medium format panoramic with 35mm

<p>I recently saw a picture taken on 35mm film from a mf camera. It had a really interesting look where the image went out to the edge of the film. i have an etrs with 120 and 220 backs. how can i do this? if i get the 35mm panorama back will it expose out to the edge of the film (and include the black squares on the edges of the film)?</p>

<p>Coincidentally, I just tried to scan my first effort on this tonight. I used a Holga. I'm sure it can be done with many setups.</p>

<p>The problem is, with negatives....you have to be able to scan the holes, which rules out many 35mm scanners. Then, holding the negatives in a MF holder is tough. Finally, the black holes screw up the scan. The scanner loses reference for what should be completely orange based. At least it does with my V500 scanner.<br>

<br /> You'd think they'd put in a "lock settings" switch, but nope...Epson decided that in "Professional Mode", it would force an auto-correction to the settings any time the cropping is changed.<br>

<br /> Idiots. :-)</p>

<p>Hi Kevin,<br>

You are looking for a Bronica 135W film back for you Etrs, they can cost anything up to £200.00 and are difficult to find when you want one. KEH or Ebay are the best places to look, this back will achieve what you are lookinf for.<br>

PROBLEM > The winding mechanism is very highly geared and as a consequence you can loose a lot of 35mm films through jams, please be aware of this.</p>

<p>Cheers,</p>

<p>Adrian.</p>

<p>Kevin, the effect you desire is usually achieved for free, with standard 120 backs. See pics and guidelines for how I did it with my Mamiya in this thread: http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00V0ri</p>

<p>Gregory, get yourself a copy of Vuescan - you can lock the scan settings for either just the film base or for both base and image - in fact you can keep them fixed for an entire roll if you wish to have consistency, and save them for later recall.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks Ray and Adrian. That brings up a new question or two. How many shots do I get out of a 35mm roll of film shooting my etrs with a pano back? How do I know how much film to wind onto the take up spool before I start shooting?</p>

<p>Ray,</p>

<p>I tried Vuescan, and its interface is absolutely clunky. I have to lock settings, then repreview, then lock film base, then scan, or something? It'd be nice to know I can get good results out of something before I pay for it.</p>

<p><br />I know, it's probably user deficiency, but really, it shouldn't be that hard. I'm also getting a wierd shadow of the holes that doesn't make sense (see alternate thread)</p>

<p><a href="../film-and-processing-forum/00SBsN">http://www.photo.net/film-and-processing-forum/00SBsN</a></p>

<p>I got 21 shots on my 6x6 Holga from a 36-exp roll. It takes careful diligence, because the amount of shot advancement must be changed with each shot, as the takeup roll gets thicker.<br>

<br />Greg</p>

<p>Save yourself some bother and just create a sprocket-hole mask to use in Photoshop. No-one will see any difference in the finished image. After all, the image isn't really "panoramic" it's just a crop from the middle of the MF frame.</p>

<p>Rodeo,<br>

<br />LOL...so true. The only thought was it's a bit faster and cheaper to develop 35mm. I could put a mask on top of THAT...but that would crop out a lot of image.<br>

I can't say the film is any cheaper, though....I have plenty of 120 and 220 that I bought for less than 35mm, and I need to burn it up.<br>

Plus, it's easier to load and unload the 120/220, and I can use a real camera and not just the Holga.<br>

I just need to see if my current shots are worth saving. It's possible that it's not worth the time.</p>

<p>But... It is so much more fun to do it for real.</p>

<p><img src="http://home.tiscali.nl/qnu/PN/Strip.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="460" /></p>

<p>Oh, wait a minute!</p>

<p>I cheated after all. (Or is Portra 160 NC also a B&W film?)</p>

<p><img src="http://home.tiscali.nl/qnu/PN/Strip700G.jpg" alt="" width="463" height="700" /></p>

<p>Nice job, QG. What was your equipment and scanner?</p>

<p>The first image was actually taken using 35 mm gear (Olympus OM. I forget which camera and lens exactly). <br>

The second on 6x6 (500 C/M with 80 mm Planar lens).<br>

Everything (images and blank film strip) scanned using a Nikon 8000. The strip and 6x6 using the glass carrier.</p>

<p>Got the scanner problem fixed. But the Holga wasn't up to the task. The film wasn't flat, and the sprocket holes caused the film to be rear-exposed. Oops.</p>

<p>So, back to 120 for me. A valiant effort.</p>

<p>Bronica says you will get 23 shots with the 135W back.</p>

<p>http://www.tamron.com/bronica/prod/etrsi_backs.asp</p>

<p>You can also crop a regular frame to the same dimensions provided by the 135W back, and accomplish the same thing. And get 30 out of a roll of 220 or 15 out of a roll of 120.</p>

<p>If you don't crop towards the middle, but towards the bottom and top, cut a dark slide so that it masks off the part you don't want to get exposed, double expose each frame, you'll get double the number of frames per roll.</p>

<p>If you don't crop towards the middle, but towards the bottom and top, cut a dark slide so that it masks off the part you don't want to get exposed, double expose each frame, you'll get double the number of frames per roll.</p>

<p>Slick idea, QG.</p>