Milking a D2X RAW file for all it's worth- LARGE print...

Hello all,

 

I have a number of D2X RAW files that I'd like to print very large - like at least 40x50" maybe even a bit

larger. I'm not looking for tack sharp here, but I'm assuming a camera like the d2x is capable of

producing a DECENT print at that size.

 

What would be the best approach to avoid pixelation if possible? For example, should I upsample in the

RAW dialog or should I do all upsampling with some sort of plugin like genuine fractals? Should I

upsample to 300dpi at target size or will 150dpi suffice? I haven't done anything like this before so any

and all tips are very much appreciated.

 

Also any advice on printing type? paper finish? Lambda? Iris? Epson archival? The print will be almost black

and white (a highly desaturated image). Lots of black. Budget is a concern, but quality is paramount.

 

Thanks so much in advance

You'll get all sorts of contradictory answers here. Why not just ask the lab techs who are going to make your print and find out what type of file they want and how they want it?

What Preston said, plus, what is the viewing distance of this large 50 inch print? I would bet that 150 DPI will be more than fine and definitely anything above 200 DPI is complete overkill for such a large print. In any case what is a D2X Raw? 11 MP image?

I did some 44x66" prints from my D200 a couple months ago that turned out great (I'm a LF shooter, so I'm fairly picky). I worked with the raw file and saved it to TIFF at 300 dpi and uploaded it to Winkflash (I tested a bunch of online printers and like their quality the best). I was amazed at how sharp they were, and I think the cost was about $60. Got it back in about 2 days. I have a feeling they very very slightly printed it off-focus to help hide the grain, but the prints were amazing. I haven't worked with the GF program for upsizing, but I hear good things about it from colleagues who do.

I've taken a RAW>TIFF from my D50 to 36x44 with just Qimage to an Epson 9600 on Enhanced Matte and Lustre and it blew my mind with how it looked. It was a test on how far I could push a 6MP DSLR image. I'm sure there is more work that could've been done to it at various stages to make it even better, but I was happy with it, certainly.

 

allan

It makes little difference. It is the total number of pixels that count.

 

1- Convert your raw file, 8 or 16 bit (your choice)

 

2- In PS CS2 choose a resolution suitable for your printer. Usually 260 or 300.

 

3- Lastly, check the resample box. Pick bicubic smoother.

 

4- THEN, enter your print size. 40" x 60". You will need an Epson 9600 or 9800 to print 44" wide (or similiar wide format printer).

 

Or . . . simply give your converted tiff to a good printer and he will resample it to his printer specs. Viewing distance for a D2x at this resolution would be about 3'.

You're not looking for "tack sharp" from a D2x image enlarged to 40x50 inches - you won't be disappointed, it won't be. This is a little at odds with your desire for paramount quality. Whatever...

 

You should resample (bicubic) to the exact print size and cropping and between 300 and 360 ppi (depending on the ultimate printer). Apply USM sharpening AFTER resampling, for the best results.

 

It doesn't matter that you start with a RAW file. The file you send to the printer should be a plain-vanilla 8-bit JPEG in Adobe RGB or sRGB (check with the vendor).

 

If you want "desaturated, almost black", you are still talking about an RGB (CMYK actually) print rather than black-only. You will need a first rate profile, or trust someone to use ImagePrint or some other RIP on your behalf.

 

If you think large prints aren't examined closely, think again. Go to a museum or art gallery. See how many people practically touch the prints with their nose.

I have used gf will good results, but if you do, check the entire photography at the pixel level, sometimes it creates strange actifacts. Also, something you may have already thought of, is after your get your photography enlarged file and done any editing and adjustments. Crop out a few 4x6 inch sections and print them out on 4x6 paper, areas where there are transition in the scene are best in I think, then view them at the intended distance. If its not going to work or you need to make different adjustments you can before printing the entire photo.