Metering TMAX B&W for Night Photography

<p>I have a few rolls of TMAX P3200 film and plan on going out one night to take some pictures in available/low light. I plan on shooting it as 800 speed. Some with a tripod, some without.<br>

<br />Here's the thing: My Canon AT-1's meter is a little off. It gives good results when I underexpose the film by 1 and 1/2 stops (for example, rating 100 speed as 200, 400 as 800, etc. for daytime photography). <br>

So if I am shooting this TMAX P3200 as 800 at NIGHT, how should I go about metering? Should I take reading from an area that is close to middle gray then close the f-stop down a couple stops? (I don't mean for things like vast cityscapes. I mean for stuff like individual buildings, people, streetlife)<br>

Then how would I go about developing? Given my situation with my Canon's in-camera meter, should I develop for less time or more time than the suggested time?<br>

I'm reading what I've typed here, and it might make little to no sense. Sorry about that. If you need something clarified, let me know. I'm terrible at articulating things. </p>

 

<p>Can you compare your cameras meter with another in low light to verify it is consistently off regardless of light level?</p>

<p>If your meter is reading a stop more exposure in low light as it is in daylight then expose at EI 1600 and process normally or expose at EI 800 and pull development by 20%-25% as that will give better detail in the dimmer lit areas.<br>

Metering technique will play a very important part in the results, avoid bright lights in the frame when metering just as you would if they were the sun.</p>

<p>Experiment with some ISO 400 film at EI 800 and EI 1600 to find out how the meter and metering technique work.</p>

<p>Another thing to keep in mind for low light photography is reciprocity failure. The TMax films are relatively good in this repsect, but even for them do you need to adjust starting at 1 or more seconds of exposure...<br>

So with respect to your question -- determine you true film speed (IE) with normal conditions first (and they depend on your film, camera, shutter, developer, developing technique etc.), and then apply the reciprocity failure corrections as per Kodak's charts or as per other sources. I have tables for TMax 100, but don't use the P3200</p>

<p>Thanks! I may be asking a stupid question here, but is it possible to fix the camera's light meter on the Canon AT-1?</p>

<p>JC,<br>

I had a Canon A-1 and when the 6V battery dropped to 5.6V the meter was off about a stop.You should clean your contacts and check your voltage. I liked TMax 3200 best at 1600 ASA developed in TMax. Metering for what is important to you (close to middle tone helps)and remove your UV or Sky-1a filter ,they will pick up reflections or glare. A fast lens near wide open will give a cool look.<br>

Chris</p>