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Minox C


hjoseph7

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I bought this Minox C several years ago, but because of time constraints(school) and other interest, I haven't had

much time to use it much. I bought a couple of rolls of Color and B&W film ASA 400, but only got a chance to shoot

one roll which I developed in a JOBO tank. The results were not outstanding. Now that I have more free time, I would

like to experience what a Minox is all about. First of all I noticed that the little exposure light does not light up. Since

I bought it used, I don't know what else might be wrong with it. I was thinking about sending it in to get refurbished,

but I forgot the name of the company(USA) that does these types of repairs.<div>00QERu-58591684.jpg.b07d55699125aa0f4102e9b90b36c52c.jpg</div>

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Send it, if you must, to DAG camera repair. This is the first place to check for repairs at dagcamera.com. You might just need to order a new battery. Check if the battery compartment is corroded since this a problem area. Others here will also have good places to check for repairs. Good luck! Hope you get it working again, they do work well with the right film and operating parameters.
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Harry,if you in the UK,try to send it to Andrew Britton of MS Hobbies.I am personally very satisfied with the work he has done on my cameras in the past.You may need to google his contact details,or just contact him via MS Hobbies.

 

DAG Cameras does a great job on Minox as well,but if you in the UK,Mr.Britton could save you precious time(and postal fee:-)).

 

Good luck !

 

JT

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Harry,

 

Um, if I understand you correctly, you mean the shutter button doesn't light up? The button itself doesn't light up ever, the little white (or red) light next to it does when you rotate the lever between the shutter speed dial and film speed dial ONLY when the shutter dial is set to "A" and your shutter speed would be less than 1/30 second.

 

Does that help?

 

--Micah in NC

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The very first thing to check is the battery compartment, if theres corrosion you have problems, as this will have started creeping inside the camera electronics, the C onwards use electronically controlled shutters, (one reason I much prefer the A and B series).

If it's clean, (never ever store anything electronic with the battery, get used ton removing it if you even suspect you might leave in the cupboard for any length of time), get a new battery or Minox adapter tube and 4 (LR44?) button batteries, if the lights still don't work all may not be lost, check the shutter, point it at a bright light in A mode, high ISO rating, it should flick open and closed too quickly to see, then cover the photocell window at the front and do the same, it should flick open and hold for a few seconds before the second shutter blade closes.#

This at least would indicate it's doing the right thing, the LED's can fail and presumably are too costly or problematic to replace as many 'specialists' sell them with non working LED's.

If the shutter misbehaves then a service or CLA is required, if the terminals are furry likewise.

 

Additionally if you explain in further detail what your images look like possibly scan and post a couple then some of the Minoxers here may be able to further diagnose your minox malady

 

Cheers,

 

Mike

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"The very first thing to check is the battery compartment, if theres corrosion you have problems"

 

Thanks for reminding me. I think the battery is still in there. I have to check when I get home. Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it. As far as the A and B series what type of exposure control system do they come with ?

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Harry,

 

With the Minox A and B, YOU are the exposure control. I mean both cameras have manual exposure only. The

exposure is controlled the user manually selecting a shutter speed. (As you probably know, the aperture is a

constant f/3.5.)

 

The A (a.k.a. III and IIIS) does not have a built-in meter. The Minox B has a built-in, batteryless selenium meter.

 

With the B, you simply take a light reading with the meter (press meter button, point camera at subject, release

button to lock meter reading), then set the shutter speed. The shutter dial turns a pointer at the exposure meter,

which you turn to meet or match the light meter needle (a.k.a “match-needle” exposure system). It's that easy. Gee,

I sound like a Minox advertisement, don't I?

 

The C does make picturetaking faster because you don't have to fuss with exposure, but you can't take pictures

when the battery fails due to the electronically-powered shutter. That's why Mike S. prefers the mechanical shutters

of the A and B series.

 

--Micah in NC

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Mike and Micah, I took a look at the battery chamber of my Minox C and everything looks A-OK, no corosion whatsoever. I also popped a new battery in there a 6V S27PX . You can still use Manual Exposure with this camera if the Automatic exposure doesn't work. Unfortunately it looks like the shutter is not working at all ! When I press the shutter button the shutter does not move it stays closed no matter what I do. What a bummer.
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You can use manual exposure over the A setting of the C but it is limited overall to the A and B series.

However the important hting is that the shutter is still electronically controlled so if theres no power or a feed problem you cannot use the camera regardless of where it's set as the elctronic innards tell the curtains how and when to fire rather than the clockwork mechanism found in earlier models.

Unless you are adept at tiny circuitry i wouldn't touch the innards myself.

With a new battery in pushing the lever (forward or back I don't recall which) should light the top LED, this works as a battery check.

It might be worth your while picking up a cheaper Minox EC and using just to see if you get the bug, if so then go ahead and get the C CLA'd and fixed.

Although my favourite is my IIIs with the B a close second I have an EC which I use purely as it's so simple, small, light, unobtrusive and takes great pics best of all they can be had of Ebay etc for peanuts.

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"However the important hting is that the shutter is still electronically controlled so if theres no power or a feed problem you cannot use the camera regardless of where it's set as the elctronic innards tell the curtains how and when to fire rather than the clockwork mechanism found in earlier model"

 

Not only that, but electronic gadgetry reacts unpredictably under severe weather conditions such as high humidity. Oh well, usually when I buy something it's for keeps, so off it goes to 'dagcamera' ! I'll keep you posted.

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  • 5 weeks later...

You have one of the early Minox C, with 7 seconds (not 10 seconds) long exposure. These are certainly well worth getting checked out by DAG or Andrew Britton. A DAG cleaned C can not be beaten in terms of what you can get out of it. The best camera I have is a complan C that DAG serviced in 2000. Okay very minor differences over other C and LX cameras but there is a something about the way it behaves lacking in either of the Minox C cameras that I have owned since 1974 (purchased new) and 1983.

 

I had a near mint complan C but the battery leak cause the PCB to be useless. Steve Uhrig supplied a donor camera - in parts and Andrew Britton fitted it all together. The camera was purchased by someone wanting to give it as a present to his father, but on seeing it and the results kept it for himself. The repair was much more than the camera, but well worth the effort by everyone concerned.

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Exell silver 6V batteries are easy to get.

 

Minox started to sell LX range with the 4 button cell holder and the EC/ECX with a pair of CR1/N. I have also used the outer casing of an old mercury PX27 with new silver button cells. I have not noticed any problem.

 

The PX28, as used in the 35ML is even harder to come across and the shell, of the brands that I have, a little harder to open up and reseal with fresh button cells.

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