Medalist II & Electronic Flash

<p>My Medalist II only has settings for "M" and "F" flash synchronization. Does anyone know if an electronic flash unit can be used with this camera (provided, of course, that the correct connector is used on the camera's flash post)?<br>

Peter Lerro</p>

<p>I've never used a Medalist, but at either setting the flash will be over before your shutter opens. Two suggestions:</p>

<p>(i) Ask around to see if you can get the Flash Supermatic shutter modified, to eliminate the delay. Suggested gurus: (a) Carol Miller at Flutot's ($) (b) S K Grimes ($$$).</p>

<p>(ii) Alternatively you can hack a simple electronic device to impart the necessary delay to your flash firing. You can do this using common Radio Shack-type parts-- Google for the plans if that sounds like a solution.</p>

<p>Mine here is on *X all the time; unless one cocks the M delay.*<br>

<br /> ie it is on the X setting all the time unless the delay synch is cocked; which is the M delay. The cocking affair is called a delay. The cameras shutter button is pressed; the synch contacts close; then about 15 mS later the leaf shutter fires when in M mode The M position is called a delay because the leaf shutter is delayed with respect to the synch contacts. M is used for flashbulbs.To use M you cock the "delay arm". It is caleld a delay because the leaf shutter has a delay geat train that one cocks each time. It has a zzzzzzit added sound.</p>

 

<p>I have a Medalist II; it uses a modification of the self-timer on the original Medalist for flash bulb sync delay. If you don't cock the lever on the timer for M or F flash delay it has zero delay--X synch. I imagine this wasn't mentioned in the instruction booklet because electronic flash was so rare in the '40s. I've used mine with electronic flash many times. You just need an ASA Bayonet to PC cord adapter.</p>

<p>When I had Ken Ruth convert my camera to 120 film, after using it with re-spooled 620 for several years, he also overhauled and modified the shutter. Part of the modification was to remove the flash sync delay mechanism, which made the shutter release MUCH smoother to operate. However this is not necessary to get X sybc.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>*My* Medalist II Here X syncs at all shutter speeds except 1 and Bulb. It has been that way for several decades. Thus it syncs fine at 1/400; but the strobe or even flashbulb doesnt fire at Bulb or 1 second. It is not designed like that; it is just old.</p>

<p>Re "Part of the modification was to remove the flash sync delay mechanism, which made the shutter release MUCH smoother to operate. "</p>

<p>This statement sounds rather odd; since when one is using strobe you do not cock the added delay mechanism; thus there is no added mechanical force. The Medalist II here has a super smooth release. What Ruth is probably doing is removing the slight first click one feels at the start of the shutter buttons travel. If you use a Medalist II alot you push through this; then get to the buttery part. Also removing the delay means the camera is more Goober proof; some person cannot get it on M sync by cocking the delay.</p>

<p>This question about wether a Medalist II has sync for strobe pops up once a year here. In a way it is a bit shocking. I shot weddings with mine with a strobe in the 1960's and 1970's; thus the question is shocking. I suppose in 30 years folks will ask if a canon EOS can have its lenses removed? :)</p>

<p>The Medalist II has the old robust "ASA" flash connector; mine got the added ASA to PC adapter for 25 cents in the 1960's. The camera has a great lens. One can make a better 16x20 than a Blad since one has more area and the lens is as good stopped down a few stops. Folks actually took the Medalist lens and shoehorned them on a Blad 1000F for strobes; before the 500C came out.</p>

<p>It DOE'S seem odd, I admit, and I was surprised to find the lever missing when I got my camera back from Ken, BUT the shutter release IS much smoother now and no longer needs the odd release method, recommended by Kodak, of releasing the shutter with your middle finger while pressing upwards on the base with your thumb. I now use my index finger. like with any other camera.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Many thanks for everyone for your resonses. After some experimenting with an electronic flash - as both Kelly & Robert advised, i.e., not cocking the synch lever, it definitely would appear that there is zero flash delay when that lever is not cocked. (And I might add that this appears to be the case right up to the top shutter speed.) I further agree with Robert regarding the Medalist II instruction manual. My manual is dated, 3-46, and although there's information on the use of both "M" or "F" synch, and the amount of delay that each imparts, there is no information on what the delay, if any, might be when the lever is not cocked. Peter Lerro<br>

PS: I just fell compelled to add this small aside: - Since first becoming aware of the Medalist's history, I've come across numerous aesthetic criticisms about this camera - too heavy; it is awkward to handle; it has an unpleasant appearance; etc. Well, I always refused to argue the pro's and con's of such critiques, but rather I prefer to dwell on those design attributes that truly contribute photographic quality - remarkable Ektar optics that are the equal to any either made "back then" or today; a very sound reliable shutter system, a parallax-correcting range-finder/viewfinder system - just to name the most obvious. But when Kodak designed and built my Medalist II, they provided a plus that's so imported to antique camera collectors/users/lovers of like us - a durability and a longevity that permits to still enjoy these camera after all of these years. My Medalist is 64 years old, and it's still a "rock."</p>

 

<p>Robert; I never even heard about the Medalist having a shutter issue until Photo.net; after I used one for many decades.<br>

Thus it being an issue is extremely strange; realliy bizzare; since I used one professionally when one Could get pro Vericolor in 620 and gasoline was 18 to 56 cents. If somebody had told me this in the 1960's or 1970's I would think they never used the camera; or were insane or were a con artist.<br>

Maybe it is a loss of craft how cameras work. In cameras that take more force you always brace more. maybe it doesnt hapen with folks who jerk the camera alot.<br>

It is like that on a folder too. If I had my camera at Ruths' I would probably sue them I they removed the delay; since I still use flashbulbs.<br>

Even If I only use flashbulbs on a blue moon I would never have the delay removed; since here it is not a problem; I can hand hold at super low speeds</p>

<p>There's no real shutter "issue" Kelly. I delayed having my camera converted to 120 until it needed a CLA anyway.Had the camera not stopped working, I'd have continued to re-spool film onto 620 spools. Ken Ruth offered a shutter overhaul for an additional charge. I decided to spring for that as well as the 120 conversion and a general CLA. While I was surprised that he removed the delay mechanism [and the interlock that prevented shutter release with the lens collapsed], I was delighted at the added smoothness of the shutter release. I probably should have asked more questions, since I didn't know about his removing parts [and I might have skipped the extra work if I knew that]. Still, while it worked fine BEFORE the overhaul it works even better now IMO . I'd gotten quite used to bracing the camera and could easily hand-hold it for 1/25th second exposures before the change; I just like it better now. The shutter overhaul was certainly NOT necessary and I'd never suggest it's being done on a Medalist that didn't have to have other repairs. YRMV.</p>

<p>Hi all-- apologies for perpetuating any misinformation-- I didn't know the thing could simply be turned off! Sounds like Robert has good advice for this problem.</p>

Paramount Cords can custom make ASA to PC-female cords. Cheaper than buying the old adapters on ebay.