Moderate wide angle lenses for Nikon D810

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by ray ., Nov 9, 2017.

  1. Yep, the lens sure is large and heavy. If, however, it replaces the three primes you mention, weight and bulk in your bag will be reduced:)
    But it sure will make your camera/lens combo feel weighty;)

    Same here. Good for close-up work, not particularly good at infinity.
  2. As I recently said in another thread, it depends how you like to think about it. I still have a couple of Eos film bodies and a 300D, so I've had some experience with the top dial, and always thought the Nikon way made more sense.

    My belief is that there is a philosophical difference about where your index finger should live. Canon believe you should use your index finger for changing settings; the dial on the top is the best position for doing that, but it means that your index finger isn't on the shutter release while you're doing so (although your middle finger may be). Nikon believe your index finger should (mostly) stay on the shutter release; the dial under the shutter release is, at least the way I use the camera, moved by the middle finger. This gives me a bit less precision in dial turning, but not enough to put me off, and I can be ready to shoot with no need to move a finger; others have been surprised that I do this, and evidently turn the front dial with their index fingers (which to me negates the benefit of the dial position, but I'm not going to argue if it works for them).

    The same is possibly true of the rear dial. Nikon position it where your thumb lies while you're gripping your camera to take a shot - you can hold the camera quite stably while still turning the rear dial. The trade-off is that the dial is quite small, and positioned at the top of the grip, so you need a second one on a portrait grip (ideally). Canon are happy for you to move your hand position more, so the circular dial is farther from the natural camera grip position (far enough that you can reach it on some bodies from either portrait or landscape configuration equally well); it's also larger and, because it allows continuous rotation, you can make some changes somewhat faster with the Canon design (although as someone not used to it - none of my Eos bodies have it - it does make me feel like I'm dislocating my thumb a bit). So for the rear dial, Canon's approach lets you make changes faster, Nikon's approach is slower but doesn't interrupt your shooting as much while you're doing it.

    At least, that's my attempt to interpret the ergonomics. Neither is "better", they just have slightly different philosophies - and the differences are practically minor, otherwise one or other system would have had to change by now. (For example, you can move the Nikon dials quite a long way by rolling the side of your digit along them, so the continuous Canon dial doesn't have that much of a benefit; recent SLR bodies have enough of a grip both for fingers and in the palm that moving the thumb down the back of the body doesn't significantly affect their use.) I normally tell people to go and try both and see which approach feels more natural.

    On the other hand, when I complain about Nikon's positioning of buttons where I can't reach them with my right hand, that's an absolute factual statement; I'm right, and their ergonomic designers are wrong. :)

    So... I'm a little surprised you preferred the feel of the D810 to your Canon alternatives if you prefer the Canon dial arrangement, but it doesn't take that long to get used to the other design philosophy. I hope you enjoy it, regardless. Things have moved on a bit since the D70!
  3. ShunCheung

    ShunCheung Moderator

    For a modern, high-pixel-count DSLR such as the the D810, I would use a modern lens introduced in the last few years.

    The Sigma 35mm/f1.4 Art has already been mentioned. I recently used it on the D850, and it is still great, but it is heavy. If the OP prefers something lighter, I would consider one of the Nikon f1.8 AF-S options.
  4. There is the 28mm f/1.8 ED as well.

    35/1.8 DX produces very dark (black) corners on full frame at infinity. It is not intended for FX.
  5. [​IMG]D700 35DX f/1.8 uncorrected
    [​IMG]D700 35DX f/1.8 corrected ACR
    [​IMG]D700 35DX f/1.8 corrected ACR +100manual
    Whether or not you are happy with the sharpness in the corners depends on how high or low you set the bar; stopped down to f/5.6 it doesn't do all that poorly (still requires vignetting correction).

    Said to suffer from focus shift and field curvature.

    Some more options (not Nikkors though):
    Tamron 35/1.8 VC (yes, it does have image stabilization): TamronSP 35mm f/1.8 Di VC USD Lens for Nikon F
    Don't know how bad or good the Yongnuo 35/2 lens is - but it is cheap: YongnuoYN 35mm f/2 Lens for Nikon F
  6. I guess it is personal preference.
    I have always used a 24/2.8 on my film cameras. At the time, the widest lens that still used a 52mm filter.
    If you want something a bit less wide I would go with a 28. I feel the 35 is not wide enough, if you have a 50.
  7. I've said this before, but I think it bears repeating.
    "If you want a great f/2 lens, then buy a good f/1.4 lens"

    I haven't yet met an f/1.4 lens that performs more than adequately wide open, but stop them down to f/2 and they shine. Most of them outperform lenses whose maximum aperture is f/2 at like-for-like stops.

    So while you might not absolutely need the f/1.4 aperture, it shows that some extra care has gone into the design and build of the lens..... and an extra stop is always handy.

    "Ah, I see now there is an f/2 Nikkor AF."

    - That AF-D lens is even worse than the old 8 element Ai/Ai-S design from the 1970s Ray.
  8. D810 corrects for focus shift automatically if you use AF, and in live view you can choose the aperture at which you focus. Photozone says their copy of the 28/1.8 did not exhibit focus shift. Perhaps you could show links of those pics illustrating focus shift so we can discuss their credibility and method used to test.
  9. I use the Zeiss 25mm f2 lens on my D800 and film cameras. Good wide open and CA is well controlled. An alternative I us is the Nikkor 35mm f1.4 ais that is good stopped down but soft wide open.
  10. Lloyd Chambers reports it. Nasim Mansurov ( reports it. And here are pictures: Focus Shift with Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28mm f/1.8G

    How does it do that?
  11. Using a lookup table of known lenses, I suspect.
  12. Just did some brief search, allegedly a firmware update on the D810 and also a feature in the D5 and D500. Nikon appears to be totally silent on the issue - great service to the customer. Likely they don't want to admit that some lenses do have focus shift issues.
    And apparently modifying the AF fine tune parameters depending on aperture. So don't AF at one, switch to MF and then change the aperture;)
  13. A side note- I hadn't known Nikon was having financial issues. Is their survival as a company or camera maker an open question? Perhaps the DSLR is going the way of the dinosaur.
    One thing about the Sony cameras and others I suppose that I couldn't opt for is not having an optical finder option. Apparently buttons are mushy and/or easy to inadvertently change on the A7r ii- another deal breaker.

    Watched a tutorial on the D810 last night- Seemingly has a web of controls to go through which in certain instances could be simpler or more accessible. I'm sure getting the hang just takes a little time, and I'd probably not use a good 3/4 of the options. Single point autofocus for the most part, hold the shutter button down, recompose if necessary, and shoot.
  14. Nikon had a bad 2016 (losses mainly due to semiconductor lithography business but they also had difficulties with cameras: sales were affected by the lack of availability of sensors after the Kumamoto earthquake and they also cancelled the DL series and produced a flawed Keymission) but now they are again making a healthy profit and their stock price is at its highest value since 2013. D850 waiting lines remain long suggesting high demand.

    If you look at the past ten years of any major camera manufacturer, you’ll find some years of making a loss as the dedicated camera market has collapsed (mainly the point and shoots). This isn’t specific to Nikon. Personally I have no intention of buying any electronic viewfinder product in the foreseeable future so for me they are doing the right thing by developing DSLR technology. However it is obvious that they are also working on new mirrorless camera system(s).
  15. "And here are pictures:Focus Shift with Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28mm f/1.8G"

    - Does the author of that article not understand that depth-of-field increases more behind the plane of focus than in front? So of course there is asymmetry in the DoF with stopping down.

    I'd be much more concerned about the obvious LoCA, as shown by the green and purple fringes that refuse to go away by f/5.6.

    And incidentally, those green and purple fringes disappear (or change colour) at the zero plane of the focus indicator. Exactly as you'd expect. With focus shift, the colour swap-over plane would move with any change of focus on stopping down.

    However, focus shift is a very real issue with many f/1.4 lenses, but looking for it where it doesn't exist isn't helpful though.
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2017
  16. I'll second the weighty Sigma 24-35mm f2. Fully usable wide open.

    I'm a bit lazy and just leave it on f4 @ 1/125 with Auto ISO unless I want a specific shallow or deep DoF.

    It's not a huge zoom range, but does cover 3 in the usual prime sequence, as mentioned before.

    Negligible fringing on normal contrast subjects. AutoCorrect does away with the pretty bad vignetting.

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