*******MULTIPLE FLASH*********

I currently own a CANON 10D + 550ex Flash with Omni bounce diffuser.

I want to create a multiple flash setup having backlighting,

diffused light and side lighting. Since locally I cannot view nor

buy any flashes, being 100% sure on the below setup is of at most

importance to me. Keep in mind that I am relatively new to strobes

and artificial lighting.

 

I have browsed through various flashes, slaves etc and I was going

to buy the following:

 

? 2 Vivitar 285 flashes to mount onto a Photoflex Umbrella Kit

which Includes: 2 - 45" Umbrellas, 2 - 8' Light Stands & Case +

Multiclamp with Shoe Mount for Umbrella.

 

? SL-2 Remote Flash Trigger which I could use for background

light.

 

 

 

My intentions are to be able to have a relatively low cost light

setup, where I could freeze motion in still life setups, also being

portable to be able to photograph portraits 1-2 persons on location

at ones home.

 

Can I opt for this setup instead of buying another 550ex + ST-E2

Transmitter Kit and Umbrella and Stand accessories? The Vivitar 285

is to be triggered via a burst of light? Is it remote?

 

If the above mentioned setup is fine do I need other accessories to

have a complete setup? Could I buy a soft box instead of an

umbrella? Will the power from the Vivitar using umbrella or soft box

is sufficient for a full length portrait?

 

I know that that wht I mentioned may be relatively complicated.

Kindly, could any one having Vivitar Flashes explain a simple setup?

If the above is not possible what is the best recommendation for my

intentions?

 

 

THX IN ADVANCE

As long as you have slaves or remote triggerng devices like the LPA Pocketwizard you can

use any combination of electronic flash units you like -- in a strictly manual mode.

 

The attached example was made yesterday using Nikon's wireless iTTL system with two

Nikon SB-800 and one SB-600 Speedlights. The SB-800 (used as master, the others were

in remote mode) immediately to camera left was bounced into a white 42" Photek umbrella

and connected to the D70 with two SC-17 cables linked together. The SB-800 to camera

right was bounced off of the ceiling above the area where Matt was working. The SB-600

was further away on the left and was aimed directly at Matt's back for an accent light. What

I like about this system is that I can control each of the remote lights directly from the

control panel of the master flash. this is aboutthe twelth frame from my first real shoot

with this system.

 

I haven't used Canon's system in multi-flash mode but I

am sure it must be similar.<div></div>

Nice shot, Ellis - good explanation too!

 

I use my ABs for just about everything but I also like the small flashguns for portability so

it's nice to see successful results :-)

Your idea sounds good, I do something like that at weddings. I use the peanut slaves on the flash. you set the "fill" flashes to a lower F stop setting than your on camera flash.One problem is is that everyone elses flashes will fire your flashes also. About the Vivitar 283/285, great flash for the $$$,

I used to use Vivitar 283s with mains adaptors and Vivitar slave cells. used some unknown stands with small silver brollies. The setup was adequate for smaller jobs.

While the disadvantage of buying another 550EX and an ST-E2 is the cost, the advantage would be control.<br><br>

I am currently using a pair of 420EX flashes triggered by an ST-E2 and it works quite well. You might also pick up a 420EX to add as a third light. With a Pair of 550s on channel A and the 420 on channel B overhead, you could adjust the ratio from the ST-E2 giving you very nice fill.

<br><br>

Although this is the cheapest way to go, as pointed out above, with this setup your flashes would fire when you wanted them to - not when every one else took a picture. - Just my thoughts.

One thing I've wondered: when using multiple different eTTL flashes (I have a 580ex and a 420ex and am thinking of adding one more), when you use the ratio functions on the flash or on an ST-e2, I wonder if it is just a sliding, uncalibrated scale. That is, does the camera have any knowledge of the power of each flash? Or does it just asking each flash to fire at partial power given the ratio set, and the photographer has to figure out where to set the ratio to look good?

 

Put another way: a ratio of 1:1 for a 580ex and a 420ex isn't actually going to *look* like 1:1 on the photo, even if the flashes were both the same distance from the subject.

 

Do I have that right?

 

I don't want to assume that the ratio setting is a true photographic ratio when it isn't.

 

John

John - as the ST-E2 is simply an infrared trigger, I'm assuming you are correct. The only "control" once it is fired is if you are using the TTL vs manual, but I don't think it could possible "know" what flash you are using. (I could be wrong, but it makes more sense that I would be right.)

John,

The E-TTL system has a 2-step exposure method. Once you press the trigger, each flash (or flash group) sends a small burst of light. These individual bursts are read by the Evaluative system of the camera and the right power is communicated back to each flash (group). <br>So to answer your question in short: Yes, a 1:1 ratio will be a 'photographic' 1:1 ratio provided that the flashes are not maxed out in exposure. (it's obvious that if you combine a 420 with a 580, there will be a point (f/stop or distance) where the 580 still has power to expose the subject while the 420 is beyond its limit). If you use FEL (flash exposure lock) with your ST-E2 or your master flash in a multi-flash setup, the bolt icon will blink if one of the flashes is not providing enough light to the subject. That can be tricky sometimes but the wireless E-TTL flexibility still has its limitations.<br><br>-regards, Gerard.