Minor surgery on a Minolta SRT MC-II, how to remove film rewind knob base?

Discussion in 'Classic Manual Cameras' started by richterjw, Apr 13, 2011.

  1. I am doing surgery on a Minolta MC-II in order to (hopefully) remove an obstruction from inside the viewfinder. I have been able to remove all the things hindering removal of the top plate, except for the base to the film rewind knob. There are two notches that seems to indicate you could use a screwdriver to remove it, but that would require removing the rewind post, and I have been unable to discern how to do that. Thanks for any help. JR
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  2. I'd be interested to learn about this too. I have an SRT-MC II that came to me as a freebie along with an SRT-201 that I bought on eBay. It seems to work fine except for a long, narrow rectangular object that is flopping around inside the viewfinder.
     
  3. Craig, that is exactly what is in my viewfinder. JR
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  4. You need a spanner wrench to remove that nut.
     
  5. I've done this before. IIRC you need to fashion a tool to fit the notches on that round plate and something else to grip the film fork, then turn.
    That bit of stuff in the finder is definitely dislodged and floating - it used to be in the bottom of the finder. I hope you get this figured out because aside from that everything about the camera works well.
     
  6. A small pair of needle nose pliers will work in the notches or, a screwdriver should also work, the shaft does not come out only the "nut". The shaft, or rewind post just slides up and down inside the nut, if that makes sense to you. Just make sure the screwdriver is as large or close to as large as the slot that your are inserting it into to avoid any problems with chipping the edge off. It is not that tight, you will be surprised how easily it will come loose. The loose object looks like a brass (or brass colored) shim that fits on the prism, it's been a while since I had one apart but, I am pretty sure once you get to that point it will be obvious where is belongs.
     
  7. Quick update: I was able to get the base-plate and hence the top plate of the camera off, by using two screwdrivers. I attempted to use a pair of needlenose pliers first, but didn't have a pair small enough.
    Tom, you were correct. That piece did turn easily once I was able to apply force on both sides.
    I've had to take a break for a while, but having removed the top plate, I didn't immediately feel that I was any closer to cracking into the prism. JR
     
  8. Yea, now the fun starts, I have been into so many cameras that it is hard to remember which is whcih, if I were looking at it I would remember. Maybe you can post another pic with the top removed. If it is like most SRT models, there is a string that connects the aperture pin to the meter that you need to be careful with but it's not that big a deal either.
     
  9. Per your request, Tom, here are some topless photos of the MC-II. I had a minor-ish meltdown for about the last hour as I knocked the brass part off that holds the tension strings in place, and couldn't figure out how to re-string it. But after countless failures, I think I've got it back together - at least, the shutter cocked/fired and the spool wound/unwound as per normal once I put the top back on. That was stressful.
    I don't know if any of my terminology is correct; I'm just trying to describe things as I see them, and I don't mind being corrected. JR
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  10. Front, Winder Side
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  11. Front, Shutter Button Side
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  12. Camera porn is nothing new here... but topless cameras? :) sorry, couldn't help it - wish I could contribute more than (most likely questionable quality) comic relief. All the best, hope you get to the bottom of it!
     
  13. Anyone attempting this should set the highest asa & B to relieve the tensions on the metering strings. Pry out the red lens index dot w/a needle & remove the exposed screw. Keep the camera upright when pulling off the top & reinstall the retaining ring shown in the 1st photo. This will keep the metering strings in place. If you got them back ok, then consider yourself lucky as its not the easiest job requiring a knowledge of the timing points to set it up correctly.
     
  14. Remember that what you are seeing in the finder on the right is really on the LEFT side of the camera.
     
  15. Peter, your witticism is not unappreciated.
    Don, prior to reading your comment, I had done as you suggested so that my comedy of errors may not be repeated. But I'm not sure the metering strings are exactly right, in that I don't know that they'll render at accurate meter reading. I don't currently have a battery for the camera. Most likely, I end up using a handheld meter.
    Peter, I hadn't thought of that.
    Anyone know the easiest way to gain access to the interior of the viewfinder? There appears to be six screws (two on each side in the front, and one on each side in the back) mount the pentaprism to the frame. Will removing these and dislodging the prism be the best way to go? Thanks. JR
     
  16. As I recall, you need to remove the two screws that hold the spring like retainers that hold the prism in place. Then lift up on the prism and move it the left as viewed from behind so that the wires will move with it. the focus screen is directly under it and the little brass shim or spring will be laying loose in there. I believe the shim or spring lays across the front side of the focus screen nearest the lens mount and I seem to recall having to use glue of some sort to hold it in place but, as I said earlier, I think when you get the prism out of the way it will all become obvious to you. As I recall, the viewfinder will actually stay in place, only the prism need be removed, the piece you are seeing is between the prism and the focus screen.
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  17. Don't touch the other screws or you'll mess up the focusing - just the 2 that hold the prism springs. The others adjust the screen height. Once you get the piece installed, you're biggest problem will be cleaning the prism & the screen. Use a small blower brush + some kimwipes for this. You can use your breath to fog the prism & then use a kimwipe. It can be a tedious job as when you think its ok, something shows up in the viewfinder. Be patient & DON'T use Qtips as they can scratch. Clean hands are a must to avoid fingerprints.
     
  18. Thanks Don, that is what I thought about the other screws but like I said, it's been quite a while since I've had an SRT disassembled. In fact, as I remember, I originally took mine apart do get rid of floating specks in the viewfinder and ended up dislodging the little piece that I am talking about. Took several tries to get it back into place. I've been using Garry's camera ever since. :)
     
  19. Don and Tom, thanks for the guidance. I am eager to get home tonight and attempt what you have described. I will be sure to relay the results. JR
     
  20. Thanks to y'all's guidance, I was successful in removing the shim, though I didn't re-place in its rightful place because it was obvious to me where it belonged. I'm planning to put a play-by-play together in my photoblog, for posterity's sake. I'll post that tomorrow.
    In fact was so pleased with my success with the MC-II that I disassembled/cleaned/and reassembled my SRT 202 in about 40 minutes. Y'all have my deepest gratitude. JR
     
  21. If you're interested, here's my account of events on my blog. Again, many thanks. Now if I can get the lens to focus to infinity, we'll be in grand fashion. JR
     
  22. Thanks, Jeremy, for writing that up. I'll have to give the procedure a try with my SRT-MC II. As far as I can tell, that darned loose shim in the viewfinder is the only thing wrong with it -- unlike the SRT-201 that came with it, which required more work (not performed by me!) to get its shutter working properly at all speeds.
     
  23. Good luck, Craig. It's really somewhat simple, as long as you don't overly-complicate it by messing up other stuff, once you're in there. JR
     

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