /> http://www.kurtscamerarepair.com/<br>

http://www.procamerarepair.com/</p>

<p>The 28/1.8G AFS is very sharp, including the corners. Superb for landscape. My copy at least, and several copies used by review sites, has significant field curvature. Once you get to know its behaviour this is not a problem, but there is a learning curve with it. The focusing 'scale' is so short as to be useless. Build quality cv a metal 28/2 - hmmm.</p>

<p>It's probably going to be cheaper to find an unconverted pre-Ai version of that lens and swap out the aperture rings than to have it repaired. Anything that stiffens up the focus usually means damage to the helicoid(s) which are almost impossible to repair. Still, it wouldn't hurt to have it looked at if you can find a repairer that does free or cheap estimates.</p>

<p>BTW, I think the CRC works on the rear group of this lens, but the focusing barrel separates from the front group of elements to allow this. I'd also check the focusing of your D3 Robert. A knock hard enough to damage a lens may also have put the lensmount out of register.</p>

<p>Thanks, all. I had checked the D3 quickly. At least the center is in exact focus with my 70-200 at 2.8 on the D3.<br>

Will call and maybe send the lens to one of the repairers, but will probably wind up just transferring the AI ring. It was a pretty nice example, not near mint but presentable.<br>

I am sure that the new 28/1.8 is optically quite a bit better. I can use software (have DXO and NX2) to correct distortions with the newer lenses, but I like the way that the 28/2 renders people. Detailed but sort of soft at the same time.</p>

<p>I have both the 28/2 AI and the 28/1.8G. I love the 28/1.8G, but I wouldn't give up the 28/2 AI for any reason. It has a special dramatic character all of its own, and it isn't lacking for sharpness. I like the way it renders midtones. Also, the 28/1.8G isn't as good for manual focusing as the 85/1.8G is, and obviously not nearly as good as the 28/2 AI is.</p>

<p>I think both of the lenses Luke mentions are excellent but I would reverse the order of preference. I have both lenses and prefer the 28/1.8G by a wide margin. It is sharper and delivers better contrast and color. The distortion from this lens is none to minimal virtually out to the margins. It may be that I just have an excellent copy.</p>

<p>Got a nice personal quote back from procamerarepair mentioned above, it may be worth it to repair - at least to me.<br>

Used my 28/2 AIS version today, it is probably better than the older one. I have no doubt that a new 1.8G would have more resolution. Would be interesting to compare the 1.8G to the 28/2 on my favorite subject for the 28mm - people having fun - to see which lens had the more natural looking results.</p>

<p>Hi Owen. I didn't state a preference for the older lens, but rather that I wouldn't give up one for the other. The 28/1.8G has excellent performance, though very little character of its own. The 28/2 AI has a wonderful character, and isn't lacking in sharpness. But manual focusing with the 28/1.8G is sub-optimal. [i do manual focusing most of the time now, to avoid having my compositional choices influenced by the placement of the autofocus points.] </p>