mjferron Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 <p>I mixed like the directions said at the temps the directions said. The whole process was done at 70 degrees F (as the directions said) My times were spot on and that 70 degrees was carefully maintained. Was done in a hand tank. Problem is the greens and yellows are very weak or non existent, and too much color cast as well. Reds and blue skies look better. Any takers?</p><div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjferron Posted December 3, 2010 Author Share Posted December 3, 2010 <p>Digital version of the same scene.</p><div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 <p>What kit is this that uses 70F for processing?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjferron Posted December 3, 2010 Author Share Posted December 3, 2010 <p>From freestyle. directions say 70 degrees for 26 minutes on step one. There are other temps/times listed but my work space was 68 degrees and I figured 70 would be easy to maintain.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjferron Posted December 4, 2010 Author Share Posted December 4, 2010 <p>Hmm I might have screwed the agitation up. Says Agitate vigorously for the first 15 seconds and repeat the agitaion technique once every 30 seconds. Sounds to me they want 15 out of 30 seconds. I just did a few every 30 seconds. Next time it's 105 degrees for 6.5 minutes. 26 minutes is hell. LOL</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelderman_mark Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 <p>1. Did you pre-soak film in water?<br> 2. Did you rinse between first and second chemicals?<br> 3. Did you buy 'new' old stock like off ebay?<br> E-6 is a very tempermental process and can be affected by chemicals in the rinse water, or carry over bewteen steps. While two degrees may be convenient to maintain in your darkroom, it is not the recommended temperature for a process that should generally not vary more than one-half degree. It is a fun, easy process, as long as you follow the recommended time and temps, but beware of buying chemicals off ebay that may say new, but are actually outdated and poorly stored. I have had problems with exhausted reversal baths in some of these kits, but I have not used the one you mention. Good luck and keep trying. That unpredictability factor can make home development a wonderful thing.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 <p>I am wondering that the color shift is from the temp. Let us see the new results.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjferron Posted December 4, 2010 Author Share Posted December 4, 2010 <p>kelderman I never varied 2 degrees. I was in a pan of 70 degree water all the time. Everything was clean and new. See my reply above for possible mistakes.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barry_sanford Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 <p>As for first developer running for 26 minutes at 72 degrees, it may work, but I'd say that a time/temperature reciprocity failure is almost sure to occur.</p> <p>I've done lots of E6 processing at home (did 6 rolls yesterday) and have never had a processing error. E6 process is very time/temperature sensitive. This means not only the temperature of the bath water, but also of the chemicals being used. The Kodak standard is +/- 5 seconds on time, and +/- 0.3 deg (F) on temperature for step 1. At the very least you will need a JOBO CPA-2 or a CPP-2. There are some of these units on eBay all the time. These will each maintain the correct temperature, as well as performing the agitation process in a consistent manner. And although chemical management is still manual with these units, it's greatly improved with the lift arm mechanism. For flawless E6 with more automated chem management, get an ATL-1000 or ATL-1500. The only issue with these models is that you must maintain your own heated water supply to the water input line. I use an ATL-1000 and heat my input water to about 102-deg F to account for heat lost in the supply line. With the ATL series processors, you load the film, load the chemicals, press the button, and come back in about 40 minutes to perfect results. Compared to hand developed E6 an ATL may be "cheating," but unless your chems are bad, you are just about guaranteed perfect results every time.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_shriver Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 <p>I'm amazed you got anything that good at 70° F. The only correct temperature for E-6 is 100.4° F.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrydressler Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 <p>Was there a note in the instructions about possible color shift with lower temperatures? I remember reading a thread about this I believe it was here on PNEt.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjferron Posted December 4, 2010 Author Share Posted December 4, 2010 <p>Not sure larry. Anyway i appreciate all the advice folks. I'll probably look into geting a Jobo processer but I do have my 2nd attempt drying as we speak. I went to 105 degrees and 6.5 minutes. Quick peek shows things to look much more promising.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartMoxham Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 <p>Was it some kind of room temp E6 kit.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjferron Posted December 4, 2010 Author Share Posted December 4, 2010 <p>hey this post was not suppose to make the front page. LOL</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith__richard_terry Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 <p>I have used E6 process from several different manufacturers way back to when it superseded the E4 process.<br> The recommended temperature has always been 38C for the first and colour developers which is way above the 70F you quote.<br> I am very surprised that any manufacturer would quote a colour development time outside the 30C - 42C range.<br> The fault obviously lies with the colour developer, if it is not the low temperature then the solution has either been contaminated or is oxidised.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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